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opinions please....

I already did. The trunk lid ends at the back edge where it's unfinished, everything below that is welded in place. the lights are permanent all the way across. the lid above them opens. I still have to fabricate the latch and the surface that the seal rests on, on the underside of the lid.
That looks awesome ghostrider, are you going to modify the trunk lid so you don't have to cut the tail lites. I mean make the tail lite section like the 70 roadrunner or chargers. I can see it but can't explain it, because of the way the trunk latches you will need to separate the inside from the outside I can see your fabrication skills and know you could pull it off. Either way it's looking great, keep the pictures coming.

NO wing! Yes Apache Longbow gunships is what I did in the military but no wing on this car.
 
Thanks! It turned out pretty much like I planned it. I need to do a bunch of fine tuning to it to make it perfect but the basic metalwork is done. I'm going back up to the salvage yard and scrounge some more tail light outer lens trim parts so I can use them to fabricate two center pieces to go above and below the middle lens because the OEM pieces are different so they can mate up with the tail light doors on the 66 T-Bird. I need the trim to match all of the way around. I have it on there now but the top one is a cut down OEM piece and the lower one is one I hammered out of some scrap. Once the car is finished and painted and everything I'll buy some new lenses to put in it.
Really, I pretty much remanufactured the entire rear face of the car. Fun stuff!
That's way cool ghostrider.
 
Yah, no wing is a done deal. I just wanted to be sure. I'm not a wing sort of guy unless the car warrants having one. Also, I did go back to the salvage yard and couldn't find another piece of the correct trim. Gahhh! I did, however, find a T Bird of the 1970's variety and took the trim panel from the rear of it. There is a section of it that I might be able to fabricate into what I need if I am careful.
 
I'm with the no wing crew but what about a spoiler? Split a Camaro spoiler and leave the center open. Maybe shorten it? Or even fab one out of metal and make it the height of the outside of the quarter panel. Just some thoughts I had rolling around......
 
Someone else suggested that too, about one the same as the quarter panel height. My issue with that is that if you look at the back of the Express, the body from the top of the bumper to the top of the quarter panels is bigger vertically than the '70 bumper. Adding a chunk across the deck would make it look even more out of balance. However, as it has been pointed out to me by others, it would only seem that way from the rear. any other angle would be ok. I have been sketching out different looks and so far cant dream up one that I would be able to tolerate.
I'm with the no wing crew but what about a spoiler? Split a Camaro spoiler and leave the center open. Maybe shorten it? Or even fab one out of metal and make it the height of the outside of the quarter panel. Just some thoughts I had rolling around......
Plus..lol, that car has beautiful lines and i'm trying real hard not to mess them up any more than I have to.
 
Unplanned mods...sigh.

So..after cleaning up the passenger inner fender and getting it primed, and after tweaking the tail light mount and inside the trunk, and getting that all primed, I ran out of welding wire.
So today I took a look at cutting out the rotten places in the passenger floor and made two big holes. I'm going to make my own pans, this car has undercoating on the bottom.
The cross member and frame rail seem to be in good shape. I also got interested in the doors and how the Audi panels might go on them. Turns out they wont. So I then thought about blending the '67 stuff and the 2002 Audi stuff. I took all of the Audi stuff off of the door panel and tried different combinations of stuff and different placements. The doors will be all power everything.
What I came up with is to use the Audi armrest/pull handle/window switch/lighted ashtray, over top of the '67 armrest base. I noticed that the Audi armrest inside width is the same as the outside width of the '67 base minus the outer rim. I used a cutoff wheel and trimmed to fit. After several times back and forth finessing the edges I came up with what you see here.
The '67 door panel( which will get new material cover w/ two tone), the '67 base ( which will be repainted one of the panel colors), the '67 door opening handle and base( with the chrome pull upside down). So, you can grab the Audi pull handle area and slide your finger(s) behind the upside down handle and pull to unlatch the door. There are two Bose Audi Symphony speakers in each door( means i have 4 sets because the Audi was a wagon w/ 4 doors) a small 1 1/2 inch and a 5 inch. I will be scouting the best location for those, the little one up high and forward the big one down low. The second set will go to the rear of the interior somewhere.
There is a wood grain insert that aligns with the dash curve as it comes to the door and I will need to figure that out, again i have 4 doors from the Audi wagon, all with all of these things on them.
The bottom of the Audi doors have the speaker, a CD control panel and a tilt out compartment. This unit is about 5 inches thick and is inset in the Audi door whereas the '67 door is flat. So I'm going to slide the glass back in and the window crank assembly and see where that lies so I can see what i have for space that I can cut a space for the unit to slide into the door some and so reduce how far it sticks out into the cabin. The issue is the seats plus the console does not leave a lot of room on either side. It will be a close shave so I will have to study that some. I'd like to use them but if not I'll live. I decided that since I am NOT going to use the Audi panels I can trim the dash some more and move it forward a few inches maybe. Gotta see how the heat/AC unit fits up to the firewall first. I included a pic of the Audi interior so you get an idea what the doors look like. There are a couple of small courtesy lights too, a red and a white that will go red on the back edge of the door facing the rear and the white on the bottom of the door facing the ground.

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I also installed the support channel steel on the inside of the hood frame. This gives me some meat to bolt the forward tilt hinges to and the support for the back of the hood as it comes up. I pulled some gas lift rods from a big wagon in the salvage yard and they will go on the hood. Another set on the trunk. I got it primed and now need to clean up and prime the hood skin and sandwich them back together.

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Interesting, I like the ideas

keep up the good progress

Ok your making me feel bad, because I'm procrastinating on mine lately {saving up}
& I'm not trying to do, anywhere near what you are...LOL
 
Sorry dude. Almost all of the stuff I do has been with used parts, salvage yard finds, and small amounts of cash less than $200 bucks and most of that came from selling parts. I'm at a standstill at the moment as I ran out of welding wire. I found that the upper section of the Audi door panel works fine with my door and the present location of the dash. So i'm leaving the dash as is. I will have to fabricate an additional piece to extend the upper Audi panel all the way to the back end of the '67 door. It's about 4 inches short. When I do i'll try to incorporate the upper rear door speaker into it and come down and sweep forward to blend into the flip out storage section. Here's some pics of the upper Audi door panel on the '67 as a mock up..notice that there are two door handles to open the door with,, one Audi and the '67 one behind the armrest. The Audi one will be inoperative, just there for looks. The '67 one is pretty much hidden and i'll be adding a small plate above it to mask it even further from view. The Audi panel has a small open area at the front end that just so happens to match up with the wing window lever. Cool. This is another reason not to move the dash forward.

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Does the vent window open in ok? Also have you test fitted your legs in there?
 
I have test fitted my legs and you have good room. the seats are set back about 5 inches from stock. The are also 10 way power buckets so can be lowered down. The wing window will work once I get done fooling around with the panel. lol. i have to change it a bit to get room to swing. The pic is just the panel kinda hanging there but it will have to be modified, Good eye!!
Does the vent window open in ok? Also have you test fitted your legs in there?

Plus the '67 is a lot bigger than the Audi that the interior came out of.
 
Cool beans man, what about under the dash? are you going to use the stock heater box or try to fit the audi version? I see some test fit speakers in there too lol good time to get those nailed down, also what about the A pillar? audi one or stock one? or custom? Sooo many questions so little time lol looks great so for though can't wait to see the final product! If this goes well and shows good you could be on to something big here. wish you were closer would like to come over and help.
 
Wish YOU were closer so that you could come over and help! I have the complete Audi heat/A/C set up that I will use. I have everything from the firewall back to the rear doors from the Audi. The issue about the heat/ac is that the Audi has a 6-7 inch high square topped center hump that the heat unit , console, e brake assembly etc all set on. I have to get the dash exactly positioned where it will be so i can then measure fir the height of said hump and fabricate it. I have the steering wheel assy worked out provisionally but need to extend the shaft from the firewall to the steering box somehow. I'm also waiting for the pedals and everything else under there to be in place before I decide where to place the snakes nest of cabling the computerized Audi stuff needs to live again. There is a TON more room under there than the Audi had so that leaves room for the wiper motor under the dash as well as the brake master cylinder. Everything else on the firewall is going on the upper horizontal deck of the inner fenders inside the engine compartment and will be hidden by custom fabbed coverings. Lots to do yet!
Cool beans man, what about under the dash? are you going to use the stock heater box or try to fit the audi version? I see some test fit speakers in there too lol good time to get those nailed down, also what about the A pillar? audi one or stock one? or custom? Sooo many questions so little time lol looks great so for though can't wait to see the final product! If this goes well and shows good you could be on to something big here. wish you were closer would like to come over and help.
 
On the pillar issue i have all of the chrome trim i took off of this car and it's in excellent shape. I also have both fabric covered pillar covers from the Audi. I'm planning to stick a chrome on up there to see how it fits in relation to the dash. There's a hole to each end of the dash about 4 inches wide next to the pillar. The Audi was a little narrower. So there will be some fabrication there i suppose. I'm planning to place a section across the dash front edge just next to the glass the same as a 2016 Audi TT has on it's dash. It's kinda a little narrow shelf that flows down into each door as a contour line of sight for the interior. It doesn't DO anything but looks nice. That will cover the holes a good bit on both ends. As it happens one of my good buddies that lives a few miles away further up the mountain is retiring this week after 35 years working on Audi's. He's my go to guy for everything Audi.
Today I got some more welding wire and fabricated a floor panel for the rear section of the passenger floor. I have about 2/3rds welded in place. I was kneeling on it to weld and it feels real solid. Once i get the front section nailed down ill tape off the dash and prime/seal the whole interior cabin. I also got in the mail the low temp Super Alloy One welding rods and flux to stitch up the tail extensions that are pot metal.
 
MuggyWeld Super Alloy 1 update...

MuggyWeld Super Alloy 1 update...

Ok, i got the rods and flux in the mail and have been trying to get the hang of using them. I finally was able to get good results today. You all might remember that I decided to use a 1970 RR rear bumper on the Express and that i sliced it in half to lengthen it. I also sliced into the quarter extensions to re curve them inwards to match the up sweeping contour of the bumper ends. Well the left extension had a big chunk missing from the bottom corner because i dropped the damn thing and the right is a replacement that needed to still be re curved. So used the stuff to build up the area that was missing on the left one, it took two sessions, and sanded it out to the curved shape i need. So good so far. The right side i sliced into, cutting a wedge shape out and bending the outer wall in to meet the edge. I bonded them together and then trimmed the excess off of the outside bottom, leaving a pencil eraser sized spot to fill. I filled it and sanded it all down.
The right has a contour line that the left is missing. I will create that soft line with filler because re heating that area to add more material will see me starting all over again because the repair will melt too.

Pro's: easy to use, melts quickly and can be spread about using the heat from the propane torch carefully to regulate the melting of the material to different states of softness, flux works to help spread the material around and to smooth it out too. using a propane torch, bonds great to pot metal.

Cons: deadly fumes. Not cheap, learning curve uses up materials.

All in all at the end of the day I have two extensions that are now usable that would have been discarded or possibly rigged together some other way less desirable.

I say thumbs up to this product. The fumes were overcome by placing a fan at my right elbow blowing across the work area towards the open garage door. I had no issues at all. That's not to say that a week from now my wiener wont fall off but u get the idea. Ha ha.

Be careful! Happy Brazing on your pot metal repairs....READ THE LITERATURE AND WATCH THE VIDEOS ON THE WEBSITE FIRST. WHILE THIS STUFF WORKS IT IS ALSO DANGEROUS!!!!!!

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That interior looks pretty slick but I think it'll clash with any original panel....... I'd go all new or all old? Lots going on here, keep after it Ghost cause this ones going to be one worth looking at haha. Cool stuff
 
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