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Is there finally an accurate fuel sending unit?

themechanic

Oklahoma is OK
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I just watched the latest video on Dead Dodge Garage about Jamie's 68 Dodge Charger.

Anywho, near the end he says he's about to install and test one of the new fuel sending units that are supposed to be accurate.

Has anyone already installed one? If so, how did it work?
 
Even with my unit reading correctly within the specified ohm range of the unit, it was still off, even with digital regulator and new gauge. Put in a Meter Match and now have a gauge that reads full when full, and 3/4 when 3/4 empty
 
I guess you guys aren't living right. I bought a stainless tank and 3/8 sending unit from Vans Auto when building my Roadrunner, and the gage reads just fine.
Just luck, I guess.
 
Even with my unit reading correctly within the specified ohm range of the unit, it was still off, even with digital regulator and new gauge. Put in a Meter Match and now have a gauge that reads full when full, and 3/4 when 3/4 empty
I bought a Meter Match and it will be the next thing I work on.
 
I see the readings of the fuel gauge as suggestions rather than gospel.
Looking inside gas tanks, I have seen sending units that bottom out 1 1/2” from the tank floor so the E line often means nothing. Cheap reproductions that have short arms with floats that never get close to the floor, filter socks that don’t touch the floor either…. Add to that the fact that the OEM senders reading an elliptical curve and aftermarket senders that read in a linear fashion. Full to 3/4 moves at a different rate than 3/4 to 1/4 and 1/4 to empty moves about the same rate as full to 3/4.
I have used two different aftermarket senders in my red car. Same results as described.
 
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I see the readings of the fuel gauge as suggestions rather than gospel.
Looking inside gas tanks, I have seen sending units that bottom out 1 1/2” from the tank floor so the E line often means nothing. Cheap reproductions that have short arms with floats that never get close to the floor, filter socks that don’t touch the floor either…. Add to that the fact that the OEM senders reading an elliptical curve and aftermarket senders that read in a linear fashion. Full to 3/4 moves at a different rate than 3/4 to 1/4 and 1/4 to empty moves about the same rate as full to 3/4.
I have used two different aftermarket senders in my red car. Sane results as described.
Me, too. But, there’s rumors that they've made a more accurate sending unit, which is what this thread is about. Hopefully, someone will chime in and let us know if the rumors are true.

Meanwhile, I'll just fiddle with the Gas Matcher.
 
When I did my 68 coronet fuel tank I also did aftermarket gauges and the fuel gauge was programmable. I know that doesn’t work for factory gauges, but just thought I would throw that out there.
 
I have heard more than once that Vans had good stuff. I have not purchased one so I do not know. But the one I bought from summit was wrong wrong wrong. Bought a meter match and kinda fixed it. I need to rewire the meter match with better wire than what I initially used.
 
I bought mine from YearOne ($47.74) in June 2021 it has been working great since. When full gauge is pegged beyond F then when on E there is still 3 or 4 gallons in the tank. And it will drop below E if your not paying attention (lol). Full range!
 
If you have problems getting it calibrated, call them and speak to Chris, he will walk you thru calibrating it over the phone.. The most accurate method without pulling sending unit is a full tank and using Method 2. (I'll let him explain the procedure so I don't get people confused)
 
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I installed Meter Match. I adjusted the sender so the sock is right at the bottom, played with float arm. Spent a full day putting fuel in and out of the tank and adjusting the Meter Match. Best result I got is the gauge reads 3/4 when the tank is full, completely empty when it gets to the “E”. Better than it was, your results may vary.
 
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