K-Frame Restoration Process

71SandbugCharger

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My son (mostly), and I are disassembling the K-Frame and I’m wondering is it best to sand blast the whole thing, or figure out a way to de-grease and clean it up, then paint and replace rubbers, etc…?

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T2R9

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I took mine to the local machine shop and had it hot tanked.
 

Sam69sat

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I would use a spray bottle of super clean or simple green and a wire brush. Then hose it off with a pressure washer or haul it to the car wash to spray it off.
 

R413

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De-grease it and see what you’ve got. when they are covered in grease they don’t rust or get many coats of cheap rattle can paint on them.
 

eldubb440

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De-grease it and see what you’ve got. when they are covered in grease they don’t rust or get many coats of cheap rattle can paint on them.

even if not rusty, sandblasting eliminates sanding all the nooks and crannies for adhesion purposes.....for me, it's just easier to blast it
 

dangina

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What I did (when I did this) was got it sandblasted and then welded up some of the seams, welded in pieces where the powersteering box sits, Welded a big washer where the front strut rods comes through like what they did on the firm feel kits, (They now sell the pieces you need for cheap) here:Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

then when all that was done got the whole thing powdercoated in black

Reinforcing the kframe is a great idea if you plan of upgrading the powersteering to a boregson unit down the road as they put more stress on the mounts(The first boregson version box I ended up busting the box but the kframe held up to the stress so well worth the investment into doing this while your at this stage. Also Buy the lower control arm reinforcement plates while your at it as well)
 

ckessel

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I had mine tanked twice before I started the work on it. There was still goo in the seams around the perimeter. If you want low budget, oven cleaner works great. Just keep it away from painted items and skin. When I was doing the work on mine, I ended up having to take the hot wrench[ torch] to the inner areas and just burn out the remainder of the goo. After that, all was fine. I think the Cali regulations have made the machine shops use a much weaker solution in the tanks. Big surprise! If you want some ideas about reinforcing/improving the frame, you can see what I did for mine.
Updating the Super Street Mopar
 

Tony Tee

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Applied de-greaser pressure washed it and sandblasted it. Then added all the reinforcements and gussets to the weak areas...cleaned up the factory booger welds. Then I sprayed it with Eastwoods chassis black.
 

Eric Pearson

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I blasted mine with an Eastwood sand blaster epoxy primer Ed it and then sprayed it with gloss black urethane paint.

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Hemi2Much

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I took mine to a shop just down the road from me that does sandblasting and powder coating.
$150 for both sandblasting and powder coating and had it back in 5 days.

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matthon

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I cut mine open and welded the front of the LCA tube to the k-frame from the inside, as it's not attached there.
Not sure why the kits include a washer for the rear hole but leave the front hanging.
 

ckessel

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I brain farted on part of your info request. For sure replace all of the wear items. Ball joints x4, tie rod ends x4, upper control arm bushings x4, lowers x2, idler arm, Pittman arm, sway bar bushings if so equipped, strut rod bushings. Have power steering? Is it leaking? Take care of it now while you have great access. Stay far away from parts store rebuilds! After you have the crud cleaned off, look for cracks, damage especially for prior Dukes Of Hazard usage. As in unauthorized ditch jumping of mom and dads car in a prior life. Have a look at the tubes going through the k that the lower control arm shafts go through. One area of known issues. Cracked welds, wallowed out etc. Matthon mentioned something I did on mine too. Cut pieces out so I could get some weld on the backside of those tubes. I got my front end parts from Firm Feel including greasable lower control arm bushings and shafts. The shafts came with thick flat washers for the nut end of the shaft. I welded those washers to the k and then found some structural washers from Fastenal that would fit around those. Welded them together. If you don't have sway bars, good time to add. Also since its all apart, you should consider replacing the 51 year old torsion bars and rear leaf springs. Thats up to you.
 

71SandbugCharger

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I took mine to a shop just down the road from me that does sandblasting and powder coating.
$150 for both sandblasting and powder coating and had it back in 5 days.

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Nice! My son has a friend whose dad is a mechanic, and has supposed connections. My son asked, and get this…. $3,500 to sand blast and powder coat it! $400 to just blast it! I’m going to ask my past used companies!
 

Hemi2Much

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Nice! My son has a friend whose dad is a mechanic, and has supposed connections. My son asked, and get this…. $3,500 to sand blast and powder coat it! $400 to just blast it! I’m going to ask my past used companies!
That's a "I don't wanna do it" price. Wish you were closer to Alabama, The guy I used was very reasonable. He's fairly new and trying to get his business going. I was very pleased with his work.
I actually have a set of factory steel wheels I'll be dropping off with him next week.
 

ckessel

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I got mine back from being blasted only yesterday. $30.00 in Atascadero. Wanted it cleaned off so I can do the rest of the work on it. One thing you can do on yours to help cut down some of the cost, get it cleaned of the accumulated grunge. Either take it to get hot tanked/jet cleaned or use elbow grease

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