Ladder bars

[bearman]

Okay 1964 440 which is best. Better yet which size I read that 36 inch length is best but don't know why. Also floating axle or welded on. I have read also should have 3 to 5 degrees on pinion. Stock weight is 3600 but the car has been on a diet for awhile and continues to loose weight how should I figure that in for shocks. With ladder bars how figure the length of shock. Thanks for any input.

 

[bearman]

Never-ending folks got my answer from a 2020 post .

 

[aldal]

Killer Kong Project Update: Ironing Out Leaf Spring Woes - Dragzine

This is what my builder recommended for my 65 Coronet.

 

[bearman]

Interesting read thank you for your Input.

 

[dvw]

If you are running coil overs the bars are welded solid to the housing. No reason not to run coil overs. It'll need a decent shock anywat. So you only have to buy coil springs. Theyre cheap. Go with a 125#. The longer 36" bars move the instant center further forward. The hit on the tire is less violent. If you start putting power to it you want the 36". Mine are 36"
Doug

 

[33 IMP]

Check out Kevin Wilson's tutorials on you tube. Covers all sorts of rear suspension setups, including a couple on ladder bars and pinion angle with them.
Good in-depth stuff.
I agree on the adjustable 36 inchers if you have room for them (shouldn't be a problem).

 

[bearman]

If you are running coil overs the bars are welded solid to the housing. No reason not to run coil overs. It'll need a decent shock anywat. So you only have to buy coil springs. Theyre cheap. Go with a 125#. The longer 36" bars move the instant center further forward. The hit on the tire is less violent. If you start putting power to it you want the 36". Mine are 36"
Doug

Dvw, you had done a post in 2020 that laid it out pretty nicely so that is the way I'm going. It's the pinion angle I'm wondering about welding it all up then have have to change it. I guess the best thing is to weld it at zero then adjust from that point.

 

[bearman]

Check out Kevin Wilson's tutorials on you tube. Covers all sorts of rear suspension setups, including a couple on ladder bars and pinion angle with them.
Good in-depth stuff.
I agree on the adjustable 36 inchers if you have room for them (shouldn't be a problem).

33 I will read up on Wilson to get more information thank you.

 

[dvw]

Actual angle is 1.5 degrees down from eng/trans angle. Since the eng/trans in my car is angled down in the rear 2.5 degrees the pinion actually points up 1 degree. This gives the 1.5 degree down difference. I've heard for years adding pinion angle adds bite. To the point it came from a well known shock guy. So I tried it one night when the car was having traction issues. Tried 3.5 dgerees down, 2.5 degrees down, the current 1.5 degrees down. Absolutely no difference what so ever in traction. No need to add extra bind. What you want is near zero angle under acceleration, With 1.5 the car doesn't vibrate. Same U-joints for 10 years at close to 900 passes. As I remember it was mocked up and welded with the bars parallel to the pinion C/L. Then adjust from there. make sure the adjusters are not bottomed in one direction or the other.
Doug

 

[33 IMP]

Done right, ladders definitely work. I got away with ladders done so wrong you wouldn't believe it..... and they still worked. I will admit, light weight and big tires helped.

 

[bearman]

Actual angle is 1.5 degrees down from eng/trans angle. Since the eng/trans in my car is angled down in the rear 2.5 degrees the pinion actually points up 1 degree. This gives the 1.5 degree down difference. I've heard for years adding pinion angle adds bite. To the point it came from a well known shock guy. So I tried it one night when the car was having traction issues. Tried 3.5 dgerees down, 2.5 degrees down, the current 1.5 degrees down. Absolutely no difference what so ever in traction. No need to add extra bind. What you want is near zero angle under acceleration, With 1.5 the car doesn't vibrate. Same U-joints for 10 years at close to 900 passes. As I remember it was mocked up and welded with the bars parallel to the pinion C/L. Then adjust from there. make sure the adjusters are not bottomed in one direction or the other.
Doug

Do you run a nid plate or just the front. I was thinking having a mid plate would add more stiffness and help in the torque or hit.

 

[dvw]

No mid plate. Wouldn't fit with the headers. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. The angled bars from the shoulder bar to the floor actually land on a plate welded to the top of the front ladder bar mounts. The upward load transfers right to the cage.
Doug

 

[Budnicks]

cachassisworks.com/stories/techcac-003_web.pdf

 

[malex]

Okay 1964 440 which is best. Better yet which size I read that 36 inch length is best but don't know why. Also floating axle or welded on. I have read also should have 3 to 5 degrees on pinion. Stock weight is 3600 but the car has been on a diet for awhile and continues to loose weight how should I figure that in for shocks. With ladder bars how figure the length of shock. Thanks for any input.

—-
Sorry Bearman, not keeping up with things here as of late. I’m running 1.2 degrees of pinion angle. With my C/E outlaw triple adjustable bars the right side top bar sets pinion angle and the left side is preload. I used to run up to 5 degrees pinion angle when I was on leafs. Maybe all this has been answered already but easier to type it than read through. Good luck!

 

[bearman]

Thanks for the info will note it in my book. How are you doing staying busy I'm sure. How is the car doing this year.

 

[malex]

Thanks for the info will note it in my book. How are you doing staying busy I'm sure. How is the car doing this year.

Been busy everyday, all day. Car is doing great and will be back at it this weekend. Glad to see that you’re progressing with the 64.

 

[bearman]

How's your sidekick have you let him behind the wheel yet. I bet he learning alot from you.

 

[malex]

How's your sidekick have you let him behind the wheel yet. I bet he learning alot from you.

—-
Lil Buddy! He’s 16 now. Got his license, a stinky rusty old Dodge Ram 2500 with a Cummins in it. That, working, rolling coal and being a little red neck takes up all his time and money. Lol. No time to go racing at this point. He got **** the other day, suddenly a 12” pipe is sticking up behind the cab making everything black. Big injectors, straight piped, big side flares that don’t cover the rot holes is what he and his redneck group are all into. But sure a hell of a lot better still than those walking around with pants around there knees and trinkets protruding and attached everywhere.

The good side. Look at the cloud behind the cab, the black window must be from the cloud rolling in the rear window. One day he’ll come swooping back to the track.

 

[bearman]

Good you have kept him out of the woods for the part. Yep he'll be back and learn some more life lessons from you that has been there and done that. Best of luck this weekend to you. Keep us updated some of us have to live thru your post to keep us going.

 

[malex]

And off to the races!