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No start - very weak spark

You need 4 PINS Ignition Module if your running a SINGLE ballast resistor

Maybe its fake or not functional. Assuming I mistaken and I have a functional 4 pin, any other clues?

What information do you need or I can provide?
 
Snap us some pictures of your ECU Ignition Module and your Ballast Resistor installed the way you have it now

I can tell you if it’s a real transistor / fake heat sink and I want to see your ballast

Thanx
 
Snap us some pictures of your ECU Ignition Module and your Ballast Resistor installed the way you have it now

I can tell you if it’s a real transistor / fake heat sink and I want to see your ballast

Thanx

It's raining, so pictures might have to wait.
 
5 pin, single terminal ballast

Is what you said

confirm indeed five pins , not four
Yes it's a five pins. Five wires.

It's set up like the Mopar performance conversion.

Just because five wires , doesn’t mean your ignition module is five pins

All those plugs where five wires



You won’t know until you pull the plug off the ignition module itself

Honestly you don’t see many factory five pin ignition modules anymore , but that’s what you stated five pins , not four

During my testing I took the connection off. 5 pins.

Do I need five pins? I don't know. I didn't set up this conversion.

Did you read my posts

Did you read his posts

He is running a FIVE pin ignition module with a SINGLE ballast resistor

You need 4 PINS Ignition Module if your running a SINGLE ballast resistor

Assuming I mistaken and I have a functional 4 pin, any other clues?

What information do you need or I can provide?
Holy Schnikey
Take a look at the thing already
 
Holy Schnikey
Take a look at the thing already
The previous owner had quite a few spare parts in in the trunk. For good measure I installed the 4-pin from the trunk and retested everything. Same results as before.

IMG20250601152157.jpg


IMG20250601152324.jpg


IMG20250601152347.jpg


IMG20250601152428.jpg
 
The previous owner had quite a few spare parts in in the trunk. For good measure I installed the 4-pin from the trunk and retested everything. Same results as before.

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Looking at your pic's, much shoe maker-ing by the previous owner....giving rise to the fact that some people should NOT BE ALLOWED to open the hood....maybe just to check the oil.....to be relegated to washing and waxing the car....period........just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
 
Looking at your pic's, much shoe maker-ing by the previous owner....giving rise to the fact that some people should NOT BE ALLOWED to open the hood....maybe just to check the oil.....to be relegated to washing and waxing the car....period........just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

Very helpful, amazing feedback. Thank you for your expertise.

It's far from a lost cause.
 
Check the basics. Unplug the ECU, then with ignition on, use a jumper to touch / tap the coil negative (-) to ground. You should get a good spark from the coil. Not sure where you are checking spark from, but bad ignition wires can be a problem if checking at end if wires.

Also, Make sure ECU case has a good ground to the block.

If battery cables are questionable condition, replace them.
 
Check the basics. Unplug the ECU, then with ignition on, use a jumper to touch / tap the coil negative (-) to ground. You should get a good spark from the coil. Not sure where you are checking spark from, but bad ignition wires can be a problem if checking at end if wires.

Also, Make sure ECU case has a good ground to the block.

If battery cables are questionable condition, replace them.

It's actively raining but as soon as it lets up all put a jumper wire on the coil.

The control module is definitely grounded.

And the battery cables are an acceptable condition.
 
Please translate: Holy Schnikey......never heard this expression b4......
BOB RENTON
It's open to translation, unfortunately that's not everyone's fortè
 
Check the basics. Unplug the ECU, then with ignition on, use a jumper to touch / tap the coil negative (-) to ground. You should get a good spark from the coil. Not sure where you are checking spark from, but bad ignition wires can be a problem if checking at end if wires.

Also, Make sure ECU case has a good ground to the block.

If battery cables are questionable condition, replace them.

Well........sooooo um I was able to get some spark, but I pretty sure the distributor reluctor / rotor should not be able to spin freely.
 
Well........sooooo um I was able to get some spark, but I pretty sure the distributor reluctor / rotor should not be able to spin freely.

If it is spinning on the shaft, it sounds like it is missing the keeper pin, or the pin might have sheared off or worked its way out of the groove.

Screenshot 2025-06-03 9.21.49 PM.png


Screenshot 2025-06-03 9.26.35 PM.png



reluctor_inst.jpg
 
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And what exactly is " shoe maker-ing" ??
The term is applicable to those that do not know the correct methodology for re repairs but just slap dashing things together with no rhyme or reason and hoping for the best...looks not with standing....a slang expression.....
BOB RENTON
 
The term is applicable to those that do not know the correct methodology for re repairs but just slap dashing things together with no rhyme or reason and hoping for the best...looks not with standing....a slang expression.....
BOB RENTON
That's interesting, I've known quite a few custom shoe makers and it is fairly intricate skill.
 
I think " cobbled" is the term you were looking for. As in, a cobbler repairs pre- existing shoes that a shoe maker has made.
 
I think " cobbled" is the term you were looking for. As in, a cobbler repairs pre- existing shoes that a shoe maker has made.
It's a Western Pennsylvania colloquial expression......with several meanings, depending on one's ethnic background.....????....with various degrees of intensity and "righteousness"..........
BOB RENTON
 
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