I asked for hoses with springs when I bought my new hoses last year and they said they don't make them like that anymore due to stiffer hose wall. Not sure if that is true. I don't believe I have any collapsing hoses, but Thankyou for that idea.
One thing I forgot about until just now reading your feed back request, lower radiator hose spring, It might not sound like much but the increase of pressure with a 22 lb cap caught my eye. I had a pressure build up due to collapsed lower hose and the huge sucking power of the water pump. The stainless steel spring prevents that. best $5 investment.
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I have an update! I really thought when the light bulb went off this morning in my head that I would have a success story, but NOOOO! Still struggling with this, but at least I corrected one more issue.
So I got to reading about vacuum advance and the ported vs manifold vacuum connection debate. Learned more than I did last year. Sooooo... This morning I got to looking at my quick fuel 735 carb and low and behold that vacuum hose was hooked up to the PVC valve port on the side of the carb. I reconnected it to manifold vacuum (closest to carb mounting flange at front of carb) , ran the car till warm and no change. Darn it. See pics below.
I really feel this is a tuning issue! So even though the engine temp shot to 225 again after a warm up and only driving around the block and back, what is puzzling is that as soon as I put the car in park and let it idle, within literally 20 seconds I can watch the temp gauge drop dramatically without the car moving. So no engine load and low airflow. The shroud may help, but there is something else going on here!
See before photo of 225 after driving and the one after it reading around 195-300 is 20 seconds after parking at idle.
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by the way, I am and always have been, running the 16-lb rad cap.
I only asked about difference if I went with a 22-lb cap because I've read that can help, but I wanted to ask you guys first.
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I also checked timing on the car after switching the vacuum advance connection from the carb pcv vacuum line to manifold vacuum.
Initial timing = 22
Total at 3000 = 40
both measured with vac advance hose removed and plugged
Checked vac adv can with 3mm allen wrench and it's 16 turns lock to lock. Currently set for full advance at full clockwise and still no engine cooldown. If I dial it back CCW at all to reduce engine ping under load, it would make things heat up even more, correct?