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K-Member Woahs - Late Model K-Member in early B

odwan12

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Mar 22, 2013
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south jerz
Guys!

I had a few fitment questions regarding the K-member in my 65 Satellite.

1ST After a review of this k-member and several pulls of measuring tape i have identified this k-member to be a 73-up b-body k-member according to schumacher's identification page.

so, not only does this pose a problem as far as the motor's position in the car (height and longitudinal) but also a fitment issue as far as headers.

I am using a low-deck B block (451) and have already scoured the forums regarding the fitment issues when it comes to low-deck blocks and headers. It seems like it's no dice. BUT apparently this k-member sits the motor a little higher. BUT schumacher remedies this positioning for proper geometry by instructing to cut a little off of the mount and drilling new holes for a lower position.

SO that leads me to future fitment issues of headers, oil pan, possibly oil pump..

2ND
Im aware that the original 62-65 b-body k members sat the engine forward approximately 3"

I am still in the body work stages of my project, having taken the entire car apart and want to weld my new 4 speed hump in this car within the next week SO I am concerned about this k-member sitting the motor back too much to where the shifter mechanism doesn't line up correctly with the natural position of the hump on the floor pan.

I want to go ahead and get the subframe connectors done this week as well.

3rd
this should be my last question/statement.... How will all of the aforementioned effect the crossmember for my 4speed. I am aware that there were different mounts for early b's and later b's.... being that i have a newer k-member messing up my original geometry. should i go ahead and try a 65 style mount first or the later 66-up mount for proper alignment.


FINALLY
Id like to try and figure these problems out now, so when this thing is done the body work and painted a beautiful deep deep black, I'm not cutting, grinding, etc... any wise words from you mopar gurus are appreciated.

Thanks in advance gentlemen

Very Respectfully,
aaron:angryfire:
 
Too be totally honest! I think you would be much better off getting an early b-body k-member! You'll spend as much money trying to adapt the later parts! Sell the k-member you have now and get the correct one! JMO Good luck with your project.
 
Too be totally honest! I think you would be much better off getting an early b-body k-member! You'll spend as much money trying to adapt the later parts! Sell the k-member you have now and get the correct one! JMO Good luck with your project.


Best answer and will save you a lot of aggravation. (and the later K member only moves the motor back 1 3/4")
 
Too be totally honest! I think you would be much better off getting an early b-body k-member! You'll spend as much money trying to adapt the later parts! Sell the k-member you have now and get the correct one! JMO Good luck with your project.



I think I would agree with this as thats what I would do. I know the main issue with the newer (66 and up) K-frame is the eng sets back more for better traction with more weight over the rear wheels but the tires today work so good that I did not even consider it on my 63. I have the original K-frame in my 63 that has the eng more forward then the newer K-frames but even on only 9" slicks I dont have any hook problems. My 63 is not the fastest in the world but it runs 10's on 9" tires and usually hooks good for a stock suspension car with SS springs. So if you are worried about not hooking as good with the right year K-frame I dont think you will have any problems. The tires today work very good when it comes to hooking up at the track. You would have less hassle's with the right year K-frame in my opinion. Good luck with it which ever way you decide to go. Ron
 
Hey all,

I really appreciate everyone's quick responses. It makes perfect sense to go with the original year K-Frame. I was just hoping my part scavenging days were over. :iamwithstupid:

Now its time to find an original haha.

And ... some one, i was sure i read on mopar muscle (that guy with the turbo'd 440) putting a 68 RR member in his 65 satellite, had a 3" change in motor position.


not to contradict you!!!, you said it so definitively!
 
Too be totally honest! I think you would be much better off getting an early b-body k-member! You'll spend as much money trying to adapt the later parts! Sell the k-member you have now and get the correct one! JMO Good luck with your project.

I discovered i had a 69 k-member in my 65, i'm also going to a 4-spd so for everything to line up like it should,i'm putting an early k-member back in my car. you should do the same. the differance is not 3", it's more like 1-7/8" towards the rad. just my $.02
 
I run a 68 kframe in my 64, and it moves the engine BACK, not forward, but then I'm using a late model hemi. Nonetheless, the 66 and up has a better steering support (idler is caputered whereas the 65 and down does not).
 
odwan12 There is an early v8 k-member on moparts 70 and back parts! I think it is in Pa.
 
I run a 68 kframe in my 64, and it moves the engine BACK, not forward, but then I'm using a late model hemi. Nonetheless, the 66 and up has a better steering support (idler is caputered whereas the 65 and down does not) I agree, if i were going to stay with the auto trans i would not go back to the early k. there are benefits with the later one's, like header and radiator clearance not to mention oil pan choices.
 
gentlemen, again, i really do appreciate everyone's time and attention to my situation.

MOPARSTEVE, thanks much for the referral ill be checking it out shortly.

mr. hind, i think it would be wise to follow your lead, and with everyone else's suggestions.
 
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