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just a little off the back and sides please

eldubb440

more miracles than Jesus
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:D


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It'll grow back:rolleyes:
 
Your one talented guy

Steve, this might be the 15th or so 68-70 I've reconstructed, it's to the point where I can almost do it with my eyes closed.

this one believe it or not is the most solid I've seen in years. The rear window leaked at some point and rotted the trunk, but everything else is rock solid. The quarters weren't even rusty, just banged up and full of mud.

no undercoat on this one.....everything you see is just surface rust, it'll clean right up with a little blasting
 
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bracing is over rated........lol.......I'll have all the welding done before it goes on the rotisserie
Never had one down that far on the rear but did do one with a complete front end....frame rails and box. No bracing needed on that one.
 
Never had one down that far on the rear but did do one with a complete front end....frame rails and box. No bracing needed on that one.

I do brace up certain things, mainly convertibles...... tough to see, but I have the door openings braced on this camaro, and diagonal braces from the windshield frame to the door jams........ I've never seen the need to brace up a hardtop, but I never put a cut up car on a rotisserie either

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"Smacked her ***" just a little hard there @eldubb440 ? Same observation, no bracing. Good shape, inner rockers, wwells, etc... look solid. Your buddy looks like he's looking for his gf
 
I dunno, but he did mine, and it drives straight and true like a new car. Luck? Skill? Who knows, but it sure seems like he knows what he is doing!!!
From this:
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To this:
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To this (Pikes Peak while diving it across country):
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God given talent!! "DOCTOR" of auto body work, chop it up with no braces then surgically stitch it together to look like THAT, SWEET RIDE @hsorman ! YUP, TALENT!
 
Cool pics, I am about to do the same exact thing so its good to see the order of what you have. Thanks a ton.

RGAZ
 
blasted and epoxy primed accessible areas......weld areas were masked off from epoxy then brushed with weldable primer


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still have a little minor trimming and hammer/dolly work on the inner wheelhouses where trunk floor attaches..... I'll get to it when wheels are off
 
eldubb440, great post!!! Did you replace any metal (besides the trunk pan which I assume you replaced)? Where did you get your metal? I see you took off the quarter panel skins, rear cross rail, floor extensions, trunk floor reinforcement set, trunk pan. What did I miss? (I probably need to purchase everything I mentioned since my stuff is rotten pretty bad and banged up.)

In what order did you reassemble the pieces? And novice question: is all the sheet metal welded on? (I'm pretty sure the answer is yes but I've never attempted what you've done 15 times ....)

Thanks! Terry
 
eldubb440, great post!!! Did you replace any metal (besides the trunk pan which I assume you replaced)? Where did you get your metal? I see you took off the quarter panel skins, rear cross rail, floor extensions, trunk floor reinforcement set, trunk pan. What did I miss? (I probably need to purchase everything I mentioned since my stuff is rotten pretty bad and banged up.)

In what order did you reassemble the pieces? And novice question: is all the sheet metal welded on? (I'm pretty sure the answer is yes but I've never attempted what you've done 15 times ....)

Thanks! Terry

I'm on light duty this week with low back issues, and bored off my ***; so I have plenty of time for some detailed advice...... my pain is your gain

only skins are available for the 70 coronets, but I prefer to replace the whole panel if available....anyway, first thing you need to do before cutting is bolt on the trunk lid and line it up as close to perfect on all 3 sides as you can; with the emphasis on the front edge. Most of these cars will also need the panel behind the rear window replaced. This isn't very difficult, but aligning the trunk lid to the original will help locate the replacement. it can be done first; leave the deck lid bolted in place either way.

once I get bad metal cut away, I prefer sandblasting to clean up the bones........ get it in primer and weld through as above

I will end this post with a few pics that are pretty much self explainatory........ new metal is AMD and the areas to be welded are cleaned to bare steel and coated with weld thru...... I recommend "Bloxide".......... any holes are drilled first and burrs removed...... you can weld the pan to the rails and rear crossmember, but do NOT weld to the inner wheels house at this point; as the whole thing will be able to be "jacked" up to the "happy place" which is not determined at this point...... there will be another post to follow this


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