• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Need ideas to remove stuck tight Hemi intake

AR67GTX

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
5:38 PM
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Messages
4,806
Reaction score
4,319
Location
Arkansas
Once I had the top of the engine stripped I thought I was home free but the previous owner must have RTV’d the heck out of this intake and I haven’t been able to budge it. The gasket at the front China wall was easy to separate but the side gaskets are like a rock. A sharpened putty knife and a set of Craftsman gasket scrapers won’t hardly dent it. I put the bottom coil mount bolt in and tried using that as a lever point with a combination crowbar/nail puller but it won’t budge It. Pulled the valve cover on one side to try to get into the gasket with something to separate it but can‘t make a dent in it and there aren’t any good prying points. Scraped the paint off the outer edge of the gasket and soaked it with Kroil which I’ve heard softens gaskets but I doubt it can penetrate deep enough between the intake ports to help much. Not wide enough to get anything in strong enough to pry with.

Also tried a heat gun on the areas of the intake between the runners.

Damn Bubba strikes again. Anyone have any ideas?

4220B68C-C481-489C-9B99-22F212CDF97E.jpeg
 
What about making an engine lift plate attached to the carburetor mounting studs and lifting the engine a bit with a hoist? You could tap on the intake with a rubber mallet....
 
All my pry bars are too thick to get into the gap, especially if stout enough to do any good. This thing is like epoxied on.

Engine hoist and carb plate may have to be tried.

Thanks
 
All my pry bars are too thick to get into the gap, especially if stout enough to do any good. This thing is like epoxied on.

Engine hoist and carb plate may have to be tried.

Thanks
Drive a screwdriver in then. It will pop right up. Your intake does not have any bolts in the rear at the wall does it?
 
I have a method, I did this on a 360 with a stuck iron intake. Now of something broke it wouldn’t really matter on it, just throw it away. But on your hemi it would be an expensive disaster if something breaks.

Take a bigger craftsman straight blade screwdriver. See the blade shape is a wedge? I pounded in between the intake and the block at one side near the head. It lifted the intake off the engine.

I had already lifted the intake with a engine hoist and it did nothing but lift the front of the car. Needs to be jarred loose.
 
Last edited:
The engine hoist idea avoids gouges and scratches that will occur if you pry with a chisel or screwdriver.
 
The engine hoist idea avoids gouges and scratches that will occur if you pry with a chisel or screwdriver.
You only get those if you are careless. I would of had it off quicker than he could type the help post.
 
Mine came off very easily with a 6-71 blower on it.
Flew right off so to speak !
 
Last edited:
OK - crises averted. I bought a $35 mechanics pry bar with a hammer point on the end, ground the pry point down until it would start to lip in the joint at the China wall, and gave it 4 or 5 good whacks with a hammer and it wedged/broke the thing loose finally. Fed up with it for now - finish pulling it loose and clean up tomorrow.

Thats the point I’ve been prying on Fran. I just lacked something I could work it there and drive/pry and wedge at the same time.

Thanks for all the suggestions. When this things goes back together it’s definitely getting a thin smear of white lithium grease on the intake side.
 
I didn't remove this intake. Some of the chopping is mine, to make a Vanke manifold. could weld from bottom, cut first think later.
019.JPG
024.JPG
020.JPG
 
I was trying to avoid something like that from happening.
 
I have used a "good and sharp" wood chisel. One that has the hammer pad on the end of the handle. They are thin and sharp enough to get in between the china wall and the intake. Plus they have a lesser slope to the bevel and will slide in much easier. That's my go to.
 
Make a plate to bolt on the carb bolts weld a hut on the middle that you can attach a slide hammer puller to It will come off
 
Success and the mechanics pry bar that I ground the tip down on a little to fit in below the coil mount.

C55A0C1C-B709-4815-87E5-061A1D8DC62E.jpeg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top