The 5/16" fuel line is fine. Increasing it to 3/8" or beyond is not going to solve the poster's problem. Street car with the problem happening at low rpm...probably timing or jetting issue.
New 440 tuning and adjustment questions
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Durandal25
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....indeed, after checking the vacuum and noting that at 600-650 rpm it sat at 12, I pulled the intake and looked for the usual issues....and believe I may have found one. I'm going to bring her back up this week to see if it got any better.
Durandal25
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....ok, so many things have been ruled out on my issue, including compression, intake vacuum, timing and the dizzy.......what lies next is the push rods......which were 9.25 or 9- 1/4. The block was decked, and the compression is about 175 PSI per cylinder. Could the rods be too long and causing the issue?
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How loud is the pinging and how long does it last? Does it quit after a certain rpm?
Durandal25
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....not too loud, I may make a vid this weekend an post it. It does quiet down when you jump on it, but when under load it hits about 2100 rpm.
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When does it go away?
Durandal25
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pretty soon after, it just happens a bit, under certain circumstances of load.
Sounds like the carburetor is tuned too lean at the transition from the cruise step to WOT (metering rods), which is expected if you used the carb on a milder motor. Determine what metering rods, step up springs and jets you are running now and use that as your starting point. Then start going richer on the cruise step. Rods have 4 digit numbers (e.g. 7047), the first two are for the cruise (higher number is leaner, lower is richer) and the last two are for larger throttle openings (lower number is richer, higher is leaner). Check the edelbrock manual they will have the calibration graph for rod/jet combinations. Depending on your vacuum and gearing, the transition is around 2000 - 2500 rpm. If that's not enough, you may need to size up on your primary jets.
You can also change step up springs, they range from 3" vac to around 8". These determine when the metering rods transition, purely based on vacuum signal. Good starting point for choice of springs is around half your vacuum gauge reading at idle under load. You can adjust this to eliminate off idle bog and such along with the acc pump shot. I would suggest getting the tuning kit for your carb, the one for the 1813 AVS has most of the relevant tuning parts. The AFB/AVS parts interchange. This site has all the rods listed:
http://quadrajetparts.com/carter-carburetor-parts-carteredelbrock-afb-avs-parts-afb-avs-jets-rods-accessories-c-299_130_132.html
The weather will affect your calibration especially with low vac. Ive been commuting with my car for the past month and I've had to do some adjustments (ambient temp gets hotter, fuel metering gets richer and I have to lean out). What is cool about the carter/edelbrocks is that they are so simple to adjust. T15 torx and you can pop out the rods/springs in like 2 mins. The jets you will want to drain the bowls, but as long as you are in the ballpark you can do most fine tuning with metering rods & springs.
Durandal25
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Durandal25
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*****Update*****
So I got the car finally over to a solid classic car mechanic and he resolved the rattle. The issue lay in the distributor being set to 20 degrees advanced plus a few minor vacuum issues. The issue I'm seeing now......its getting hot....ahhhh! So it runs great, but seems to get too hot at idle.....like 220+.
So I got the car finally over to a solid classic car mechanic and he resolved the rattle. The issue lay in the distributor being set to 20 degrees advanced plus a few minor vacuum issues. The issue I'm seeing now......its getting hot....ahhhh! So it runs great, but seems to get too hot at idle.....like 220+.
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What's your initial timing set at now?
Durandal25
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Set at 30 base at 12- 15...
Durandal25
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...well, the green stuff, copper, shroud, 180 stat,not super, no spacer......no Royal Purple ice.
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Does it look like the coolant is flowing good? I've seen rust break loose in newly rebuilt engines clog up a good radiator before....
Durandal25
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....this morning we replaced the old coolant with distilled water and the Water Wetter, with 15% green stuff and directed. I also added a spring in the lower rad hose....waiting for the temp to creep up before testing......will post after 1300 today.
Durandal25
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....so, the drive test went about as expiated. Car still got hot, but not quite as hot....as fast. So the Water Wetter worked a bit, but not as well as I would have thought....
Question about fan shroud: I noticed there is a bit of a gap between the top and bottom of the shroud....and there are two studs on each side to keep it off the radiator...was there a seal or gasket in there areas on a new car?
This came up recently and we (I) think that the gap is normal. Does the hood have the rubber strip that lays on the rad top? It seems a lot of this is ambient temps. Here at sea level, 80 degrees w/humidity at 15% (for us, not the car) my car runs great. At 5000 feet and 95 degrees it runs kinda weak and hotter without re-tuning it for conditions. Have a laser temp gun? Headers?
Durandal25
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....no headers, and I will laser it tomorrow. My gut tells me this is a tuning issue, even though the car seems to run great, but on switch off is does run on a bit and back-fires a bit..could be the heat.....but also I cut off the motor just after warm up.....same result....
So as far as I can determine, the car had no cooling issues until your mechanic retarded your timing, but doing so got rid of your 'pinging'? If that's correct, I would first slightly advance the timing (turn the distributor clockwise on a big block) a little at a time and road test. Keep advancing until the pinging comes back and then retard (counter clockwise) the distributor a bit and lock it down.
If your heat riser is stuck shut, yes, that can effect the engine temperature.
With the compression you're showing, and no valve clatter, your pushrod length should be fine.
Good luck. If you hang in there you'll get it solved.
PS: The pinging could be caused by something as simple as the advance springs in the distributor being 'tired', allowing too much mechanical advance too soon. Something to check if the other stuff doesn't pan out.
If your heat riser is stuck shut, yes, that can effect the engine temperature.
With the compression you're showing, and no valve clatter, your pushrod length should be fine.
Good luck. If you hang in there you'll get it solved.
PS: The pinging could be caused by something as simple as the advance springs in the distributor being 'tired', allowing too much mechanical advance too soon. Something to check if the other stuff doesn't pan out.
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