When changing the oil, the filter was off for maybe 2 minutes. Never had this happen before. I have a priming rod, but can it be done without pulling the intake manifold and distributor gear?
Lost oil Pressure
- Thread starter Mackman
- Start date
Durandal25
Well-Known Member
Should not need to pull manifold. Mark your dizzy position prior to removal any get the prime rod in there….if you’re not getting any grab after a few seconds then the pump would be my next stop. It ran with pressure before….and I doubt you spun a bearing
When I lost had filter off and went to parts store came back and dicked around. So filter was off a good hour. Started car and no oil pressure after 30 seconds shut it down, had about 12 oz. in filter already. I dropped the pump also. Never lost prime from just sitting. Never left oil filter off for more than a couple of minutes either. I drain and refill pan then 1/2 fill filter and change it and start car.
Edit: Any chance your oil was a little deluded with gas?
Last edited:
Wietse
Well-Known Member
Neither have I, though its the simple explanation of how the rotors seal.
There is no metal to metal contact, just an oil film in between that helps in creating a vacuum on the suction side.
I would expect this to occur on a brand new pump that has no oil inside at all, once primed it should be really hard to loose suction.
Then again, if the oil filter has been off for a long time it allows air in, maybe a very thin and hot oil or simply a too low oil level could cause it too lose it.
Something to think about: the filter I first removed had about 1000 miles on it. It has been sitting upside down on a drain pan for 24 hours, and it weighs 2lb. 1.0 oz. A new unused filter weighs 1lb. 1.4 oz. Both are Fram XG8A.
How can a guy check this out? On the motor I currently have the top end off of because of the valve train noise. A month before this happened, I found that my fuel pump pushrod had lost .305" of length. Put in a new rod and changed the oil. A lot of metal was on the oil plug magnet. Oil pressure still ran at 70 while going down the road, just like before. Just wondering if this could have had anything to do with my top end problems?
I guess the solution to the pushrod problem would be an electric pump.
Wietse
Well-Known Member
I got a NOS push rod through Ebay, still as good as new.
Now its removed as i got EFI though
I wasn't so lucky. Bought 3 supposedly NOS pump rods from a guy on ebay a couple of years ago. It was one of those that lost .305" in 1500 miles.I got a NOS push rod through Ebay, still as good as new.
Now its removed as i got EFI though
I am having zero oil pressure from my 440. I bought the car and it had been sitting for a long time and just got it to where it would fire. I have a mechanical gauge on it and no oil comes through the tube. I put on a new Melling pump and cleaned the inside and put thick oil in before installing. Have fresh oil and a WIX filter on it. I have just been cranking it to build pressure but not getting anything. Took the valve covers off and everything is moving correctly. I guess the next option is to pull the pan? or should I pull the pump drive gear and try and spin it with a priming rod.
Priming Rod first, make sure that the intermediate gear/shaft from the cam is actully there and not sheared off on the bottom.
Have you run the motor and had oil pressure?
Durandal25
Well-Known Member
How long was it sitting? If the engine sat a while it would be dry all over.....if it were me.....I'd pull the intake and valve covers to peek at the rods and lifters.....while open, lube it up top.....
You need to solve the oil flow prior to ignition.....always.
Prime the oil pump and if it fails to catch and get oil up to the top.
You may need to check the oil pick up.....a lot of work for sure.....but better then a start with no lube.....
No I bought the car and truthfully I dont know how long it had been sitting. I've had it since February so thats about 8 months just on my end. Ive taken the valve covers off and all the pushrods are tight. I may as well take the intake off since I have a new one for it and if everything is ok in there then I guess its on to the oil pan.
Remove the distributor and check the intermediate shaft first.
Do what Don said and get a priming 5/16 hex I believe and a drill and run drill CCW. Have a light to look for oil.
Like was stated poor oil on the top of every thing with valve cove's off. Prime with a drill. Turn motor with a wrench on the harmonic balancer just like a fresh built motor. This will ensure you get oil to every part. Good luck. Pulling the oil pan would give you access to the oil pic up tube. Clean the screen. Always like to pull the pan and clean it also. That will tell you a lot about the motor. Like is their metal in their or carbon deposit's.
So my oil pump shaft won't come out. I took the new oil pump off and it had zero oil in it. Can I tap the shaft up from the bottom?
If you have distributor out, yes if you can get at it. You've tried with a large screwdriver and wrench on handle or vise grips on shaft of screwdriver ? Did the tip of shaft snap? ps turn shaft CCW.
Orig69
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:21 AM
- Joined
- May 16, 2021
- Messages
- 864
- Reaction score
- 4,699
- Location
- Toronto Ontario Canada
Put a big flat head screwdriver into the slot of the intermediate shaft and turn the screwdriver counter clockwise and it should come out.
Similar threads
