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Just another 505 build

If you love fast which is why were here you have to see Funny Cars go 330 mph in a 1000' in Sonoma after the sun sets. I live for that annual Friday night qualifying. Never disappoints. Finals today.....
 
Well no racing for me today... Got trans fluid pissing out of the center of the bellhousing.

Its not over filled, I did however over fill it when I first fired it up a few weeks ago.

Change out front pump seal and torque converter seal?

**EDIT: Just a thought, the converter wasn't centered properly before. Is there a chance that it took out the front pump?
 
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You may have spun a pump bushing and it moves out to the seal and causes a leak. As long as the convertor was free with engine bolted to the trans you probably didn't hurt the pump gears. Good luck!
 
Got everything fixed and finally made it out to the track, fastest was 11.39 @ 117mph just spinning! Having a hard time getting it to hook. Also where do you guys have your transbrakes set at? Also thank you all for the help, appreciate it!
image.jpeg
 
Schober "the Car looks great"

Maybe refresh my memory, build details car trans suspension etc.
so I/we don't have to go back & reread the whole thing...

anyway;
did you scale the car ?
what's the weight distribution ?
do you get weight transfer/lift ?
what air pressure in the rear tires/slicks ?
what tires slicks ? drag radials ? {refresh out memory, sizes PSI etc.}
does the front end have play & how much ?
do you need or use ballast ?
what type of suspension ? front & rear, shocks etc. {refresh our memory}
what are you leaving the line at ? {I assume on a trans-brake by previous question}
what converter stall speed ? {refresh our memory}
was the track prepped at all ? or was it just a test & tune ?
shocks & settings ? {refresh our memory}

sorry if I ask too many questions,
need more details, refreshers
maybe we can help,
we have some good smart experienced people here...
 
Schober Motorsports said:
Got everything fixed and finally made it out to the track, fastest was 11.39 @ 117mph just spinning! Having a hard time getting it to hook. Also where do you guys have your transbrakes set at? Also thank you all for the help, appreciate it!View attachment 355474
Click to expand...
To go 10.60 you need a 1.45 60 foot...that is first step...to then to end up on that same run at 10.60 (with a 3650-3700lb car you must have at least 650HP. If you cut a 1.45 60 foot (1st atep) and then don't go 10.60 you are NOT making 650HP....and I believe, from my own personal recent experiences, that is a fact.
.
 
Budnicks said:
Schober "the Car looks great"

Maybe refresh my memory, build details car trans suspension etc.
so I/we don't have to go back & reread the whole thing...

anyway;
did you scale the car ?
what's the weight distribution ?
do you get weight transfer/lift ?
what air pressure in the rear tires/slicks ?
what tires slicks ? drag radials ? {refresh out memory, sizes PSI etc.}
does the front end have play & how much ?
do you need or use ballast ?
what type of suspension ? front & rear, shocks etc. {refresh our memory}
what are you leaving the line at ? {I assume on a trans-brake by previous question}
what converter stall speed ? {refresh our memory}
was the track prepped at all ? or was it just a test & tune ?
shocks & settings ? {refresh our memory}

sorry if I ask too many questions,
need more details, refreshers
maybe we can help,
we have some good smart experienced people here...
Click to expand...

Sorry for getting back way way late to you guys! Just got back down to Florida from leave and just getting back in the swing of things.

Weighed car @ Route 66 scale - 3550 w/ me in it
Not sure on weight distribution
Got about 6 inch of front end travel
Running 18 psi in Pro Bracket Radials - 29.5-10.5/15
Front suspension all stock, replaced all bushings etc
Rear suspension cal tracs w/ double adjustable QA1 shocks
Trans brake was originally set at 4K, felt it spin. Went to 3K w/o any change. I will explain on that more further down the line.
Converter stalls somewhere around 4800-5000
Track was prepped, they do an awesome job
Shocks - 18 settings w/ compression and rebound. Played with those settings a ton w/o any change. Which leads me to my next point.

Last test n tune I had it out, trans brake would not hold the car. Would hold at idle but as soon as I floored it and the 2 step came on it would roll though the beams. Next pass I decided to foot brake it and I had no first gear. You give it gas and it doesn't go anywhere as soon as you give it some gas. Same thing for reverse (Tried to back up into trailer and would not go up ramps). It has the same feeling as if it has low trans fluid in it. 2nd and 3rd gear work without an issue. Now that feeling is the same feeling I have been working with this whole time which makes me think that the car wasn't actually spinning and that it has been trans problems this whole time. Here are a few videos, one is of outside using trans brake and other is in car footbraking it. Tell me what you guys think. Have already talked to my trans guy and he's going to send another valve body out my way and see what happens. Was thinking that possibly the rear band came out of adjustment?

Also I am doing a little write up about my wiring in the car. I know Mike is interested in some pictures and info on that.


 
When I was looking for kits to wire up my car I turned to my buddy Mike who has also used this kit without any issues. This kit is made from K+R Performance, the "Super Duty" kit. Comes with all the wiring you need plus a huge laminated diagram on how to wire your car based off different ignition boxes, if your using a delay box etc. Diagram is extremely helpful as well as the staff at K+R. They have asked not to post their diagram as they do not want people copying off it. I did have an issue with my original switch panel, called them up and they had another one on the way same day. Awesome company to work with, I would recommend them to anyone.

Now everything is centered around the circuit board that has fuses as well as LED's built into every circuit which then go to the posts that you hook the wires up to the appropriate function (Water Pump, Fuel Pump, etc) One of the cool features (As pictured) is that if you have a fuse go out, just glance at the board and look for an LED that isn't on. If the LED above that fuse is out, then its the fuse. Easy to identify since we all know electrical problems will drive you nuts. A few other things to note is that their is a AUX circuit that you can use for whatever. I use mine for the headlights. Another thing to note is the INT light button, I have mine wired up to my dome light as well as little LED's that are built into the bottom of the switch board. Last thing I loved about it is that the neutral safety switch is built into part of the board. Make it much easier to wire up in my opinion.

This kit by K+R is so well done and includes damn near everything you need to wire up your car (Minus the 1-0 gauge wire from the battery in the trunk) Here is a ton of pictures that I took over the car, if you guys have any questions feel free to ask. K+R helped me out a bunch and can't thank them enough.

Now for the MSD box, its a 6AL-2 Programmable Box. Locked out distributor, and now I do all retarding via laptop. You can program Trans Brake RPM, Burnout RPM, and Rev Limiter. You can also map out your own timing. Say distributor is locked at 35 degrees. I can set it as retarded as I would like and the box will automatically retard timing based off what I set it at. At start up I have it set to 15 degrees at RPM under 500 to aid in starting 11-1 505, I have had no issues since doing this. There are more features built into the box, but I haven't used it/ had no need to. Awesome box, a bit on the expensive side though.

If you guys have any questions about anything feel free to message me or else post on here.

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thanks for the rundown , especially on your experience with the MSD programmable box

Tex
 
Well guys, more bad luck today... Was draining the fluid out of the pan today to open everything up and see whats up. Fluid reaks of burnt clutch. Definitely going to need to take it back out again. Thats the end of my season.

I tell you guys what, the more issues I have with this trans, the more I start thinking about going with a powerglide and never look back...
 
Schober Motorsports said:
Well guys, more bad luck today... Was draining the fluid out of the pan today to open everything up and see whats up. Fluid reaks of burnt clutch. Definitely going to need to take it back out again. Thats the end of my season.

I tell you guys what, the more issues I have with this trans, the more I start thinking about going with a powerglide and never look back...
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with a TF if there're built right. The one in my 10 sec dart has been in there for years. Street/strip never any issues. Same with the roadrunner. I drive that car almost everyday, and it gets driven hard. It's 4000# with me in it and has been 10.95 through the mufflers. You Just need someone to help you that knows what they are doing. In your car you should gets years out of one if built and driven correctly.

Hell, DVM runs one in a low 9 b body with very little maint.
 
There isn't much better than a 727. Watch & see what durability of a Glide is, not so good. In order to have one hold up for any length of time, you need all of the fanciest Glide parts available. Call John Cope or one of the other Mopar specialists for a 727.
 
The 727 front leaks are likely a wrecked front pump bushing, if that hasn't been replaced. Any "out of round or mis-alignment" condition will wreck that pretty quick. When time allows you want to check that out & make sure the front pump mounting bore is centered with the crank centerline. Offset dowls ar e available.
 
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