Is this right? Removing ball joint.

[TT from NH]

I'm removing the front suspension on my 68 Coronet and have removed most everything but am struggling with removing the ball joints. I am using a heavy hammer and pickle fork to separate the ball joints from the steering knuckle and nothing seems to be moving. What am I missing? I have loosened the top 1-59/64 ball joint nut as much as possible on both sides; now they just turn but don't come out further -- are they supposed to screw off completely? The FSM simply states, "On Coronet models, remove upper ball joint nut and remove stud from steering knuckle using Tool 3954." What is Tool C-3964?

Help!

 

[Charles Cook]

Screw the ball joint back in so you don’t damage the threads. Take that hammer in the photo and wack the hell out of the area marked with green arrow. It will drop right out

 

[snakeoil24]

Threads look already damaged might need new upper control arms

 

[dadsbee]

You need pressure on the stud and one good wack.....
1969 Dodge Dart Swinger clean up

 

[Runner 68]

Threads look already damaged might need new upper control arms

Not to mention the UCA itself. Has had the **** beat out of it on the tip.

 

[Lefty71]

A hammer in the wrong place, and heat on the wrong thing have sold lots of car parts...............

 

[R/T Boy 67]

You started off on the wrong foot. Release the taperd stud, and then unscrew the ball joint. As noted above, the control arm is damaged.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Hind site is 20/20, you went about this in the wrong order. Now you're going to be replacing parts you didn't need to.
1. Loosen nut on upper balljoint under upper spindle mount. Take it out about 5 or 6 turns, enough that you can see a 3 or 4 thread gap between nut and spindle
2. Hit spindle with large hammer where it is marked by a green arrow above. The pressure of the torsion bar will separate it easily.
3. Next, repeat with lower ball joint.
It separates easily but you will need to pull down on the spindle or drum assembly to see it is separated because the torsion bar presses down on it.
4. Take the pressure off of the torsion bar by unscrewing the adjusting bolt out until the torsion bar no longer puts force onto it.
5. Remove upper and lower ball joint nuts, tie rod nut and remove the spindle and brake assembly.
6. Unscrew upper ball joint.

 

[WileE]

Hind site is 20/20, you went about this in the wrong order. Now you're going to be replacing parts you didn't need to.
1. Loosen nut on upper balljoint under upper spindle mount. Take it out about 5 or 6 turns, enough that you can see a 3 or 4 thread gap between nut and spindle
2. Hit spindle with large hammer where it is marked by a green arrow above. The pressure of the torsion bar will separate it easily.
3. Next, repeat with lower ball joint.
It separates easily but you will need to pull down on the spindle or drum assembly to see it is separated because the torsion bar presses down on it.
4. Take the pressure off of the torsion bar by unscrewing the adjusting bolt out until the torsion bar no longer puts force onto it.
5. Remove upper and lower ball joint nuts, tie rod nut and remove the spindle and brake assembly.
6. Unscrew upper ball joint.

Yup.... that's why I've always recommended sourcing the FSM for the inexperienced.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

Harbor freight tool I use alot- get the pitman arm puller too.
You can tack weld those ball joints if the threads are bad, I have done it and didnt die.

 

[TT from NH]

Thanks everyone for your insights. The UCA was already beat up before I started (I haven't touched it except for putting the pickle fork under it and banging on it) so I appreciate knowing it needs to be replaced.

 

[Daves69]

FWIW, I always try to back up the work with a heavier hammer before smacking it........

 

[TT from NH]

FWIW, I always try to back up the work with a heavier hammer before smacking it........
View attachment 1871249

Dave, I admire your graphics capability Thanks!

 

[TT from NH]

Since I need to replace my upper control arms, where would you recommend I shop for them? I'm guessing you all have some thoughts

 

[Runner 68]

Since I need to replace my upper control arms, where would you recommend I shop for them? I'm guessing you all have some thoughts

Many options out there both stock repops and high performance tubular adjustables. I went with QA1 tubulars on my bird. The stock design is very solid but most are made out of Chinesium theses days.
It all depends on what your end goal is and what your budget is. Do a little web surfing and you'll see what I mean.