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Let's see your custom tools - the ones you can't live without...

I made up this cradle recently so I can drop out the combo from below. Made it with some 2" .095 wall square, a piece of plate for the trans pan with side pieces to keep it located and some 500lb Northern Tool casters. I cut the k-frame verticles at a 5* angle to better locate them in the frame and the pan pad is 5* also cause thats what it is in the car. Already held it up there to verify fit. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks it will get loaded. Right now I'm disconnecting things and cutting out the old wiring as its getting replaced.

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What is the process you used?
@Ranger16
to pull a screwdriver shaft out of a handle?
squeeze the shaft in a vise, leave enough room under the handle for an adjustable wrench (to protect the handle), and two pry bars, and pull.
the handles were drilled out, slightly undersize. micro wave the handle and freeze the rat. slam together.
a couple i also epoxied.
also re purposed driver handles for files.
and, kinda handy, lower right, i cut down the shaft of 5/16 /8'' slotted to make them stubbies
got the idea from a tool forum. 1 guy actually sells this as a service, and he cuts down a rats handle on a lathe for a better fit.
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I made up this cradle recently so I can drop out the combo from below. Made it with some 2" .095 wall square, a piece of plate for the trans pan with side pieces to keep it located and some 500lb Northern Tool casters. I cut the k-frame verticles at a 5* angle to better locate them in the frame and the pan pad is 5* also cause thats what it is in the car. Already held it up there to verify fit. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks it will get loaded. Right now I'm disconnecting things and cutting out the old wiring as its getting replaced.
nice work!
i had boy1 weld me together (he needs the practice) a cart out of 3x3 square and 3'' channel. had him also drill/tap the mounting holes for the casters.
made it way easier to push around a 318/727. (i crushed the earlier cart)
 
I'll have to make sure the unit does not get the full car front end weight on it. Will lower the rack down slowly. I should have enough room to slip under to take out the trans crossmember bolts. K frame can be had from the outside. I have some larger rubber swivel units to make up some sort of support to roll it around once the main weight is out. First thing to do once its out is to fit up the new stuff to see what has the be moved. I'm putting in a 70 k unit with Schumacher mounts on the Indy block so I'm not going to assume it will just fit great. I am already going be working on the firewall to plug holes for the hvac, bulkhead connector and a bunch of others. Hvac and wiring will be coming in between inner and outer fenders. Going to have lots of takeoff parts to sell.

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Didn't look at every reply but this is pretty handy when rolling beads or flanges; took a valve wheel drilled and tapped to match up with the same. stock shaft. Makes it a lot easier than a crank handle as you are always pulling down against the base.

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Some pretty nifty creations, fellas. Here's a simple one I just whipped up the other day as I prepare to pull my 451.

Modified a nice heavy duty dolly I had laying around and now it's a rolling engine cradle. All I did was cut some clearance for the oil pan and added a couple of 2x4's which will catch the pan rail plus provide ground clearance for my deep oil pan. When the motor is off of it, it still works great as a dolly.

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Here are a few more sinple ones. The PVC is a homemade 8-3/4" axle seal press (2" pvc with a bushing that I sanded down to the correct diameter).

Orange one is a 2-1/4" hole saw with the teeth ground of. Makes a nice trans seal press (727 rear pump seal i think?)

The white one is a the same, only 2" and works perfect for pressing on spindle dust caps for the front spindles.

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Good use for old tools! And I just had a flash! If you have any friends in the construction or fabrication industries, you can probably score their old worn hole saws.
 
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Not sure I can top the drill, axle stand from my metal pile, 3hr job it works!
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Here is one I made years ago but just used again today. New carpet in my Charger. I learned a long time ago that drilling a hole in carpeting is fools play. I made a tool to punch holes in the carpet for seat bolts and seat belt anchors. I took a 6" length of 1/4" pipe and inserted it in a 1" dowel to keep from burning my hand. I then insert a scratch awl up through the floor through the carpet where I want the hole. Then heat the end of the pipe with a benz-o-matic torch. Slide it down over the awl and presto..........nice round hole that melts the carpet fibers so there is no guessing where the hole goes. Melted right through the sound deadener too!
Nice! I keep a very old Radio Shack pencil soldering iron for the same task.
 
Remind me to get a photo of my custom cut and bent box wrench designed to open and close the FREAKIN' PAIN IN THE %$(#$*@!!!! wheel cylinder bleeder screws on Chrysler 10" front drum brakes.

This tool is so essential that not having one is ample justification for a disc brake conversion.

-Kurt
 
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OK, first pic is my fully adjustable b body only transmission support apparatus. Probably not Mopar approved, but it works.
Second isn't homemade but Son picked it up at yard sale for $7.50, got him down from $10 hehe. It works perfectly and has replaced my Snapon timing light especially since I haven't seen it lately.......
But the Roadrunner definitely likes me using it just cause it's real Mopar!
 
Just finished this yesterday. Didn't want to pay $50 for a ball joint socket, so I made one for $free.99. Socket works great, still can't get the ball joint out lol

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This is a good idea. I went without the correct tool as well. I used an old plumbing pipe wrench and a LONG piece of pipe to turn those things loose. I only made about 1/16 turn each time so it took me what seemed like 10 years to get them out. But they are out!!
 
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