Looking for power brake booster & master recommendations

[1STMP]

What’s that linkage on the back of the booster? The reason I’m asking is that the prior owner put in a power disc brake conversion and the brake pedal is way too high. The brake light switch also is hanging up on the pedal sometimes. View attachment 1906300

This may help with your question
regarding pedal height.
The linkage at the rear of the the
booster is a bellcrank.The pedal
assembly sounds like it may not
be original to the car.
There are brackets available that
will allow for lowering of the pedal/
booster while still using the original
4 mounting bolts for the booster
mounting bracket. The piston rod
center hole will need to be elongated.

What is brake pedal ratio? · Help Center

 

[chrger1967]

This may help with your question
regarding pedal height.
The linkage at the rear of the the
booster is a bellcrank.The pedal
assembly sounds like it may not
be original to the car.
There are brackets available that
will allow for lowering of the pedal/
booster while still using the original
4 mounting bolts for the booster
mounting bracket. The piston rod
center hole will need to be elongated.

http://[URL]https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05037/en-us

[/URL]

Thanks, I'm going to measure that up today. It also seems like the brake light switch was put on backwards. It sits on the bolt instead of the pedal arm, and its catching on the arm. I'm trying to figure out what the hell they did.

 

[Nxcoupe]

What’s that linkage on the back of the booster? The reason I’m asking is that the prior owner put in a power disc brake conversion and the brake pedal is way too high. The brake light switch also is hanging up on the pedal sometimes. View attachment 1906300

In your pic, you'll see a second set of mounting holes for the brake light switch back from the 2 you are using. I had to move mine forward when I converted from manual to power brakes.

 

[chrger1967]

In your pic, you'll see a second set of mounting holes for the brake light switch back from the 2 you are using. I had to move mine forward when I converted from manual to power brakes.

I do see those hole, but I was thinking that the switch should be turned around and mount on the other side, hopefully resting on the pedal arm instead of the bolt. I felt around but could not feel any holes to mount it

 

[OzCharger69]

Going back to the original problem of leaking brake fittings. In the past I've used copper sealing cones to seal connections that leak no matter how much you tighten. They wedge between male and female side and squish when tightened, hence filling any imperfections. They were a life saver when I was restoring an old Land Rover.

 

[koosh]

Going back to the original problem of leaking brake fittings. In the past I've used copper sealing cones to seal connections that leak no matter how much you tighten. They wedge between male and female side and squish when tightened, hence filling any imperfections. They were a life saver when I was restoring an old Land Rover.

View attachment 1906626

VERY interesting…. Where are these sold? Different sizes?

 

[OzCharger69]

VERY interesting…. Where are these sold? Different sizes?

not sure, my local brake shop suggested these and they were a winner. It managed to seal some really rotten lines, an ex military Land rover that saw service in Vietnam and was abandoned in a field for 30 years

 

[chrger1967]

This may help with your question
regarding pedal height.
The linkage at the rear of the the
booster is a bellcrank.The pedal
assembly sounds like it may not
be original to the car.
There are brackets available that
will allow for lowering of the pedal/
booster while still using the original
4 mounting bolts for the booster
mounting bracket. The piston rod
center hole will need to be elongated.

http://[URL]https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05037/en-us

[/URL]

It looks like the ratio for my setup is 10-1. A is 10" and B is 1". I would have to drill a hole 3" from the original hole to get to 4-1. I'm looking some adjustable rods that are about an inch shorter. It looks like that might do the trick.

 

[chrger1967]

I have installed 2 of these on a Road Runner and a GTX they work great and look the part. Those like you have have been nothing but problematic. I have 3 of those style boosters taking up space in my garage.

Info:

Product Description​

New Reproduction Style Mopar Booster Conversion Kit

1966-1970 B Body Mopar Bendix Style Brake Booster Conversion Kit - Bendix type master cylinder for disc/drum and firewall plate/linkage.

Mopar used this type of booster on all of their car lines, except for the A-Body style cars. This booster as the most widely used and top option for both drum and disc brake applications. This kit replaces your booster unit with new parts and will fit Chargers, GTX, Satellites, Cornets, all other B-Body style vehicles made from 1966 to 1970.

This Kit includes:

• Mopar Bendix Style 8" Dual Power Booster w/ Classic Trapezoid Nose!!!

• Black Bendix Logo Style Master Cylinder with 1.125" bore & 9/16"-20 INV & 1/2"-20 INV WITH internal residual valves. Master Cylinder is brand new.

• Firewall Backing Plate with Linkage

This Unit is designed to fit 1966-1970 Mopar B Bodies ONLY with disc front and drum rear brakes.

Brake Lines Exit On Drivers Left Hand Side.
(THIS UNIT WILL NOT FIT CARS THAT HAVE 426 HEMI MOTORS)



Bendix Style Mopar 1966-1970 B Body Power Brake Booster Conversion Kit BCK8536-1 OEM Style for 1966-70 Charger, GTX, Road Runner, Satellite

View attachment 1855020

How long is that linkage they use for this setup? I need to lower my pedal and was wondering if buying this linkage would work. You think its about 5"?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

How long is that linkage they use for this setup? I need to lower my pedal and was wondering if buying this linkage would work. You think its about 5"?

It has been a while since I installed these. I assume you are talking about pedal height off the floor. Id have to look at it but seems like it was definitely lower than that offset pile of crap that was on it previously.

 

[The Rebel]

As my car has a non bendex booster but I'm pulling the correct vacuum with the help of a vacuum pump due to the purple cam, if I changed the booster to a bendex would l see any improvement in breaking?

Any input on my question?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

If you are already using a pump and the brakes are terrible I would not think that a Bendix booster would make a world of difference. What kind of vacuum are you pulling with the pump?

 

[The Rebel]

I forget but l think it's 13# Mercury.

 

[chrger1967]

I have installed 2 of these on a Road Runner and a GTX they work great and look the part. Those like you have have been nothing but problematic. I have 3 of those style boosters taking up space in my garage.

Info:

Product Description​

New Reproduction Style Mopar Booster Conversion Kit

1966-1970 B Body Mopar Bendix Style Brake Booster Conversion Kit - Bendix type master cylinder for disc/drum and firewall plate/linkage.

Mopar used this type of booster on all of their car lines, except for the A-Body style cars. This booster as the most widely used and top option for both drum and disc brake applications. This kit replaces your booster unit with new parts and will fit Chargers, GTX, Satellites, Cornets, all other B-Body style vehicles made from 1966 to 1970.

This Kit includes:

• Mopar Bendix Style 8" Dual Power Booster w/ Classic Trapezoid Nose!!!

• Black Bendix Logo Style Master Cylinder with 1.125" bore & 9/16"-20 INV & 1/2"-20 INV WITH internal residual valves. Master Cylinder is brand new.

• Firewall Backing Plate with Linkage

This Unit is designed to fit 1966-1970 Mopar B Bodies ONLY with disc front and drum rear brakes.

Brake Lines Exit On Drivers Left Hand Side.
(THIS UNIT WILL NOT FIT CARS THAT HAVE 426 HEMI MOTORS)



Bendix Style Mopar 1966-1970 B Body Power Brake Booster Conversion Kit BCK8536-1 OEM Style for 1966-70 Charger, GTX, Road Runner, Satellite

View attachment 1855020

The kit that was installed in my 67 Charger has the GM style M/C. I have a pedal ratio of like 10/1. The pedal is super high; I think I might have to start from scratch and just get a kit like this.