Opening up the wallet

[Adam Nathan]

Just done my last show of the season now it's time to spend some cash.
Finally pulling out the old camshaft and putting in something better. It's been on the cards for ages now but been putting it off as never wanted to pull the car off the road but enoughs enough.
She's getting a new steering box all new ball joints upper/lower, tie rods inner/outer, idler arm, sway bar bushes, strut rod bushes, lower/upper control arm bushes, bump stops, fuel pump, oil pump, cam shaft, lifters, pushrods, springs, caps, collets, timing chain, sprockets, carb rebuild and a new auto meter oil and temp gauge. Just completed my order at summits this evening so parts are on there way.
Looks like I'm gonna have to do some overtime at work but hey can't wait to notice the difference.

- - - Updated - - -

Going with the comp cams extreme energy kit.
Compared to the limp dick cam I've just taken out that didn't like going over 4000 it should wake the old girl right up.
All ARP fixings and a nice fresh coat of Chrysler orange paint.
Looking forward to that first drive. Just got a **** load of cleaning and prep and beer to drink before I get there.

 

[Lionized]

Have fun man! Keep us updated.

 

[WP29440SE]

good times !

 

[kiwigtx]

Good start so far Adam. :headbang:

 

[Adam Nathan]

The clean up has begun and the first of the parts just arrived this evening. Can't beat opening up a box of goodies.

 

[Budnicks]

Look's
Like Christmas in August...
have fun

 

[Cranky]

What cam was in it before? Even a stock cam should push well over 4000 rpm. Are you going to degree in the new cam?

 

[Budnicks]

Are you going to do something with the heads/valves/especially the ports,
while you have them off ??

There's allot of room to gain some usable HP/TQ there too,
stock cast iron BB Wedge heads, are probably the biggest choke point,
power robbers or places to make up power on a BB Mopar engine...

Best $$$ you can spend... especially if your adding a bigger cam etc.

There's allot of books on the subject, Cylinder-head Porting, Pocket porting, un-shroud the valves, smooth out the radiuses sharp edges, casting lines {especially short side radiuses}, also gasket match, both the intake manifold & heads intake ports, blend in about an inch or so...
You don't have to go crazy, the ports don't really have to be big or hogged out, just a little bench time & a peanut grinder with a carbide tip & some abrasive rolls {wear safety glasses}, clean up the rough casting & flash in the exhaust ports too, make all the transitions smooth, make sure stay away from the hitting nicking the valve seats...

A good professional "performance style" multi-angle valve job, won't hurt or cost much either...

Maybe some good adjustable rockers & shafts, with proper length/style push-rods too...

The stock cast iron exhaust manifolds/even the HP manifolds are power robbers too,
they can be ported & cleaned up some also, but a quality set of headers,
will really wake up the engine & let it breath much better too...

Just food for thought, it doesn't need to be race car stuff, just way more efficient...

good luck

 

[ma mopar nutz]

Have fun just like Christmas wooohoooo:headbang:

 

[MT_Mopar]

The clean up has begun and the first of the parts just arrived this evening. Can't beat opening up a box of goodies.

Looking good Adam!

View attachment 203775

 

[Adam Nathan]

What cam was in it before? Even a stock cam should push well over 4000 rpm. Are you going to degree in the new cam?

Will post the durations of the old cam. When I measured it briefly the other night after I removed it, it turned out to be a real wet cam.
My little old ford fiesta has a wilder cam lol.

 

[Adam Nathan]

Are you going to do something with the heads/valves/especially the ports,
while you have them off ??

There's allot of room to gain some usable HP/TQ there too,
stock cast iron BB Wedge heads, are probably the biggest choke point,
power robbers or places to make up power on a BB Mopar engine...

Best $$$ you can spend... especially if your adding a bigger cam etc.

There's allot of books on the subject, Cylinder-head Porting, Pocket porting, un-shroud the valves, smooth out the radiuses sharp edges, casting lines {especially short side radiuses}, also gasket match, both the intake manifold & heads intake ports, blend in about an inch or so...
You don't have to go crazy, the ports don't really have to be big or hogged out, just a little bench time & a peanut grinder with a carbide tip & some abrasive rolls {wear safety glasses}, clean up the rough casting & flash in the exhaust ports too, make all the transitions smooth, make sure stay away from the hitting nicking the valve seats...

A good professional "performance style" multi-angle valve job, won't hurt or cost much either...

Maybe some good adjustable rockers & shafts, with proper length/style push-rods too...

The stock cast iron exhaust manifolds/even the HP manifolds are power robbers too,
they can be ported & cleaned up some also, but a quality set of headers,
will really wake up the engine & let it breath much better too...

Just food for thought, it doesn't need to be race car stuff, just way more efficient...

good luck

Hey budnicks I think you should come on over to the UK for a little holiday and come give me a hand. Beers and steaks are on me mate. Hell I've even take you on over to buck palace for a few colds ones with her maj if ya like lol.

Plan is to mildly clean up the ports on the heads yes. Was never the plan to go mental on the car, I'm using the stock HP cast manifolds anyway, never been a huge fan of headers I've always loved the stock look of a car
I just wanna clean everything up and inspect whilst it's apart and do whatever can be done in house whilst on the bench. So yes some polishing will be done.
Someone has had a multi angle valve cut done at some point along with hardened valve seats.
But the main thing I want to do is to just sort out the suspension. It's like driving a jelly at the moment lol.