My daily driver 67 Coronet wagon

[ckessel]

I've been posting stuff here and there on the wagon as time has progressed since I bought it. I'm getting further into upgrades/redo's that I've been collecting pieces for. So far I have my brake components: 11.75" rotors[ to replace the 10.75's], 11x2.5" drums[ to replace the 10" units], XHD rear springs with a 2.5" extra arch[ mine are old and soft] and a 70 k-frame that I've modded some. I already have 1.06" t-bars from FFI, FFI upper control arms, Bilstein through FFI shocks. These are items I bought for my 65 but decided to upgrade it so these will work great on the wagon. I still need to get sway bars, steering/suspension pieces, rear axle bearings with adjusters[ PO put Greens on], Borgeson box and pump and a few other items. Once I have all of those, I'll pull the VW project off my rack and put the wagon on. Today I took delivery of a core 440 from a nice gent from Delano named Alvin. It's a 75 unit, so low compression and he had a pair of 516 closed chamber heads that I also bought. Will help get the compression up. I started tearing the "new" unit down today. It's been many years since I took an engine apart. I Plastigauged the journals. Have a consistent .002 on the rods and .003 on the mains. 2-5 mains look like they got into the copper. No scoring or roughness on the crank. Maybe got too hot? Don't know yet. Tomorrow I'll finish gutting the short block. It appears to have been gotten into in its past. Looks like FelPro head gaskets were on it, has a double roller chain/gear combo, has some Pioneer steel freeze plugs. All the bearings appear to be standard as there no marking for +010 etc. Once it's down to the block, I'll take it, the crank, heads to get inspected. I'm hoping for no or low taper on the cylinders. The one piston I cleaned off doesn't show any +markings. Will give them a check with my dial calipers. Hopefully I'll be able to do just an overhaul on this. Rings, bearings, freshen the heads w/hardened seats, cam, lifters[ came out easy], timing set, pumps etc. I'll get the decks checked and squared up. I plan on running steel shim gaskets to help out on the squeeze and will get the surfaces finished accordingly. If all goes well on this, I'll do a weekend swap and take out the current one which has a 1qt per 500 mile appetite plus leaks like a Jag. It will get set aside, after draining fluids etc, for a future stroker. If the "new" block is going to need more than I'm hoping, it will take longer so I can come up with the dough and put it on back burner.

 

[ckessel]

More shots. The rods are stamped so I would imagine its had bearings before.

 

[GTX JOHN]

I thought the 440s were all stamped from the factory with numbers?

 

[ckessel]

That would be cool. I've worked on several A motors but this is my first B/RB to dive into this far. Tomorrow after I get done with home owner stuff, I'll get the short block emptied out and will try to get it measured on Wednesday.
One thing I forgot to mention on my upgrade list was SFC's. I have some 2"x.120 wall square that I'll use to make a pair up. Going to do those before I start changing springs and bars. Especially since they'll be a heavier rate.

 

[493 Mike]

I use super glue or "New Skin" on my thumbs! Also, I went with a drag race rear antisway bar on my 65 to cut unsprung weight. I bolted it on too. That's a panhard bar anchor on the right-side frame rail, if you were wondering.
Mike

 

[ckessel]

I was able to get the block emptied today. Before I started, I made a run to the grocery store to buy some ribs and other stuff. As I was pulling into the parking lot, I had a thought. Before dropping number 1 piston/rod out, I should check the balancer to see if its slipped. If so, add that to the parts list. I made up a positive stop, put it on the deck, spun the crank one way till it hit, marked the balancer, rotate the other direction till it hit, marked it again. Balancer is fine! Another sign the engine has been worked on is that I found the hub had a wear sleeve on it. I measured the top of the bore and got 4.32". Measured one piston up to and got 4.325". Measured it on the skirt and got 4.345. Hmm. I'll know for sure what it is on Wednesday when I take the block to get the bores measured. There were no markings on the top of the pistons for oversize. On the backside, I didn't see any Mopar signs. Hmm. As I noticed yesterday, it has a double roller set on it. A bit on the loose side. So I have my piles of pieces in containers for future cleaning and trashing. One thing I need to do either before or after loading it into the wagon is reposition the engine stand head where it's bolted to the block. I didn't set it to be centered at or just above the cam. Set it at the crank. Made it top heavy in its normal position which made it fun getting it spun around after going upside down. My neighbor came over with his FIL and gave me a hand getting it right side up. I'm a pooped pup after this. It's been at least 15 years since I got this far into an engine. It was nice already having the tools needed. Like the balancer puller/installer unit.

 

[ckessel]

More. And the fuel pump pushrod is in spec.

 

[ckessel]

So I got the bores checked today along with getting a piston measured. My initial thoughts were correct, it's been poked/rebuilt before. It's .030 right now and needs to get poked again. Drats. Was hoping for a quick overhaul. Tomorrow I'll price out a rebuild package from Mancini. I already got an idea on block work at the shop. About $1500. So I'll be weighing out prices, actual needs, wish list stuff and go from there.

 

[493 Mike]

So I got the bores checked today along with getting a piston measured. My initial thoughts were correct, it's been poked/rebuilt before. It's .030 right now and needs to get poked again. Drats. Was hoping for a quick overhaul. Tomorrow I'll price out a rebuild package from Mancini. I already got an idea on block work at the shop. About $1500. So I'll be weighing out prices, actual needs, wish list stuff and go from there.

If MPG is not critical, you might look at a stroker kit. I had great results with the kit I purchased from Ohio Crankshaft.
Mike

 

[ckessel]

I for sure WANT the stroker package. But, do I NEED it? You know the want and need quandary.

 

[ckessel]

Currently the MPG is in the low teens. 11/12? Thats with a sick, overcammed engine. If I get better or at least a reason for similar MPG due to power/CI changes, all the better.

 

[493 Mike]

I for sure WANT the stroker package. But, do I NEED it? You know the want and need quandary.

Come on, you can't take that money with you to the hereafter!
Mike

 

[ckessel]

You got that right. From Mancini, the cast/moly package is around $900, forged/moly is around $1500. I've got time to weigh it out. I did see the package from Ohio is better than 440 Source. But I need to see what the trip to me will run between them. I'm also going to check with SCAT. They're 3 hours south of me. In the meantime, pieces are on dollies.

 

[ckessel]

Speaking of Mancini, my order came in from them today. Skidplate, urethane strut rod bushings, rear trans seal and some diff pieces I'll be needing when I put the correct axle bearings on. Skidplate is welded on now. Tomorrow I'll take it, the lower control arms, shafts and the t-bar adjuster nuts to get coated.

 

[Kern Dog]

If you are a junkyard dog like me, you can save a few bucks on the front sway bar.
I've made 5 front sway bars for 2 B bodies, 3 A bodies and an E body using front bars from 1973-87 Chevy/GMC 1 ton 2wd trucks.
They measure 1.25" and only need to be cut down slightly to work.

Here is what they are shaped like:

You simply cut the bar at the bends at each end...

Taper the ends and drill holes....

I made my own mounts with 3/8" thick aluminum.

FAR cheaper than a Firm Feel or Hotchkis bar.

I already had the end links. Junkyard cost was $35 plus the D bushings were another $25.

 

[ckessel]

I remember that. Pick a Parts are 3+ hours away from here. May make a trip. Also this area is chebby land, so I'll look on CL too. One ton dually's?

 

[Kern Dog]

Dually? Maybe. I found the C-30 used the 1.25" bar and the C-20 used one about 1 1/16" to 1 1/8".

 

[ckessel]

I'll start scouting around. Ty Greg!

 

[OneWheelPeel]

If you are a junkyard dog like me, you can save a few bucks on the front sway bar.
I've made 5 front sway bars for 2 B bodies, 3 A bodies and an E body using front bars from 1973-87 Chevy/GMC 1 ton 2wd trucks.
They measure 1.25" and only need to be cut down slightly to work.

View attachment 1859106

Here is what they are shaped like:

View attachment 1859098

You simply cut the bar at the bends at each end...

View attachment 1859100

View attachment 1859102

Taper the ends and drill holes....

View attachment 1859104

View attachment 1859105

I made my own mounts with 3/8" thick aluminum.

View attachment 1859107

View attachment 1859108

FAR cheaper than a Firm Feel or Hotchkis bar.

View attachment 1859109

View attachment 1859110

I already had the end links. Junkyard cost was $35 plus the D bushings were another $25.

Well damn that should be its own thread right there. Do you have a similar hack for a rear swaybar?

 

[Kern Dog]

I have a 3/4" bar from an 83 Imperial. It is shaped a lot like the 70-71 E body rear bar.

Frame mounted.

The 82-92 Camaros and Firebirds came with rear bars between 5/8" to 11/16" and can be adapted to a 66-70 B body with a little work but they are axle hung, not frame mounted. The end links are wide though so they are actually a better fit for E and 71-74 B body cars.
I'm a big fan of finding ways to make junkyard stuff work.