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New 440 tuning and adjustment questions

So as far as I can determine, the car had no cooling issues until your mechanic retarded your timing, but doing so got rid of your 'pinging'? If that's correct, I would first slightly advance the timing (turn the distributor clockwise on a big block) a little at a time and road test. Keep advancing until the pinging comes back and then retard (counter clockwise) the distributor a bit and lock it down.
If your heat riser is stuck shut, yes, that can effect the engine temperature.
With the compression you're showing, and no valve clatter, your pushrod length should be fine.
Good luck. If you hang in there you'll get it solved.

PS: The pinging could be caused by something as simple as the advance springs in the distributor being 'tired', allowing too much mechanical advance too soon. Something to check if the other stuff doesn't pan out.

....So.....one other possible issue here....he hooked the dizzy vacuum to the timed port vs. the manifold vacuum....I found this article that indicated this to be a huge issue for heat....

Ported Vacuum vs. Manifold Vacuum

I found this article while searching for good tech information on the comparison of ported vacuum versus manifold vacuum. I don't know the author so I can't give valid credit. ChevelleStuff.Net doesn't indorse either method and there is a lot of discussion as to which is better. So, I'll present the article and you, the reader, decide.

As many of you are aware, timing and vacuum advance is one of my favorite subjects, as I was involved in the development of some of those systems in my GM days and I understand it. Many people don't, as there has been very little written about it anywhere that makes sense, and as a result, a lot of folks are under the misunderstanding that vacuum advance somehow compromises performance. Nothing could be further from the truth. I finally sat down the other day and wrote up a primer on the subject, with the objective of helping more folks to understand vacuum advance and how it works together with initial timing and centrifugal advance to optimize all-around operation and performance.

TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101

The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency.

The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing" equation.

At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at 50mph).

When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean.

The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic.

Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.

If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more.

What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone.

Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15” Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15” Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will “dither” in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15” Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1”, preferably 2” of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8” of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam.

For peak engine performance, drivability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's about it – they don’t understand it, they're on commission, and they want to sell "race car" parts.
 
....so from what I've read, full vacuum is better than timed for RB due to heat issues
 
.......so changing the vacuum port made a noticeable difference.....car seems to run cooler
 
I've always experimented with both port and timed plus used mechanical dizzys before. Ran a mech dizzy on a fairly stock 70 383 Challenger for years and it did fine......
 
I've always experimented with both port and timed plus used mechanical dizzys before. Ran a mech dizzy on a fairly stock 70 383 Challenger for years and it did fine......

From what i've read, choosing the port above the plate causes heat loading....
 
I dunno.....I'm sure many of my cars were not tuned right but they did run pretty good probably because this blind squirrel found the right nuts :D
 
I dunno.....I'm sure many of my cars were not tuned right but they did run pretty good probably because this blind squirrel found the right nuts :D

......yeah, squirrels ate my nuts pretty good on this one. The way I see it, the issue with the rattle were the springs in the carb. Here's exactly what he did:

Changed out carb base gasket. had open hole gasket on bottom where there is a 4 hole phenolic spacer. changed that one to 4 hole and open at carb base.
Moved dist. vac line to ported side of carb not constant.
At start timing was at 20 and probably full advanced due to vac source.
Re set timing to 15 and backed out vac adv screw about 10 turns to get it to start working.
Total timing now should be around 30 but closer to 15 at idle. Book calls for 12 1/2 deg.
Changed mixture screws from 1 to 1.5 turns out. THey appear to have been screwed in too far and both had some pretty serious grooves in them. Seats may be damaged as well .I sanded the screws smooth and put them back in.
I changed the metering rod step up springs from orange to silver. ( stiffer )
I also correctly adjusted the throttle and kick down linkage.
Backed off idle from 900 to 700

Once the rad is checked and put back. If it's still running hot we can back the timing down some and see if we can get it to cool off.
The run on or deiseling is caused by the throttle plate still open in most cases.
What do you know about the PCV system ? does that fitting on the right valve cover have a check valve in it ? I didnt get to inspect it ? It sure looses a lot of vaccuum there ? If we can get that choked down we can close off the throttle plates some and get a better idle but as it is it's a super lean out problem and could cause heat too.
 
Starting at the top:
1) Idle mixture screws should be set using a vacuum gauge, not randomly adjusted, but only after the timing is set correctly.
2) Initial timing should be set at 15-20* with total timing at 34-36*, in by +-3,000 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
3) Try both ported and manifold vacuum. I use full manifold vacuum, but others will differ.
4) Yes, dieseling is caused by the idle being set too high.
5) The PCV valve in the right valve cover IS a restriction and a one way valve. Remove it and shake it. If it rattles it is OK. Make sure it's the correct valve for your motor. It matters.
6) Have you put a timing light on the motor and watched what happens when you are idling verses accelerating to about 3,000rpm?
7) As a test, you can remove the PCV valve, plug the vacuum hose and see what happens.
8) You might try to find a shop that has a distributor machine (concerned that yours only has 15* mechanical in it, not a bad thing, but not stock) and take yours to them to test and set up for your car. Not expensive and will rule out problems coming from it. Look for automotive machine shops or speed shops that have been around a long time.
Keep posting results. You'll get it whipped...
 
Shops with a distributor machine are like hens teeth these days. The only place I knew around here hung up his keys several moons ago.
 
Shops with a distributor machine are like hens teeth these days. The only place I knew around here hung up his keys several moons ago.

Yeah, I know. I used to have a Sun machine in my garage and gave it away for a song. Wish I had it now. Don at FBO may be the last guy in the universe....or not?
 
Any of you guys in Maryland looking for an income generator?
 
***** Update *******

Ok, so I advanced the timing abut 5 degrees and now it runs cooler.......so, all in all, the motor is running well and the main cause of the rattle were the carb springs.....go figure.
 
Sounds to me like you have a very small tuning window with timing and carb adjustment and I'm gonna bet that running temps will also play into it. My 71 340 Cuda was this way. It would run great and I could nail it on a hot summer day (95 out) so long as my water temp wasn't over 185 but once it was 190, pinging came into the game but adding just 1 gallon of av gas to top off a tank of 93 did the trick. I could play very hard once the av gas was in it! :D
 
Sounds to me like you have a very small tuning window with timing and carb adjustment and I'm gonna bet that running temps will also play into it. My 71 340 Cuda was this way. It would run great and I could nail it on a hot summer day (95 out) so long as my water temp wasn't over 185 but once it was 190, pinging came into the game but adding just 1 gallon of av gas to top off a tank of 93 did the trick. I could play very hard once the av gas was in it! :D

We'll first off, I want to thank all you mopar citizens for hanging in there with me for this build and install. My son and I got a ton out of it and the 440 turns heads just on the sound of her. We applied all the offered advice where needed and here we are with a restored 440 HP motor that most likely would have ended its life in a scrap yard.
 
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