Parts recommendation

[Dimension]

I am just got my '69 RoadRunner 383 block back from the machine and now need to figure out a few of the parts that I need to purchase. So far I have purchased this cam along with these pistons and plan on purchasing a Weiand Action Plus intake. I have already purchased the 440 base plate to help with space clearance on the Air Grabber. The heads are going to remain the factory 906 heads and the bottom end is remaining factory as well. We are wanting to try and keep this thing looking as close to possible as the original but want it to be a little on the fun side to drive. It will mainly be used as a show car.

Now on to the questions:
1. What type of main bearings should I buy?
2. I'd like to replace the rockers as well any recommendations? The cam kit I bought comes with solid lifters.
3. I'd like to purchase a Holly 750 double pumper but the question is which model? Brawler, Classic, Warrior, etc.

 

[WileERobby]

Clevite bearings. That cam is hydraulic, not solid. And you should use the factory rocker setup. You'd be better off with a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. From your post :
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits

Cam/Lifters/Valvetrain, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Adv. Duration 268/280, Lift .477/.480, Mopar, 383-440, Kit OK, that intake is a square-bore, so my personal old-school choice is a Holley 3310.

 

[Dimension]

Clevite bearings. That cam is hydraulic, not solid. And you should use the factory rocker setup. You'd be better off with a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. From your post :
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits

Cam/Lifters/Valvetrain, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Adv. Duration 268/280, Lift .477/.480, Mopar, 383-440, Kit

Do you have a link to the bearings you recommend? I am not sure which ones I need for I know that there are several different kinds of bearing such as 1/2 groove.

 

[WileERobby]

Stock bearings are fine. I'm an old-timer, the only links I have are sausage links.

 

[451Mopar]

I am just got my '69 RoadRunner 383 block back from the machine and now need to figure out a few of the parts that I need to purchase. So far I have purchased this cam along with these pistons and plan on purchasing a Weiand Action Plus intake. I have already purchased the 440 base plate to help with space clearance on the Air Grabber. The heads are going to remain the factory 906 heads and the bottom end is remaining factory as well. We are wanting to try and keep this thing looking as close to possible as the original but want it to be a little on the fun side to drive. It will mainly be used as a show car.

Now on to the questions:
1. What type of main bearings should I buy?
2. I'd like to replace the rockers as well any recommendations? The cam kit I bought comes with solid lifters.
3. I'd like to purchase a Holly 750 double pumper but the question is which model? Brawler, Classic, Warrior, etc.

Cam is hydraulic flat tappet, duration should be OK. Flat tops and 906 heads likely about 9:1 compression ratio? I'd have to plug the numbers into the spread sheet, but too late for tonight. The Action plus intake is almost like an aluminum version of the stock intake, it should be fine.
What is being done with the heads? I would get new valve springs to match the cam.
Stock rocker arms would be OK, or run aftermarket 1.6:1 ratio adjustable rockers for a bit more valve lift.
With the stock rockers, and a factory type 0.020" steel shim head gasket, and stock block height, the factory pushrods should be fine.
If the block or heads will be milled and using a different head gasket or rocker arms, I would use an adjustable pushrod to find the correct pushrod length, then order custom pushrods of the correct size.
Mock up the heads with gaskets and the intake manifold to make sure the intake fits correctly. If the heads/block have been milled, the intake side of the heads will need to be milled also to allow the intake to align with the lower port position. The intake could be milled, but then intakes won't interchange between engines.
I have a near new Holley Ultra Avenger 770 cfm carb (blue) I'd sell for $400 (They are $769.95 new.) Holley 0-86770BL Holley Ultra Street Avenger Carburetors | Summit Racing
I went to EFI on my cars.

 

[Dimension]

Cam is hydraulic flat tappet, duration should be OK. Flat tops and 906 heads likely about 9:1 compression ratio? I'd have to plug the numbers into the spread sheet, but too late for tonight. The Action plus intake is almost like an aluminum version of the stock intake, it should be fine.
What is being done with the heads? I would get new valve springs to match the cam.
Stock rocker arms would be OK, or run aftermarket 1.6:1 ratio adjustable rockers for a bit more valve lift.
With the stock rockers, and a factory type 0.020" steel shim head gasket, and stock block height, the factory pushrods should be fine.
If the block or heads will be milled and using a different head gasket or rocker arms, I would use an adjustable pushrod to find the correct pushrod length, then order custom pushrods of the correct size.
Mock up the heads with gaskets and the intake manifold to make sure the intake fits correctly. If the heads/block have been milled, the intake side of the heads will need to be milled also to allow the intake to align with the lower port position. The intake could be milled, but then intakes won't interchange between engines.
I have a near new Holley Ultra Avenger 770 cfm carb (blue) I'd sell for $400 (They are $769.95 new.) Holley 0-86770BL Holley Ultra Street Avenger Carburetors | Summit Racing
I went to EFI on my cars.

Thanks so much for your input on this.

The block has been decked to allow the new pistons to come all the way to the top of the cylinder hole. As for the heads, nothing has been done other than the springs replaced with springs that came in the cam kit.

PM sent.

 

[Dimension]

Stock rocker arms would be OK, or run aftermarket 1.6:1 ratio adjustable rockers for a bit more valve lift.

Do you have any suggestions on the rockers? I believe that since what I have is so old that it would be best to purchase and entire kit.

 

[451Mopar]

I haven't built anything with stock rocker arms, and under 0.500" lift valve lift in the last 20 years. On my old 360 engine I ran the Crane Gold 1.6:1 rocker arms, and most of the stroker engines (over 0.600"+ lift) have used the Harlan Sharpe rockers that used to be more mid priced, but have gotten pretty expensive. The Charger (over 0.700"+ lift) is using the T@D rocker arms that are also expensive.
I'm sure someone will post what they are using on a milder setup?

Maybe the 440 source rocker arms? Price seems really good?
Aluminum Roller Rockers/shafts - 1.6 Ratio - New

 

[BSB67]

I suggest you make a few measurements and make a calculation or two.

You could end up with 8:1 compression ratio. On a 383, the details really matter.

 

[RemCharger]

Straight to Harland sharps for a grand??
On a stock 383.
She's a different world out there now.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

https://www.manciniracing.com/mre5700192842.htmlhttps://www.manciniracing.com/mre5700192842.htmlImho the mancini aluminum rockers are the best value. $670 w pushrods and good quality.

 

[BSB67]

I’m using Comp Cam Pro Magnum rockers and they have been fine.

Did you want to run solid lifters on a hydraulic cam?

 

[Dimension]

I suggest you make a few measurements and make a calculation or two.

You could end up with 8:1 compression ratio. On a 383, the details really matter.

What calculations are you suggesting?

 

[Dimension]

I’m using Comp Cam Pro Magnum rockers and they have been fine.

Did you want to run solid lifters on a hydraulic cam?

No, I have yet to put the motor together. Prior to this engine was never rebuilt so it was completely stock. I am trying to do some cheapish upgrades to it like putting a different intake on it and a bigger cam. I am pretty much just changing the top end a little bit on it.

 

[moparmarks]

Good stock rockers and rods are fine with that Comp cam. I've ran similar set ups for years.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

440Source has his new rockers they came out with.

 

[BSB67]

What calculations are you suggesting?

The measurements are:
1) Actual Piston to deck distance measurement at TDC. It can be done with a metal straight edge and feeler gauges. Unless your machine shop milled the block deck considerably, the KB162 pistons will be about 0.020" below the deck.
2) Head combustion chamber. They are typically 90 cc unless they have been milled. You can measure the thickness of the head casting at the lower head bolt hole location to determine if it has been milled. The thickness is usually 1.00" if un-milled.
3) Gasket thickness can be 0.020" to 0.055". The typical FelPro is 0.040"

There are on-line compression ratio calculators. The KB site has one. Using the bore, stroke, 8cc for the valve pockets, and the above reasonable assumptions, the KB calculator shows a compression ratio of 8.1:1. You can get to 8.5:1 with the thin head gasket, and some milling of the head or deck. If you want to get to 9:1 you would have to do more milling and mill the intake surface, otherwise the intake won't fit.

8 to 8.5:1 is fine, but understand that you are going to be giving-up power.

 

[Dimension]

The measurements are:
1) Actual Piston to deck distance measurement at TDC. It can be done with a metal straight edge and feeler gauges. Unless your machine shop milled the block deck considerably, the KB162 pistons will be about 0.020" below the deck.
2) Head combustion chamber. They are typically 90 cc unless they have been milled. You can measure the thickness of the head casting at the lower head bolt hole location to determine if it has been milled. The thickness is usually 1.00" if un-milled.
3) Gasket thickness can be 0.020" to 0.055". The typical FelPro is 0.040"

There are on-line compression ratio calculators. The KB site has one. Using the bore, stroke, 8cc for the valve pockets, and the above reasonable asumptions, the KB calculator shows a compression ratio of 8.1:1. You can get to 8.5:1 with the thin head gasket, and some milling of the head or deck. If you want to get to 9:1 you would have to do more milling and mill the intake surface, otherwise the intake won't fit.

8 to 8.5:1 is fine, but understand that you are going to be giving-up power.

When I took the block to the machine shop I also took my heads, cam kit mentioned above and the pistons. They stated that they decked the block to zero and milled the heads. However the Torker 383 intake I took to them was no longer good due to the prior owner of the intake doing some weird job on the intake. The machine shop told me to look for a different intake for no carb would bolt up nicely to it. Beyond that nothing else has been done to the block heads or anything else.

I would love to get as much power out of what I have as possible along with bringing the compression up to 9:1. What are your suggestions on doing this?

 

[Curiousyellow71]

You can plug in your numbers like said. The one from summit is easy to use.
Compression Calculator
Just going by the numbers BSB67 gave and your 0 deck pistons... the only way now to raise the compression is using a thin head gasket and milling the heads. Milling the heads is what we have done previously with open chamber heads, with large valve relief 383 pistons. We usually have the intake side of the head milled so a stock intake fits. If i am remembering correctly .050 off a 906 was 82cc. I would have to look at records to verify. I know .070 off 346 heads was 74cc.
Going more then .050 makes the valve cover rail thin. It is noticeably thinner even at .050, works though. You can also machine the intake but the valley tray fits better leaving the intake stock.

 

[PRHeads]

If it hasn’t been done yet, the next thing that should happen is to have the heads cc’d(at least one chamber per head).

Then the next steps can be determined.