New Stealth Heads or use the 452’s?

[65-440]

They are also quite a bit lighter.

Weight and heat dissipation, 2 big positives for me. I'd buy stealth again, I think some people have had a bad experience maybe when they first came out ? As for me I can't complain, $900 for a pair of assembled aluminum heads makes sense

 

[threewood]

I agree on having the 452's looked over. If they need guides and seats and other work it can quickly become as expensive as buying the new Stealth's (depending on the shop you work with). From what I have heard (everyone has heard some rumor or another) it is a good idea to upgrade to the 10 deg locks on the Stealth's just for cautions sake. Good luck with your build!

Agree. I had a few valve locks pulling through on a Hughes 3842 solid lifter cam with high spring pressures. It would be nice if they gave the option for 10 degree locks instead of the 7 degree locks.

 

[440beep]

Because all this engine building information is new to you, I'd recommend building your automotive library first so you have an idea what everyone is throwing out at you. Several of the responses here are kinda technical, and if you don't understand it, it's easy to get lost fast. The engine books usually will spell out the pitfalls like several members here have (i.e., cost of machining cast iron heads), and other pros and cons. Don't rush in to the engine build before you get some books and see what's all involved, and how one thing affects another thing. I've had my Super Bee for seven years, had two engine rebuilds, and I still open up my books to refresh my memory, double check something, or if contemplating a change.

Mancini Racing has a pretty good Mopar book collection.
https://www.manciniracing.com/eninasbo.html

And if you're in or near the NW Indiana area, I have a Mopar only engine builder for you, he's very very good. Most of the local Mopar guys have used him.

 

[747mopar]

No I don’t see where I said the guy who is building my shortblock doesn’t know which head to use. Can you point that out to me? Actually I believe he’s quite capable.

I’m not interested in digs on the guy building my engine, or my asking a question. Didn’t want to see this digress to that point. I admittedly don’t have the experience or knowledge of many here which is why I’m asking for opinions regarding the equipment.

Sorry, not trying to dig but when you state that he estimates the approximate CR then your discussing the build with him... not trying to dig but like IQ said he's a good one to ask instead of a bunch of guys who may or may not know. Having said that this board is full of great knowledge it's just figuring out who to listen to or who not to.

As I said before I'd start with getting a quote on your 452's. A set of low mileage heads can be as simple as lapping the valves but a well used set that's gotten moisture in them can end up being valves, guides, seats, surfacing, etc. A low mileage set can easily be done at home only costing you lapping compound and a valve spring compressor. These guys can correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is the Stealth's are a 906 copy??? There's little difference between 452's and 906's other than the 452's having hardened seats but the Stealth's are prone to have junk guide material, I've got a set with 3,000 miles on them with shot guides sitting in my garage right now.

I'd either stick to the iron or go with a good brand.

 

[lewtot184]

'452's vs stealths may depend on the combo. you want a driver? '452's can do that. do you want a pump gas driver you can reliably cruise in? '452's and KB184 pistons will work and be cheaper overall. looking for more power? that's more money and maybe the stealths with good flat top pistons, good intake, more cam are what you need. sometimes choices ain't fun.

 

[Bcamp69]

Sorry, not trying to dig but when you state that he estimates the approximate CR then your discussing the build with him... not trying to dig but like IQ said he's a good one to ask instead of a bunch of guys who may or may not know. Having said that this board is full of great knowledge it's just figuring out who to listen to or who not to.

As I said before I'd start with getting a quote on your 452's. A set of low mileage heads can be as simple as lapping the valves but a well used set that's gotten moisture in them can end up being valves, guides, seats, surfacing, etc. A low mileage set can easily be done at home only costing you lapping compound and a valve spring compressor. These guys can correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is the Stealth's are a 906 copy??? There's little difference between 452's and 906's other than the 452's having hardened seats but the Stealth's are prone to have junk guide material, I've got a set with 3,000 miles on them with shot guides sitting in my garage right now.

I'd either stick to the iron or go with a good brand.

I'm leaning towards keeping the 452's. I'll take them in and get a quote. I was told the engine had 23,000 or 50,000 on it I can't remember at the moment. I'm only interested in cruising with a good running strong engine. Some people on here make more power than I think I could use.

 

[Bcamp69]

'452's vs stealths may depend on the combo. you want a driver? '452's can do that. do you want a pump gas driver you can reliably cruise in? '452's and KB184 pistons will work and be cheaper overall. looking for more power? that's more money and maybe the stealths with good flat top pistons, good intake, more cam are what you need. sometimes choices ain't fun.

You nailed exactly what I'm looking for overall. I'm interested in a pump gas driver.

 

[Bcamp69]

Because all this engine building information is new to you, I'd recommend building your automotive library first so you have an idea what everyone is throwing out at you. Several of the responses here are kinda technical, and if you don't understand it, it's easy to get lost fast. The engine books usually will spell out the pitfalls like several members here have (i.e., cost of machining cast iron heads), and other pros and cons. Don't rush in to the engine build before you get some books and see what's all involved, and how one thing affects another thing. I've had my Super Bee for seven years, had two engine rebuilds, and I still open up my books to refresh my memory, double check something, or if contemplating a change.

Mancini Racing has a pretty good Mopar book collection.
https://www.manciniracing.com/eninasbo.html

And if you're in or near the NW Indiana area, I have a Mopar only engine builder for you, he's very very good. Most of the local Mopar guys have used him.

Muncie, Indiana, more east central but a 2-3 hour drive is not a big deal for me. I've learned more about engines in the last 2 years than I thought I'd ever know and some here are packing a lifetime of experience which is awesome. I'm trying to get the full experience with my car, sense of pride, accomplishment and whatnot, when it's all together. I'll check the book out for sure, I actually saw one on 440 source's website yesterday I was going to order. Nothing looks, smells, rides, or feels like and old roadrunner at 60mph down a country highway. Don't even need a radio. Just trying to get my hands a little dirty here.

 

[1967coronet440]

Because all this engine building information is new to you, I'd recommend building your automotive library first so you have an idea what everyone is throwing out at you. Several of the responses here are kinda technical, and if you don't understand it, it's easy to get lost fast. The engine books usually will spell out the pitfalls like several members here have (i.e., cost of machining cast iron heads), and other pros and cons. Don't rush in to the engine build before you get some books and see what's all involved, and how one thing affects another thing. I've had my Super Bee for seven years, had two engine rebuilds, and I still open up my books to refresh my memory, double check something, or if contemplating a change.

Mancini Racing has a pretty good Mopar book collection.
https://www.manciniracing.com/eninasbo.html

And if you're in or near the NW Indiana area, I have a Mopar only engine builder for you, he's very very good. Most of the local Mopar guys have used him.

Who’s the builder? I’m in crown point

 

[440beep]

Bobo

Who’s the builder? I’m in crown point

 

[haywire 440]

Does Bobo also set up rearends. I believe he replaced my Dana ring & pinion a few years ago.
Is he off rt.41?
Oh, I’m very happy with the Dana.

 

[440beep]

Yep, that’s Bobo. He offered to rebuild my Dana also (if it comes to that).

Does Bobo also set up rearends. I believe he replaced my Dana ring & pinion a few years ago.
Is he off rt.41?
Oh, I’m very happy with the Dana.

 

[lewtot184]

You nailed exactly what I'm looking for overall. I'm interested in a pump gas driver.

I've got two pump gas drivers. one is a '906 heads/kb184 piston stocker, and the other is edelbrock head/icon piston, quads, mech cam, headers. big difference in money and power but enjoy driving either.

 

[haywire 440]

Excuse me, Bcamp69, I don’t mean to side track your subject. I had 906 heads ported by my machine shop neighbor who just kind of cleaned and gasket match them for $200. But he was a big block chevy guy.
Before I even used them I took em to an mopar (?) engine machine shop and they said the neighbor really didn’t do much and he did them again for a cost of over $500. They’re on my 440 now and do run well, on the street. Also had the cost of the valve job etc, before all of that. I’m sure aluminum heads were suggested to me but I’m a hard head and wanted to use what I had. Right or wrong decision doesn’t really matter as long as I learn and have fun. It’s only money. Best of luck/fun with yours.

 

[dla4567]

Always built my own engines but have dealt with many machine shops. Usually drop things off, come back when finished, pay at counter and pick up parts. Get home and find out thing are wrong more often than right.
My current machinist and his dad have been building racing engines for many years. I can stop over with a case of beer and discuss options and prices with them and maybe a couple other guys for hours. Things always turn out as expected and every body is happy.
My point is having a good relationship with your engine guy is priceless.
Plan your work and work your plan.

 

[TetanusShot]

Muncie, Indiana, more east central but a 2-3 hour drive is not a big deal for me. I've learned more about engines in the last 2 years than I thought I'd ever know and some here are packing a lifetime of experience which is awesome. I'm trying to get the full experience with my car, sense of pride, accomplishment and whatnot, when it's all together. I'll check the book out for sure, I actually saw one on 440 source's website yesterday I was going to order. Nothing looks, smells, rides, or feels like and old roadrunner at 60mph down a country highway. Don't even need a radio. Just trying to get my hands a little dirty here.

I'm pretty close to ya, a bit south of Berne. Who's your engine guy? I've got itemized receipts from C&P Machine in FT Wayne & Bill Smith Motorsports in Yorktown if you'd like to see what they charge.

I had C&P rebuild a set of iron 915 heads, & I had Bill Smith bore+hone, balance rotating assembly, & resize factory rods on my Hemi.

 

[747mopar]

Always built my own engines but have dealt with many machine shops. Usually drop things off, come back when finished, pay at counter and pick up parts. Get home and find out thing are wrong more often than right.
My current machinist and his dad have been building racing engines for many years. I can stop over with a case of beer and discuss options and prices with them and maybe a couple other guys for hours. Things always turn out as expected and every body is happy.
My point is having a good relationship with your engine guy is priceless.
Plan your work and work your plan.

Same here minus the beer, I build all of my own and have been using the same shop for better than 15 years with no problems.

'452's vs stealths may depend on the combo. you want a driver? '452's can do that. do you want a pump gas driver you can reliably cruise in? '452's and KB184 pistons will work and be cheaper overall. looking for more power? that's more money and maybe the stealths with good flat top pistons, good intake, more cam are what you need. sometimes choices ain't fun.

Sounds a lot like my present combo, 452 heads only with some porting and larger valves using KB pistons and a .501 lift cam. Mild but a really nice strong running motor that's happy cruising at low rpm's. Of coarse once you start putting different size valves in them then porting $$$$.

 

[Bcamp69]

I'm pretty close to ya, a bit south of Berne. Who's your engine guy? I've got itemized receipts from C&P Machine in FT Wayne & Bill Smith Motorsports in Yorktown if you'd like to see what they charge.

I had C&P rebuild a set of iron 915 heads, & I had Bill Smith bore+hone, balance rotating assembly, & resize factory rods on my Hemi.

It appears I’m about 5 minutes away from Bill Smith. I typically tell people Muncie as a reference it’s usually more recognizable than Yorktown and I grew up in Muncie, but I’m in Yorktown. I’m curious how much the work on your 915’s cost. My guy is on vacation this week so I won’t be able to talk to him about my 452 heads until next week. Wes Russell (Russell Racing Engines & Fabrication) is doing my rotating assembly.

 

[TetanusShot]

It appears I’m about 5 minutes away from Bill Smith. I typically tell people Muncie as a reference it’s usually more recognizable than Yorktown and I grew up in Muncie, but I’m in Yorktown. I’m curious how much the work on your 915’s cost. My guy is on vacation this week so I won’t be able to talk to him about my 452 heads until next week. Wes Russell (Russell Racing Engines & Fabrication) is doing my rotating assembly.

My itemized receipt is at home and I'm at my work computer, but I can post it up Monday if I don't forget. I've got the total cost for the head work on an excel sheet here though.

$200 initial purchase of the heads
$687 headwork
$ 70 exhaust valves
$0 valve stem seals from my brother
$0 re-use springs off another set of heads
$7 can of engine paint

I should note, my heads had small 1.60" exhaust valves that I upgraded to 1.74". Yours already have that size from the factory. Machining my heads for new seats, installing new seats, machining the seats, & the cost of buying new exhaust valves, all added to my total cost.

So:
$964 my heads vs.
$1068 for aluminum stealths ($499 * 2 heads * 1.07 sales tax)

BUT

I would suspect new stealths would need checked over by a reputable shop before installing them = $. I would consider mine 'ready to run'. Your 452's should be cheaper to rebuild than mine.

 

[67Satty]

I have a pair of stock rebuild, unported 452s on my Satellite. They've been good enough to propel my 3600 pound car to 7.80s in the 1/8 which would be like mid to low 12s in the quarter. So I'd say your 452s are good enough for a strong street cruiser. However, if you think you might ever want to take your car to the dragstrip, I'd say just pick out some aluminum heads now. Once you start making passes at the dragstrip, even just for fun a few times a year at test and tunes like I do, you want to go quicker and faster and you'll be kicking yourself for not spending a little more to not leave power on the table. I'm looking at getting some 84cc Edelbrock E Streets because they have straight plugs that will work with my Hooker headers and flow about the same as Edelbrock RPMs and a little bit better than Stealths for not much more money and I won't have to do a bunch of grinding to use my 3/8" pushrods (like I would have to do with Stealths).