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paint codes and what you really get.

Jeff Baker

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:07 AM
Joined
Apr 13, 2019
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Location
Yakima Wa
So im having my 1966 ply satellite repainted, we completely striped it down to bare metal door jams fire wall and inside truck area all stripped, got it ready for paint and the painter calls me and says the the paint don't match. Why is it so difficult to get the right color when you have a paint code. body man says he had the paint store mix it up Looks like i get to go visit the paint store and see what we can do. color code is pp1, say bright red but mine it is more like a wine red
 
I worked at an auto body supplier mixing paint when I was a younger man. One thing I know is that different brands of paint, like Sikkens, RM, Glasurit, PPG all have their own formulas to "match" those factory colours, but more often than not, if you mixed the same colour in each brands paint, none of them would match the other because the toner colours you mix together differ somewhat. Tinting to match is not uncommon. But bright red to like a dark wine? Sounds like maybe some human error there or that paint brands formula is way out of whack.
 
Because the toners are not the same anymore. You may need a total different brand to get it right, some colors can be made right in base clear but not single stage. Most paint shops can shoot it with a spectraphotometer and get close, and work it from there. You may end up paying for a few sprayouts, may need a certain color underbase, you never know.
 
paint store Screwed up but not taking any blame, paint we got is a gm color. I think they had multiple orders and screwed up, im posting a corner pic of my car and the color. I did some research and the pp1 in 66 has three different ppg numbers so we are having 3 different pints made to see which one matches the best.

WS06 - 20180123_114041.jpg
 
I always have a 2 ounce sample made up and do a spray out with it first. Sometimes in multiple brands. You'd be surprised how much of a difference there can be between brands.
 
Because the toners are not the same anymore. You may need a total different brand to get it right, some colors can be made right in base clear but not single stage. Most paint shops can shoot it with a spectraphotometer and get close, and work it from there. You may end up paying for a few sprayouts, may need a certain color underbase, you never know.
Yea that's what what we resorted to. Hoping we get it right, paint place is being asses about it. i told them i will pay no matter what but still have attitude
 
So im having my 1966 ply satellite repainted, we completely striped it down to bare metal door jams fire wall and inside truck area all stripped, got it ready for paint and the painter calls me and says the the paint don't match. Why is it so difficult to get the right color when you have a paint code. body man says he had the paint store mix it up Looks like i get to go visit the paint store and see what we can do. color code is pp1, say bright red but mine it is more like a wine red

if it is Base /clear. What is mixed in the can does not mean its the color. Usually as mentioned do a spray out card. Dehydrate the base and watch it darken down. Do your view of the card out side in natural light. Or a sun gun to give a idea if its to light or to dark.

Red is transparent in most cases. You a sealer recommended by the supplier for that color.
 
I feel your pain, one of the few things that went right on my car. They shot the color, did all the sprayouts for free, ended up with my first axalta paint job, store could not have been nicer, others were azzholes when it was not right.
 
I went to the PPG store last year forWW1 for my 64 Savoy. The lady has worked there for decades. She mixed by the PPG formular but said it will be gray! I said no its a soft white!!! I got a free gal of GRAY!!! lol Her old book was WRONG!
I have had good luck with TCP Global. Supposedly ( at least at one time) they have original "stuff".
 
So im having my 1966 ply satellite repainted, we completely striped it down to bare metal door jams fire wall and inside truck area all stripped, got it ready for paint and the painter calls me and says the the paint don't match. Why is it so difficult to get the right color when you have a paint code. body man says he had the paint store mix it up Looks like i get to go visit the paint store and see what we can do. color code is pp1, say bright red but mine it is more like a wine red
You sure someone didn't paint it "dark red poly"?
https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1966-Plymouth.html
1966-Plymouth_DarkRedPoly.jpg
 
You'll almost never match without having the technician match it to your sample
 
If you really want a "certain" colour it can be tricky. As an earlier post said a little too much green or white mixed in and whamo the colour is completely different.
I have a friend who is a paint rep and he told if a colour does have a modern code it will be a modern approximation of the 40 or 50 year old colour.
The painter I used recently mixes up a small amount of paint himself then sprays that onto cards for you to approve. He then sends the card to the paint company to mix the amount required to paint the car.
 
If you really want a "certain" colour it can be tricky. As an earlier post said a little too much green or white mixed in and whamo the colour is completely different.
I have a friend who is a paint rep and he told if a colour does have a modern code it will be a modern approximation of the 40 or 50 year old colour.
The painter I used recently mixes up a small amount of paint himself then sprays that onto cards for you to approve. He then sends the card to the paint company to mix the amount required to paint the car.
Yes, our painter did a metal card with 67 GG1 sample and a 68 GG1 sample, two different colours. Ended up matching the steering column bracket ever so close, also a pillar. Maybe some painters might see a difference .
 
if it is Base /clear. What is mixed in the can does not mean its the color. Usually as mentioned do a spray out card. Dehydrate the base and watch it darken down. Do your view of the card out side in natural light. Or a sun gun to give a idea if its to light or to dark.

Red is transparent in most cases. You a sealer recommended by the supplier for that color.
we was putting it over top of a painted trunk lid that i replaced and letting it dry, what they mixed has to much orange, we are waiting for a guy who is suppose to be a great paint matcher to advise us on how we can darken. The spectrum method got it to dark. I feel like if we can mix the two then it would work. idk just being patient. Like your guitars, I have a bunch also, was never any good at playing but really good at buy them.
 
In the 64 my first car was a 58 Chev Delray, lower than a Biscayne. Dad picked it out, maybe a good idea, 235 stove bolt. Had a not at fault accident. Local body man painter, matched the faded 8 year old paint .
So why is it so hard to match factory codes with technology as it is?
 
paint store Screwed up but not taking any blame, paint we got is a gm color. I think they had multiple orders and screwed up, im posting a corner pic of my car and the color. I did some research and the pp1 in 66 has three different ppg numbers so we are having 3 different pints made to see which one matches the best.

View attachment 1284342
This is the previous panit job?
I had my PP1 redone in 98(standox base/clear) and I think they matched it to a 78 BMW red.
Are they using waterborne?
 
This is the previous panit job?
I had my PP1 redone in 98(standox base/clear) and I think they matched it to a 78 BMW red.
Are they using waterborne?
Yes that was the original paint, they are using omini paint.
 
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