Need a new crank, what should I do and where to look?

[wsutard]

So I just got the word back from my machine shop that the steel crank I was planning on using for my 440 build is cracked in two places.

The machine shop recommended Engine Rebuilders Supply in Oregon. Anyone have any other ideas as to where to look for a stock 440 steel crank?

Switching to the stroke conversation. Would this be a good opportunity to consider going with a stroke crank instead? I haven't purchased the internals yet but I don't want to get carried away with the costs.

 

[1967coronet440]

Might as well stroke it now! 440 source has some nice cranks, also can go with scat or eagle. Just about all the big names you can get crank rods listing and rings in one kit. What’s you plan for the car mostly street driving?

 

[wsutard]

Might as well stroke it now! 440 source has some nice cranks, also can go with scat or eagle. Just about all the big names you can get crank rods listing and rings in one kit. What’s you plan for the car mostly street driving?

Yep, street. I'm trying to figure out the component cost difference between stroke and stock. Seems like the main cost difference will just be the crank. About $500 worth of difference.

 

[1967coronet440]

Well if you’re not really looking for the extra power I’m sure you can pick up a used crank on CL cheap. 440 source has a nice stock replacement for about 750 I think.

 

[wsutard]

Well if you’re not really looking for the extra power I’m sure you can pick up a used crank on CL cheap. 440 source has a nice stock replacement for about 750 I think.

Good point on the power. At stock stroke and my components I think I am at the top power band for what my 4 speed and 8 3/4 can reliably handle anyway. Didnt even think of that till you mentioned it.

 

[1967coronet440]

Search your local craigslist I’m sure there’s cranks at a reasonable price around you.

 

[wsutard]

Search your local craigslist I’m sure there’s cranks at a reasonable price around you.

Already got a search going, zero listings right now. Waiting on a call back from the ERS people.

 

[moper]

If you want a 440, find a crank locally, don't pay more than $150 for it, and have it turned.
If you want to stroke it, the cost in total will be approximately double the percentage of increase of the stroke. This is a general deal for a mild build. So a 4.25" increase is 24% more, a 3.915 about 13%, etc. But that's on the total bill. So a $5K 440 will turn into a $6200 deal. And that's for a very mild build. If you want bigger power, it's a lot more. You'll need more head, more carb, more cam (and required matching parts), etc. You don't just stick a longer crank in it and think you're good to go.

 

[1967coronet440]

There’s a couple reasonable on eBay

 

[69Bee]

Have the steel crank welded and reground. I don't know why the machine shop didn't suggest it, unless you have two cranks now (just shorter)... It is about $50 to $75 to weld it here, and $100 to $110 to grind. You can also get with a machine shop using EPWi for parts, and get a crank kit. This will be a reground crank with bearings. There will be a core charge, and they will deduct amounts for the welding, so you will still get some back. The core charge should be $194 for the steel RB crank.

 

[wyrmrider]

Cast cranks work just fine, converter weights and dampner are different- whatever works
Strokers are well worth it
you can go milder on the cam and compression and still have more torque at street rpm's than a stock stroke build
but let's say you keep everything else the same
torque curve moves down, more torque earlier
hp stays about the same
you can run taller gears for the same pull
There are several combinations that can use inexpensive pistons

 

[Cranky]

I have several 440 cranks....

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Found this advert on your local Craigslist.. Apparently the guy has 2 blocks with cranks and rods for 200 each. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/d/mopar-bb-headscomplete-cores/6447728523.html

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Cast 440 cranks will have 440 casted into the crank. Steel cranks won't have that.

 

[wyrmrider]

Check the flywheel flange or a picture B4 U pay
413HD Truck cranks have a completely different look
Maybe someone can post a pic- I do not have one

 

[Cranky]

Cast 440 cranks will have 440 casted into the crank. Steel cranks won't have that.

It's not hard to tell a cast crank from a forged crank even without looking for for the '440' cast into them. The parting lines on a cast crank are thin and sort of sharp while a forging are wide and much smoother....and a casting looks like a casting. I don't have any cast cranks laying around anymore to take any comparison pics....

 

[moper]

The forged are heavier too. They're not that hard to find. You can also look into just ordering a crank kit - that is a crank, turned and polished ready to install, with matching main and rod bearings.

 

[dvw]

Have the steel crank welded and reground. I don't know why the machine shop didn't suggest it, unless you have two cranks now (just shorter)... It is about $50 to $75 to weld it here, and $100 to $110 to grind. You can also get with a machine shop using EPWi for parts, and get a crank kit. This will be a reground crank with bearings. There will be a core charge, and they will deduct amounts for the welding, so you will still get some back. The core charge should be $194 for the steel RB crank.

Weld the cracks? Ah, no
Doug

 

[BeepBeepRR]

 

[miller]

Don't know all the gory details, but only crank welding I've seen, and had done, was to re-surface the crank journals. Or, in a pinch, correct end play, on #3 main.
Might still be done, having a crank ground -.010, welded back up using hard chrome, and re-ground back to standard.
Back in the day, pretty common for pro drag motors.

Crack makes it scrap.