Odd cooling issue. Would appreciate input

[j-c-c-62]

If you’re not worried about stock appearance, you could get some electric cooling fans that will stay on when the car is shut off until the car cools down.

I wonder if this is a solution that may worsen the OP's situation. Being if the engine and the thermostat are still hot after shut off, and the radiator water has been cooled by the delayed electric fans to ambient temps, the first water that the hot engine will see after a quick shut off will be a big slug of relatively cold water until the thermostat can close, and that cannot be ideal.

 

[OMTWF-72SE]

My 72, 10 mins after shutdown is hot as ****. Not rad cap blow hot, but gurgle gurgle hot. Get a laser thermometer and check how hot that block gets once the water pump isn't moving.

 

[Virg464]

Just shooting in the dark here: is there another crank that would fit a 383 block but be from an earlier smaller displacement engine, 273/361, that might have smaller crank flange holes?

 

[autoxcuda]

It doesn’t seem far of now.

Does it have a fan shroud yet?

Put one on, it will help at slow speeds and some all around. Make sure it seal to your aftermarket radio well. Add insulation foam if not.

 

[MikeyM]

Hey all,

I'm sorry, I completely missed the last few replies.

Virg - I'm not sure where you're coming from when you mention the smaller crank flange holes. I am considering taking this engine to a 383/439(ish) stroker with this block but the car is numbers matching so I'm still on the fence about that. Part of me says f*ck it and just do it. The other part says "keep that engine as-is and drop a built 440 into it".

OMT - that's a good idea. I CAN say that today after a flogging (test) run down the highway for about 6 miles, the engine never got over 180*. BUT when I shut it down and come back - 10 mins later - it's damn near pegging the temp gauge. However, when I fire it up, it quickly starts to come back down into the "normal" range, then right back to 180 after I get some air moving through the radiator. I do the flogging runs close to home so I can see what needs attention and if I break down (which has happened for fairly minor stuff) it's a close rescue mission. For those who don't know, this car is new to me for the last 5 months and has been "revived" after sitting for 18 or so years so I'm trying to see what needs attention, then address as needed so I am trying to gently bring it back into daily, reliable service.

Autox - no fan shroud yet but I know I need one and have the one for my car ready to order... just need approval from Finance. When you say "seal the radiator", with foam or whatever, do you mean like the gaps between the radiator and mounting area, shroud and radiator, or all of that? I do have a little gap on both sides between the radiator support and the radiator itself.

Thanks,
Mikey

 

[Virg464]

Hey all,

I'm sorry, I completely missed the last few replies.

Virg - I'm not sure where you're coming from when you mention the smaller crank flange holes. I am considering taking this engine to a 383/439(ish) stroker with this block but the car is numbers matching so I'm still on the fence about that. Part of me says f*ck it and just do it. The other part says "keep that engine as-is and drop a built 440 into it".

OMT - that's a good idea. I CAN say that today after a flogging (test) run down the highway for about 6 miles, the engine never got over 180*. BUT when I shut it down and come back - 10 mins later - it's damn near pegging the temp gauge. However, when I fire it up, it quickly starts to come back down into the "normal" range, then right back to 180 after I get some air moving through the radiator. I do the flogging runs close to home so I can see what needs attention and if I break down (which has happened for fairly minor stuff) it's a close rescue mission. For those who don't know, this car is new to me for the last 5 months and has been "revived" after sitting for 18 or so years so I'm trying to see what needs attention, then address as needed.

Autox - no fan shroud yet but I know I need one and have the one for my car ready to order... just need approval from Finance. When you say "seal the radiator", with foam or whatever, do you mean like the gaps between the radiator and mounting area, shroud and radiator, or all of that? I do have a little gap on both sides between the radiator support and the radiator itself.

Thanks,
Mik

My bad (fat fingers), I was supposed to be replying to another post, Oops!

 

[autoxcuda]

Hey all,

I'm sorry, I completely missed the last few replies.

Virg - I'm not sure where you're coming from when you mention the smaller crank flange holes. I am considering taking this engine to a 383/439(ish) stroker with this block but the car is numbers matching so I'm still on the fence about that. Part of me says f*ck it and just do it. The other part says "keep that engine as-is and drop a built 440 into it".

OMT - that's a good idea. I CAN say that today after a flogging (test) run down the highway for about 6 miles, the engine never got over 180*. BUT when I shut it down and come back - 10 mins later - it's damn near pegging the temp gauge. However, when I fire it up, it quickly starts to come back down into the "normal" range, then right back to 180 after I get some air moving through the radiator. I do the flogging runs close to home so I can see what needs attention and if I break down (which has happened for fairly minor stuff) it's a close rescue mission. For those who don't know, this car is new to me for the last 5 months and has been "revived" after sitting for 18 or so years so I'm trying to see what needs attention, then address as needed so I am trying to gently bring it back into daily, reliable service.

Autox - no fan shroud yet but I know I need one and have the one for my car ready to order... just need approval from Finance. When you say "seal the radiator", with foam or whatever, do you mean like the gaps between the radiator and mounting area, shroud and radiator, or all of that? I do have a little gap on both sides between the radiator support and the radiator itself.

Thanks,
Mikey

All gaps.

If it just has a stock system with high flow pump, you will be fine.

And I would have no problem stroking the 383 to 439 or 470. The aftermarket rods and lighter stroker pistons will actually have less rotating weight than a stock 383. Actually easier things. If it under 525-550 hp that even added safety factor.