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Mini-Starter B block headers touching

On my 512 the starter clearance was like 1/8" of an inch. Bought some lava wrap took it apart and the put it over the areas in question and between the starter. Its been that way for 8 seasons. No issues. But I was very concerned when I got the headers.
 
You would think that after 55 years that EVERYONE would know the best header paths? For years we've been using 3D
modeling and we have laser scanners that can give these manufacturers a clear path. For Christ's sake, WeatherTech
laser scans floor boards so their floor mats fit! Sorry for the rant, but we all pay good money for parts that don't fit.
There, I feel better!
100% agree! I understand every car is different as I've had about 10 of the same car over the years as my example. People can spend their money how they want but, I've seen way too many people dish the cash out for these and end up doing more beatng on a thousand dollar set of headers than I've ever had to do if at all to a set of Hookers. Yes. B motors were the worst fit usually but never had to beat them to fit. This is the second set on this car, first exact set and a B motor took me 20 minutes to put in, fast forward 3 years to another B motor and same set of headers, took me 3 days but, I didn't have to beat anything. More positioning and jacking **** up and over if anyrhing. Bought these Hookers new at Summit painted black, brought them home, sandblasted them and painted them with the silver VHT header paint you see, that was 3 years ago, they look good still and my mini starter is nowhere near them. That sucks! You should NOT have to deal with this period! These kits have been out too long for it
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That's funny you say Hooker Headers. My set of brand new 1980 Hooker Competition headers leave me
enough room to take my Mini-Starter out from the top! 2" primaries too. Some are better than others.
 
That's funny you say Hooker Headers. My set of brand new 1980 Hooker Competition headers leave me
enough room to take my Mini-Starter out from the top! 2" primaries too. Some are better than others.
Yes! I was amazed that I was able to install my mini as my mom stood in the doorway of the garage talking to me in like 6- 7 minutes. One of the best upgrades for the money ever. 3yrs no issues. 1 7/8" here. Manual steering box does help huge
 
On my 70RR, many years back I installed TTi headers along with a power master starter. The only interference I recall was with a torsion bar... So I used a couple of small spacers on the motor mounts to provide enough clearance. Later I did have to pull and replace the headers when the ceramic coating started to lift. Back then TTi was sending the headers out for ceramic coating and was having some serious quality issues. Being local to TTi I talked with Sam(owner) and he fixed me up with an improved header set.. :thumbsup:

Just my $0.02.. :)
 
That's funny you say Hooker Headers. My set of brand new 1980 Hooker Competition headers leave me
enough room to take my Mini-Starter out from the top! 2" primaries too. Some are better than others.
That’s impressive. I’ll see how this RobbMc starter fits. From the measurements it should be ok but I’ll post some pics when it’s done.
 
Must be a "B" block issue. The 2 1/8" tubes probably doesn't help.

I have the D452 Doug's on my 440 with no clearance issues at all. They are 2" tubes and require the mini starter. I bought a run of the mill Dakota starter and there's plenty of clearance. No heat shield or starter rap.

Back in the Seventies I had a '64 Dodge with a 383. Bought a used set of Doug Thorley headers from a guy who had them on his '67 Plymouth. I used the factory starter with no issues. Both the header and starter had to be loose and installed at the same time. No hammer required.
 
That’s impressive. I’ll see how this RobbMc starter fits. From the measurements it should be ok but I’ll post some pics when it’s done.

Installed the RobbMc 3005 starter today. It fit really nicely. There is a warning that if you have 130 tooth ring gear you may have to clearance the block but that’s not my situation. I clocked the solenoid at around the 1 o’clock position and had tons of clearance all the way around. It’s not a cheap starter but I didn’t have to bash my tti headers so pretty happy about that. I haven’t tried engaging it yet so I’ll have to see how it sounds but the measurements say good engagement.

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Steve009 your PM box is full
 
question for guys running a 440.......is this also an issue for the RB headers?..... thinking the raised block pushes the header outward a bit

Ran a set of Hooker slip fit 2-1/8 on an RB with no clearance issues at all. On a B engine with an 11 inch flywheel, even the Schumachers hit the starter.
 
Steve009 your PM box is full
Hi, trying to empty it now. Not having luck. Realized my gold member must have ran out so it’s limited. Let me fix that tomorrow so you can message me
 
Could you add extra flange between head and header without making problem else where?
I know my Cousin plans on putting a double header gasket to try and move the header out a bit on the driver side but a header gasket really isn't that thick. He will have to see how this aftermarket mini starter fits and hopefully it will with lots of clearance. Won't know for a few more days when the starter comes in. G.M. and Ford starters are on the passenger side of the motor so can't figure out why Mopar would cram the starter on the driver side where the steering column, steering box etc. are located.
 
I have found that by using Remflex header gaskets you will gain a smidgen of room as well. They are thicker than any other gasket that I have seen.
 
I have found that by using Remflex header gaskets you will gain a smidgen of room as well. They are thicker than any other gasket that I have seen.
Thank you. Would doubling up a Felpro header gasket be as effective as the Remflex you used?
 
Thank you. Would doubling up a Felpro header gasket be as effective as the Remflex you used?
AI believe a single Remflex would still be thicker than 2 Felpro's.
 
Hi,

I have a 400 block with TTi 2" x 2 1/8" step headers with a chrysler mini starter part number 3005984 with an 11" flywheel. According to the TTi website the 11" flywheel and ministarter will not fit with these headers. I learned this the hard way and saw my mini starter sitting on the header tube. ok fine, so they say to order a RobbMc mini starter to clear. Now ive heard from people trying this that the RobbMc mini starters have went to a larger design that touches as well. are there any mini starters that dont touch at all for this setup or am i smashing these headers with a hammer no matter what?

...follow up topic... i heard that the stock z bar on a b body touches as well and wondering how much "hammer work" will have to be done there too? dont really want to go to hydraulic clutch.

thanks in advance,
-Steve

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Was the Powermaster you used a 9523? When I called RobbMc they did tell me that they are now making a Generation II starter which has a bump sticking out on the header side. My Gen I RobbMc fit with a little side clearance however hard to tell how much as the previous owner wrapped the TTI tube running past it, the previous owner also had to dimple the tube behind the starter about 3/8 on an inch.
 
AI believe a single Remflex would still be thicker than 2 Felpro's.
Thank you. In the end a Powermaster 9523 mini starter was ordered as well as a set of Remflex gaskets. The Remflexes are 125 thou thick with a 50% crush and the Felpros are 60 thou with no crush. I am hoping once the gaskets come in they won't crush the entire 50%. On the driver side the previous owner had a doubled up set of TTI gaskets which are 1/16 inch thick and have no idea if the TTI gaskets have a crush rating..
 
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