K member - remove or stay

[Monkeymaster]

Hello,
66 Dodge charger trying to start to get her back together.
The K member, mine is fine other than 50 years of oil/dirt on it, so I want to clean it up and shoot with some paint.
I could leave it in the engine compartment and clean it up, but that will be a pita.
The power steering pump to steering wheel shaft, do you just punch out the roll pin, or do I need to be in the car to unbolt the steering column to pull inside the car ?
Then,
I see 4 main bolts to remove in the K member, after the torsion bars, strut rods, and lower control arms.
What can I expect when I go to reinstall, will the frame want to bow in, or out and prevent it from bolting up with out a lot of jacking around and cussing ?
This will be the 1st K member drop I have done, and just want to know what to expect.
Thanks in advance.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'd suggest leaving the K-member in there. BUT, if you feel like you must take it out, the main thing I'd be concerned with is taking out the steering column. I'm doing that myself right now. At least on '70, there are plastic "shear pins" inside the steering shaft. The column is intended to collapse like an antennae in an accident by breaking those tiny plastic shear pins. Check for one of my recent posts where a few members on here gave me some EXCELLENT tips....maybe a week ago.

If the motor is out of the car & you have it on jack stands & supported well, you should be able to get the K-member in/out without too much trouble... at least I didn't have too much trouble doing it, but mine had to be replaced. If not, I would have left it alone.

 

[moparnation74]

Just pop the cover off the coupler and pull the column out as easy as that.....Remove the 4 K frame bolts and drop it....Then remove the couple off of the steering box. Take some degreaser and a power washer and go to town on it....or take it to a local self serve car wash and do the same.....

As far as reinstall goes k frame first...So reverse of what you started with....The KEy thing to pay attention to and to follow the service manual on is when you reinstall the torsion bars....Don't get them mixed up(R vs L) or flipped....

 

[Monkeymaster]

Just pop the cover off the coupler and pull the column out as easy as that.....Remove the 4 K frame bolts and drop it....Then remove the couple off of the steering box. Take some degreaser and a power washer and go to town on it....or take it to a local self serve car wash and do the same.....

As far as reinstall goes k frame first...So reverse of what you started with....The KEy thing to pay attention to and to follow the service manual on is when you reinstall the torsion bars....Don't get them mixed up(R vs L) or flipped....

You say coupler, the rectangle shaped coupler where the round steering shaft mates to the power steering pump itself ?
I thought those were unable to be opened and closed if you will? As in "sealed" ?
I did not see any bolts or latches etc , could you explain further please ?

 

[moparnation74]

You say coupler, the rectangle shaped coupler where the round steering shaft mates to the power steering pump itself ?
I thought those were unable to be opened and closed if you will? As in "sealed" ?
I did not see any bolts or latches etc , could you explain further please ?

Yes, it has a rubber seal and metal cover held on by 4 tabs...pop off with a flat screwdriver...you'll have to replace the seal anyways...

 

[glorydays]

I just did this. unbolt what you need to. then jack the motor up with a 2x4 on the oil pan... drop the K, clean & paint and reinstall per service manual.. this is what I did to paint my K and might not be the best way. just how I got it done...

 

[Monkeymaster]

Yes, it has a rubber seal and metal cover held on by 4 tabs...pop off with a flat screwdriver...you'll have to replace the seal anyways...

Ok
Sounds simple enough
Where or whom did you purchase this rubber from may I ask?
Also, I have another thread about rebuilding/resealing the power steering gear box myself, kits available, was wondering if you know any magic secretes on that
Thanks

 

[Monkeymaster]

I just did this. unbolt what you need to. then jack the motor up with a 2x4 on the oil pan... drop the K, clean & paint and reinstall per service manual.. this is what I did to paint my K and might not be the best way. just how I got it done...

Engine bay is empty, so I have lots of room, just looking at everything, it looks simple, just don't want to take the last bolt out and hear a "boing" and find out the frames just splayed out 4" or you vice versa, and I now have to get everything lined back up, with a bunch of come alongs, chains etc ect ect
Thanks

 

[moparnation74]

Mega parts carries them...

Gearboxes I use firm feel to redo....there are members here that have rebuilt them themselves. Just post another thread.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Engine bay is empty, so I have lots of room, just looking at everything, it looks simple, just don't want to take the last bolt out and hear a "boing" and find out the frames just splayed out 4" or you vice versa, and I now have to get everything lined back up, with a bunch of come alongs, chains etc ect ect
Thanks

If it's boing you've got a problem.

 

[super-bee_ski]

I'd suggest leaving the K-member in there. BUT, if you feel like you must take it out, the main thing I'd be concerned with is taking out the steering column. I'm doing that myself right now. At least on '70, there are plastic "shear pins" inside the steering shaft. The column is intended to collapse like an antennae in an accident by breaking those tiny plastic shear pins. Check for one of my recent posts where a few members on here gave me some EXCELLENT tips....maybe a week ago.

If the motor is out of the car & you have it on jack stands & supported well, you should be able to get the K-member in/out without too much trouble... at least I didn't have too much trouble doing it, but mine had to be replaced. If not, I would have left it alone.

A great point Purple Beeper!

 

[CoronetDarter]

Debated the same issue when restoring the Coronet. Wound up taking the K out. So many advantages: have it media blasted, inspect the frame for any damage, cracks, etc. If you weld or know someone who does, you can box in the brackets that support the gear box. With the K out makes it much easier to hang the front suspension, spindles and brakes, then when ready just lower the car onto the K, align the spindle to the UCA and the front ends' just about done. While the K is out, clean and prep the front rails.
Clean, prep and reuse the original K member bolts (or get new, exact replacements). The 4 bolts are specific to the K member; they're shouldered to give you some wiggle room when replacing. Good Luck.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

If it's boing you've got a problem.

True. Did the car have a front end wreck ever that you can see? (e.g. wrinkled inner fenders, wrinkled firewall, obvious bent frame rail or obvious bent k-member) If no, then use these guys tips. If yes, then at least pull the frame straight before pulling the k-member. You can buy some frame alignment measurement specifications on ebay for about $10. I have on of those somewhere if I can find it...hopefully you don't need it.

 

[747mopar]

I'd take it out, if I didn't it would always bother me knowing I half assed it... but that's just me and I'm not right.

 

[Monkeymaster]

Update,
Decieded to man up and remove the K.
Took impact and loosend the 4 bolts enough that I could wiggle the K a little bit, this assurred my over imaginary mind that the frame it was bolted too did not have any "issues" like splaying in or out.
Took some time with impact, out, in, out,in juice it up ect ect.
After pressure washing it, looks like this K was the very first one the assembly lline worker ever welded.
I am no professional, but even my farmer welds with my Lincon Stick welder are better than this guys.
I may touch up a few of his "worms".

Also, a little tip for those who care, I used some Goop Orange NON pumice hand cleaner on some of the nasty oil turd areas, rubbed it in with my fingers, then swirled around with a parts cleaner brush, worked really well, cut through the poop with ease, and easy on my hands.
Thanks for all the replys

 

[moparnation74]

That is common for the welds back in they day