I am fairly certain the crank is smooth where the seal rides. This is the same crank that has been in the block for 7 years.
My 69 Road Runner
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I know they used sealer on the bolts. 3 different guys replaced the seal in the time they had the motor this summer. I am waiting until the new driveshaft gets here so I can take the car for a quick spin just to make sure the new rearend is ok. Then I will pull the trans and flywheel, pump some air in and soap the rear main again. I am betting it will be leaking on the drivers side of the crank, just like before.
Is it possible it's building crankcase pressure
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No, they're never truly "done", I agree - unless one simply doesn't drive it after finishing it the first time.
What's the fun in that?
Wishing all the best of luck going forward with this as always, sir - and no, those 2.5" tails aren't going to harm a thing.
What's the fun in that?
Wishing all the best of luck going forward with this as always, sir - and no, those 2.5" tails aren't going to harm a thing.
I thought of that as well. The breather is clear on the one side, and I have tried 3 different pcv valves on the other. Nothing makes a difference. What is so odd is that this motor didn't leak oil before taking it in to get freshened up. The only change was swapping the flat top pistons for dish.
Sorry to hear of your ordeal, it has to be beyond frustrating. But a 451" stroker is a great tonic for getting your mind off the current motor. Looking forward to hearing of your progress...
They are just bad about leaking around the seals. They love to mark their spot. LOL. Hope you get things like you want them. 
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Modern technology seems to suck Joel. Why can't we just go back to a rope seal on the rear main. Mine's going on 45 years since rebuild in the Bee and doesn't leak a drop.
Oh, I will. Just takes a bunch more money than I was planning on spending.They are just bad about leaking around the seals. They love to mark their spot. LOL. Hope you get things like you want them.
This thing currently has a rope seal that is supposedly the best out there. I am very confident that is what is leaking because the oil coming out is extremely dark. Oil in the motor is fresh.
Its always something man.....the fun never seems to end. Sucks that you have to yank a fully assembled car back apart. Seems the more **** we change the more **** we have to screw with until we get it all dialed in. My dad always left **** stock and told me they always bolted together back then and worked why would you want to change it. I always laughed and modified stuff and kept at it until stuff seemed to work but there was always that in the back of my head when **** leaked, didn't fit, etc. was me chuckling at my dads statement. You'll get it man it just seems that all this new stuff today is junk. **** I got my edelbrock rpm dual plane for my 383 and set it on and those bosses on the bottom hit the intake sealing rail and won't let it sit flat on the damn gasket. It's like dude.....this intake is for a 383/400 only why doesn't it fit without grinding the little bosses off on the bottom??? Same **** on my 440 version and the 360 version on my truck needed the corners ground down to let it sit flat on the intake sealing surface either. These parts that "fit" suck and always need modifying ha! You will get it man keep at it and don't give up! Car is way too beautiful to stop now. Maybe it's a roadrunner thing. My 68 I am redoing in that rebuild thread got whacked in the fender with a crank pulley fell from my attic a few months back. I almost lost my lunch but was able to fill the chip with paint and clear and make it 98% fixed. I will probably spray the fender again sometime, but for awhile I am just going to drive it. If I fix that it''ll just be something else. Damn Roadrunners!
It is like this I figure. If you don't drive them then nothing will ever happen. Paint chips from the road junk. Small leaks here and there. We do all we can to make them prefect but in the real world they are going to leak and get some damage. Guess that is the fun of having these cars. Have fun and drive the wheels off them.
Strange 60 is in and I ordered a new driveshaft. It came at 3/4" shorter than the one I had for the 8 3/4 rearend. Forgot to take pics, but I painted it, got that installed, and out for a test drive. This rear end is perfectly quiet, very nice. The Strange 60 in my Super Bee has a howl on coast, but not this one.
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2 brand new Trick Flow 240 heads and ARP head bolts showed up last night. Now I have to make a decision on what to do with this motor. Was talking with Dwayne Porter about porting the Stealth heads I currently have. We decided it probably made more sense to buy the 240's and sell my Stealths.
I love my cnc ported Stealth heads but the TF combustion chambers are designed better. Nice choice!
Fannnnnncyyyyyyyy! They look awesome!
Absolutely beautiful car. What did you use for the hood stripes? Thinking about adding them to mine.
PPG has a mix that is supposed to be close to the original Organisol. That is what is on the car. It doesn't have nearly the texture as original though. A lot of guys are using Hot Rod Black in matte.
TTI 3" exhaust got dropped off a couple weeks ago. My plan was to run 3" through the mufflers and then bush down to 2.5". Would have used my old tailpipes and Accurate tips. But, this 3" fit so nice on this car, I decided to go all the way with it. Bought a new set of TTI 3" tips, but will install those later.
And then a couple of sad pics. Motor is out of the car again. Hauled it to a shop in northern MN. They guarantee me that the rear main seal oil leak will be fixed. They are also going to tear the whole motor apart to check everything over and install the new Trick Flow 240's. If everything inside gets left alone, it will be interesting to see what the power gain is by just the head swap from Stealths to TF's. Just really sucks because the motor was just apart for new gaskets, seals, and bearings 40 miles ago. But I agree with the new guys that they want to verify everything before letting it out of their shop. Interesting what they do for the rear seal problem on Mopars. They mill out the block for a Chevy rear main seal. Custom made retainer. This also requires building up the crank in that area to the Chevy size. They said that Wheeler is the one who first did this several years ago on a Hemi with a seal that they couldn't get to stop leaking. Now both these shops do it to most all their Mopar builds. I forgot to take pics of the setup when I dropped off the motor, but the Chevy seal is quite a bit more robust than the Mopar. Time will tell I guess....
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