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Open Rear end questions

FROSTBITE

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Location
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Im planning on putting a numerically higher ratio in my 1973 satellite, thats near stock and taking it drag racing this summer and just having fun with it. Maybe 3.55? But was planning on leaving it open. Thoughts?
 
It can be made to work with some experimentation. I did it in the early 70's by preloading the chassis. There's many ways to do it....extra leafs on the right side and tighten up the left side torsion bar. Another option is one air shock on the right rear instead of extra leafs. It should only need 10-15 psi. You'd have to experiment. You could try to just clamp the right side leaf spring and see if that would help. Place some weight on the right side of the trunk like a battery should help....or a combination of some or all of the above. For one car I had, 50 lbs on the right side of the trunk did the trick. Keep in mind that both rear tires should be equal in size (roll out) and inflation. Also keep in mind that even tho this works pretty good, there will be times when the rear will lose traction and one tire will bite and the other won't. That's when a SureGrip is worth it's weight in dollars X's 7 :D
 
WHY ? If your going to take the gear out and set up a new set why not just put a posi or locker in it at this time ???
For the little extra cash your saveing the labor !
 
If you're runnin a tall enough tire I'd go with a 3.91 and most definetly a posi. I had one in my Dobie and it moved that tank off the line nice.
 
Yeah, im just going to get a sure grip unit, some used ones on ebay im watching now. Just wasnt sure if a 318 would even have the power to justify one
 
How bout a 72 318 Demon with 115k miles on the short block that runs 13.50 @ 102 mph? It was blowing the ET streets off when it hit 2nd gear! Yeah, your car is much heavier so it'll like a set of deeper gears. If it's a toy and not used as a daily driver, go with a set of big gears. Small small blocks don't have much torque to speak of and a heavy car needs it so the only way to get it is with gearing.
 
Like Cranky says all the way. 4:10 is good as a small block will twist real good in that pocket !
 
Back in the day, we could get a open diff. to put equal torque to both axles and it was pretty easy. They were "Air Lift" brand thick walled air bags made of rubber with a valve stem in them. On a coil spring rear axle, you just take the shocks loose at one end, lower the axle to get wider spacing between the coils and stuff them in with the valve stem at the bottom. Put the shock back on , Put air in them. We did that to get the back end up( that was the look then) you could adjust the air pressure in the right side bag to pre- load that side and burn rubber on both sides equally. I think they still make them, with brackets to put on leaf springs. They worked much better than air shocks......................MO
 
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