I've Had It With FAST EZ EFI

General Mopar Tech Discussions

  1. hsorman

    hsorman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    As I sit here and type I am so frustrated I am ready to go ballistic.

    Some of you may be familiar with my restoration thread: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?65096-Hawk-Rod-The-Restoration

    I have tried everything in my power to make this car really nice. I have planned and worked my a$$ off to get this thing ready to do a once in a lifetime trip across the country starting in September. But as I sit here, I am getting close to needing to cancel the trip. Why? Because I have spent 1000s of dollars on a FAST EZ EFI 2.0 system.

    I purchased this system and I have taken GREAT CARE to install it exactly per the instructions. I spent the entire winter months integrating together the FAST system, a MSD 6A box, the Classic Air system and an upgraded more powerful alternator with a split power system to safely power stuff under the dash. When I started up my car, NOT ONE electrical connection was wrong! I say that not to brag, but to try and show that I am not some hack that threw this system in there without reading the instructions.

    The issue I have is that the computer will not learn. I continue to get IRM (Ignition Reliability Monitor) counts that indicate noisy signals. In numerous calls to FAST tech support, I have been told to do any number of things to reduce noise:
    * Keep all ignition wires away from the FAST wiring. Well, I say, the Mopar coil and distributor are in the same area, and the wires all run along the passenger valve cover. Too bad, that's an issue. So I had to reroute the distributor FAST wiring down the driver side valve cover. No change
    * I wrap the distributor wires in aluminum foil and ground that. No change
    * Power the MSD box off the starter lug. No change
    * Ground the MSD box to he engine. No change
    * Power the switched FAST control wire from 12 Volts directly. No Change.
    * Verify spark plug wires and spark plugs are resistor type. They are
    * Then I am told all car wiring needs to be at least 6 inches way from any FAST wiring. REALLY?!?!?! Try THAT under a dashboard after you have built the whole car.

    I have gone on-line and tried to research the issue. Unfortunately, I have seen many posts from people with the same problems. Some have finally been so frustrated they tore the system out of the car and put a carb back on it.

    Finally, I read a post that newer FAST ECUs (the "brains" of the system) have a noise filter built in. Looks like these might be units built later in 2014? Mine was built Feb 2014 so I'm sure it has no filter. Of course, the techs that I have talked to have never said a word about this. I am constantly told that essentially it is my problem due to wiring noise, and they have sent me on wild goose chases that take lots of time and effort to try; all with no results.

    I am FED UP. Basically, if I can't solve this issue by next weekend, I likely have to call off the trip of a lifetime that I have planned and worked so hard to make happen. I've been working on putting this together for over 20 months...

    Bottom line is I cannot recommend the FAST system to anyone. Don't do it.

    Thanks for letting me vent.

    Hawk
     
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    • CoronetDarter

      CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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      Damn Hawk, that really sucks. Very disappointing to hear, considering FAST was one of the pioneers in off-the-shelf EFI systems you'd think they would have the noise suppression resolved by now.
      Is there any chance FAST will exchange your ECU for a later model?

      I wish you all the luck in figuring things out. Us West Coasters are looking forward to meeting you.
       
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      • Hemi Rebel

        Hemi Rebel Well-Known Member

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        • hsorman

          hsorman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          I'm going to keep trying. I will be on the phone with them again on Monday, and will be asking (demanding as much as I can) for noise suppression. My buddy and I are going through every part of the installation to look for anything that I may need to remedy. Not sure if I can switch back to a carb at this point, but I'll keep all options open...
           
        • RT K_line

          RT K_line Well-Known Member

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          Man that really sucks, I was looking at that same unit for my car, I guess it's a good thing I haven't gone that route. Thanks for the heads up.
           
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          • Dako

            Dako Well-Known Member

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            Here I been wondering if efi would have been a better choice...glad I went with the Eddy AVS 650.
             
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            • snakeoil24

              snakeoil24 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Twisted pair wiring is as old as Henry Ford. What might help is getting an oscilloscope to measure noise levels. Then I would reach out to the head of Engineering at Fast and speak to the top dog and stop wasting your time with telephone 10.00 an hour phone techs. If you can not get the Engineer on the phone then it is time to Write the Certified letter tot he President of Fast. also carbon a copy to the onsumer affairs department in your State and california or where ever. The Screaming wheel gets answers! If your still not satisfied I would be interested in a bargain on the system.
               
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              • GetX'd

                GetX'd Making Life Great Again!

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                Can't offer much but my regrets for your issues with FAST. I've been following your thread and know you're ready to take off cross country. I hope they can give you some solace on Monday. Good luck!
                 
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                • kiwigtx

                  kiwigtx International Mod Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Sorry to hear that Hawk.
                  As Snakeoil said above, maybe if the 'key' wiring can be swapped out for a quality Belden type twisted pair cable (with drain and foil) that should take a lot of the noise induced away. It's the type of cable typically used in Industrial Instrumentation installations, and has been around for decades.
                  I sure hope that FAST come through for you....this really sucks.
                   
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                  • whosyurdaddy

                    whosyurdaddy Well-Known Member

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                    Another member on here had the same problem ( no communication ) so he sent his computer back and they replaced it and I think it solved that problem for him . I'm not sure what motor your building but did you know you need a minimum of 8-9 inches of vacuum to make this system work properly , ya they don't advertise that info . I've been told a lot of the good people left the company a while back . Good luck and I hope you make the trip .
                     
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                    • gtxno1

                      gtxno1 Well-Known Member

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                      I see that you have gone through great trouble unfortunately without identifying the source you will not know how to fix it, a simple fix could be to install a filter or capacitor on the on the coil also it could actually be coming from the alternator most overlooked place do you have a friend with an occilliscope go over all powers and grounds and identify whats causing the unwanted rf signal and repair it you should be good
                       
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                      • 747mopar

                        747mopar Well-Known Member

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                        Man that sucks but don't give up on your dream, get really pissed off, have a drink and kick the shit out of something and get back after it! I'd do like snakeoil24 suggest and go straight to the top, explain the situation and how their product is ruining your plans and demand an answer. Fuel Injection is to expensive to not do it's job and if they've came up with an answer (upgrade) that's admitting that there was a problem so don't stop until they make it right. I've seen your work and I know the type of attention you put into things so I doubt your doing anything wrong. Good luck
                         
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                        • hsorman

                          hsorman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          Thanks for all the replies.

                          So the RPM signal to the ECU is a shielded cable with a dielectric and shielding around the core. It comes from the FAST distributor, which is ultimately the source the system uses for RPM. I have spent most of my time with this, and I have completely isolated this line all the way back to the ECU. I even wrapped that in foil and grounded it to add additional protection.

                          I asked the tech if there was any way to understand on what input the system is detecting the noise. He said no. The XFI system has graphs and logs where you can perhaps see a spike. The EZ system does not have this capability.

                          I wish I had access to some kind of battery powered oscilloscope, as maybe this could help me look at the signal coming in from the distributor. Problem is, I do not. The error codes only seem to trigger while driving, so I would likely need to view/log it while driving. I have checked and rechecked everything I can, trying to be open minded about anything bogus that I did. I went through and highlighted the entire installation manual and rechecked all the key wiring instructions.

                          My 383 is stock, so I have tons of vacuum at idle. That doesn't appear to be the issue. As a matter of fact, the ECU has a number of error detection capabilities for the inputs. None of those are showing any issues. The ECU is not triggering error codes besides the IRM counts.

                          So Monday is when I need to raise hell with the FAST folks and work towards some answers...
                           
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                          • snakeoil24

                            snakeoil24 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                            Disconnect the Alternator belt and see what happens.
                             
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                            • adk-roadrunner

                              adk-roadrunner Well-Known Member

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                              I installed the edelbrock E street efi on my car and couldn't be happier I had it installed and running like a top in a few days. I do know their system can have the same issues with noise I know they recommend the resister type plug wires and also how you get you tach signal can make a huge difference as well. I believe I went off the negative side of my coil but can remember right now I can take a look tomorrow. Not sure if that would make a difference for you as your system also controls your timing correct?
                               
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                              • hsorman

                                hsorman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                Interesting, and quick and easy to check. I'll try that in the morning. Thanks

                                - - - Updated - - -

                                Correct, I am currently using the system to control timing. FAST EZ EFI can also run off of a stock alternator, be it points or Chrysler Electronic ignition and then the system can get a signal from the negative side of the coil through a module that cleans up the signal and feeds it to the computer.

                                I do have resistor type wires and spark plugs.

                                Glad your system worked well for you - nice to near folks are having some luck with these...
                                 
                              • HEMI-ITIS

                                HEMI-ITIS STREETER on LI FBBO Gold Member

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                                • snakeoil24

                                  snakeoil24 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                  Rich nedbal is a very smart guy
                                   
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                                  • 5wndwcpe

                                    5wndwcpe Huge Member FBBO Gold Member

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                                    This would be my suggestion as well.

                                    On my Dodge diesel the alternator was putting out enough noise to affect the trans (shifting in and out of o/d). I wrapped the output wire in aluminum foil and the problem disappeared. Yes, it's quite the hillbilly fix but it sure was cheap.

                                    Sorry to hear of your troubles mate.
                                     
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                                    • mopar 3 B

                                      mopar 3 B Well-Known Member

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                                      I had an erratic misfire in my 1999 Advenger and fixed it by replacing the tie rod end. Interference can come from almost anywhere and doesn't have to be electrical.
                                       
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