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need some thoughts on right stroker combo

adam83

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Im picking my combo right now. I have a 400 block and a 440 block I can use. I want to be right around 500 cubes, so either a 4.15 or 4.25 stroke crank is what im figuring, but what I can't get anyone to agree on is which combo to use. My main goals are: 1. keep the engine close to 500 cubes. 2. Longevity. I want the best combo that will produce the longest lasting engine.. it will be a hard street driven car, some strip time too. Which block and which crankshaft combo will be the easiest on the main and rod bearings?
 
Here's what I did recently if it helps.......

440RB to 512 stroker kit 440 source
Indy dual plane intake-Port matched to intake runners
Quick fuel Q950
Canton 4 hole .250 Carb Spacer
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 84CC Ported/Bowl Clean up/valve work
Comp Cams Valve spring locks and retainers
Edelbrock valve springs (came with heads)
Comp Cams Extreme Energy Mechanical Flat Tappet 23-232-4 (244/[email protected]/540lift.....LSA110)
1.5 Roller Rockers
Milodon HI-Vol Oil pump
Milodon HI-Vol water pump
Mancini Aluminum Water pump housing
Comp Cams Magnum roller timing chain
4 Seconds Flat curved/phased mechanical distributer
Firecore 50 Plug Wires
Flame Thrower .6 Ohm coil
6 Quart Hemi Oil pan
Stroker pick up tube from 440 source
Doug's 2" Ceramic coated headers

Dyno results from a couple days ago...4th pull


Dyno.jpg
 
Any of the big blocks will last well if properly built, with a good oiling system. I used a Melling hi volume pump, and a 5 quart oil pan on my 451. Running fine. And its a 13 to 1 C/R motor. 915 heads, 509 cam, headers etc. Good luck.

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Any of the big blocks will last well if properly built, with a good oiling system. I used a Melling hi volume pump, and a 5 quart oil pan on my 451. Running fine. And its a 13 to 1 C/R motor. 915 heads, 509 cam, headers etc. Good luck.
 
adam83; Prop has already done the heavy lifting on this on and ya can't argue with the results IMHO... good luck with your project.
 
It doesn't make any difference what combination you choose. If you check the clearances and put the engine together CLEAN, it will last a long, long time.
 
Longevity is also dependent on your cam selection. If you end up with a cam that requires a lot of spring it won't last a super long time and most likely be really picky about oil. And it's not just the cam because the whole valve train is under more stress. I'd stick with a milder profile and use the cubes to your advantage.
 
Another thing to consider is people seem to have less header issues with raised blocks. Anyone with more experience want to chime in on this?
 
Hummm, about. 5'6" brunette looks like Kate Beckensale....

Oh you mean engines!!!!! I would say the 540 kit from Mancini is hard to beat!

Mike
 
Here's what I did recently if it helps.......

440RB to 512 stroker kit 440 source
Indy dual plane intake-Port matched to intake runners
Quick fuel Q950
Canton 4 hole .250 Carb Spacer
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 84CC Ported/Bowl Clean up/valve work
Comp Cams Valve spring locks and retainers
Edelbrock valve springs (came with heads)
Comp Cams Extreme Energy Mechanical Flat Tappet 23-232-4 (244/[email protected]/540lift.....LSA110)
1.5 Roller Rockers
Milodon HI-Vol Oil pump
Milodon HI-Vol water pump
Mancini Aluminum Water pump housing
Comp Cams Magnum roller timing chain
4 Seconds Flat curved/phased mechanical distributer
Firecore 50 Plug Wires
Flame Thrower .6 Ohm coil
6 Quart Hemi Oil pan
Stroker pick up tube from 440 source
Doug's 2" Ceramic coated headers

Dyno results from a couple days ago...4th pull


View attachment 116951
nice results similiar build to mine to mine, except you have 7 more inches, 4 more cc's in the head and i only have 1 7/8" headers but i do have a slightly bigger cam, hopefully mine puts out some similiar results, what compression did yours come in at prop?

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talk to muscle motors also man they did my 505 kit they were very helpful, this included K1 4.25 crank, 0.30+ 26.7cc valved KB pistons, RPM 7.100 h beam rods, clevite bearings, same kit as the 512 except they use +.60 pistons instead of +.30
 
I like the low deck (400 block) based engines. Provided you can get your desired stroke to fit in there. These blocks are built with more main web strength than the 383 or 440 blocks. Plus the lower deck allows a lighter piston, with the wrist pin up higher on the piston . So overall, you have a stronger, stiffer block, And a lighter reciprocating assembly. Plus the larger bore results in less valve shrouding. The 400 Smaller main journals allow for less friction. You have more room in the engine compartment with the lower deck blocks. Are there more advantages to the low deck 400 blocks? Probably, but I dont know what they are. I have a 451 in my 69 Road Runner, and it will fry the tires in 2nd gear!
 
May I add the following:
ASK plenty of questions! Watch the compression ratio. You may be on the road somewhere and find that premium fuel isn't available. I have been given some good and not-so-good advice in the past. I should have gone with a lower compression reverse dome piston from the start. it would have afforded me the option to use 87 or 89 octane on road trips. I wondered if giving up a point and a half of compression would have hurt power much. I know it would have saved me some aggravation.
 
I have 84cc edelbrock rpm heads. With a flat top piston w/valve reliefs, and the piston about. 017 in the hole with about a .028 thick compressed haeds gasket, I should be right aroun 10:1 to 10:3
 
I have 84cc edelbrock rpm heads. With a flat top piston w/valve reliefs, and the piston about. 017 in the hole with about a .028 thick compressed haeds gasket, I should be right aroun 10:1 to 10:3

That math seems fuzzy to me. How big are the valve reliefs? My 493 with similar numbers is at 10.73 with a THICKER head gasket. You would certainly have a higher number with a thinner head gasket. This is why I posted. Not getting the compression ratio to a safe, streetable number is my biggest mistake. I wish i could go back in time to warn myself. Yes, I hear that it is possible to run 11 to 1 on the street but the tuning must be tip-top. Lower compression allows you some wiggle room.
 
I can't guarantee this number, but that's how the math came out. +4cc is what the piston advertises
 
Uhhh...
Maybe you should look in the thread I started about running 10.8 compression on the street. I received some very good responses in that one. A compression ratio calculator was posted in there as well.

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I can't guarantee this number, but that's how the math came out. +4cc is what the piston advertises

Also, you state 10.1 to 10.3. That is 2/10ths of a difference. The math is either right or it isn't. That difference can certainly determine the detonation tolerance.
 
My bad, am talking about my other build, the 440. I have stock strock 3.75" crank, stock 440 rods, and ross forged flate top pistons and 84cc eddy heads. The tech from ross racing said my compression should be about 10:1. I haven't picked out the pistons I want yet for the stroker, but I agree I don't want over 10.5:1, I will be running pump gas 98% of the time
 
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