FBBO Gold Member
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- 4:54 PM
- Aug 11, 2010
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Like you after years of doing our own work,knowing how you want it done, it is a challenge .finding a good shop that I would even trust
When I picked the car up the A/C didn't work. They pulled a line loose when removing the tranny.loosened that connection.
As I get older my motto is "make the call, write the check"Like you after years of doing our own work,knowing how you want it done, it is a challenge .
Went thru this with my PT Cruiser. It needed a clutch and I had a shop do it.
When I picked the car up the A/C didn't work. They pulled a line loose when removing the tranny.
At my age now there are thing I just can't do anymore.
So I called my warehouse $335 for 30#... Not quite the bargain it use to be...FWIW Check into getting a 30# cylinder... You'll need to see if a friend will hook you up since you need a license to buy the 30# but the savings is/was insane, 1# cans are $15-$20 Last year I bought a 30# cylinder it was $120... Looking on line I'm seeing $500+ for a 30# cylinder but unless things have changed dramatically I think that's places fishing for suckers...
Might be time I buy a couple more cylinders just so I'm well stocked...
I'll send you my ruined robinair gauge set, that'll explain it all. Lol. First, because the 'sealant' will plug the orifice and/or condensor. And secondly, if you ever take it to be repaired proffesionally and they're worth a ****, they'll use a refrigerent tester before they touch it that looks for flammable gasses, and you guessed it, sealer. If it has either they won't use their machine on it as the sealer will plug it up.Excuse my ignorance here…would you please explain why you say this? I see many refrigerants advertised with sealants. In fact I’ve used them before myself.
Thank you. That’s good info to consider, especially considering making the investment in my own equipment myself.I'll send you my ruined robinair gauge set, that'll explain it all. Lol. First, because the 'sealant' will plug the orifice and/or condensor. And secondly, if you ever take it to be repaired proffesionally and they're worth a ****, they'll use a refrigerent tester before they touch it that looks for flammable gasses, and you guessed it, sealer. If it has either they won't use their machine on it as the sealer will plug it up.
I get it, all the parts places sell it like radiator stop leak, head gasket in a can, engine rebuild in a can, oil leak stopper, etc., so your average Joe sees no issue and it solves their problem, they think. If sealer(stop leak) is detected at one of our dealerships in a customer's system, everything, compressor, lines evap, condensor, etc all have to be replaced.
I know it's more info than you wanted probably, but I don't know how else to explain it. I apologize.
I see 40 cans of refrigerant with sealer and 6 cans of plain ole 134 on the shelves and I just shake my head. These parts places don't give 2 shits if this stuff ruins anything because they are in the parts business.
I do that by shutting off the gauges and letting it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, if the gauge moves towards zero, I pull it down more and repeat until vac holds. I know it's not 'precise' but it works. Your way is a neat alternative but I do so little ac work I can't justify it.Dedicated vacuum gauge that reads in microns is a must. That pump will give you the deep vacuum you need but a dedicated gauge is the only thing that can confirm microns. The compound gauge on the low side of the gauge set confirms that a system is in vacuum, but does not read accurately enough in the low ranges that you need to confirm that all noncondensibles have been removed from the system.
what type oa compressors do u have? if its the v twin type he only thing thing that will work right on them is R-12 WITH A GOOD POA VALVE . U NEED A GOOD POA VALVE IN THE BACK OF THE COMPRESSOR TO SLOW DOWN THE FREEON GOING THROUGH THE SYSTEM FOR THE AC TO WOR RIHHT. I LNOW I EWILL GET THE GUYS SAYING IM ALL WE BUT MY COUSIN IS A GREAT AC MECHANIC ON BOH 134A& R-12 WE TRIED 134A IN THE OLD SCHOOL UNITS & IT WILL NO WORK RIGHT . IF U DONT MIND CHANGOMG THE LOOKS GO BUY A 134A CONVERSION ( ROTARY TYPE ALL THE LINE & THE RIGHT PULYS FOR IT TO WORK RIGHT . I HAVE A 72 NEW YORKER WITH A GOOD CHARGEOF R-12 I HAVE 34 DEGREE AIT COMING OUT THE CENTER DUCKS AS FOR THE TOLS WELL U WILL HAVE TO HAVE A VACUUM PAG WITHTHE RIGHT FIRTTINS FOR THE SYSTEM (R-12 OR 134 A ) THE PUPS R NOT INTERNALABLE . DRAW IT DOWN & C IT IT HOLDS THEN CHAGRE IT BACK UP TOILL THE SIGHT GLASS IS CLEAR u can find the ampot of freeon u need from the service bookI need to work on the A/C systems for at least two different cars. I am tired of (a) leaving my car with unknown shops and (b) paying big dollars for A/C work. So I want to get the tools I need so I can work on A/C repairs myself. Previously, I have just shoved cans of R134a into the system with one in-line gauge. I need to step up my game.
Can you help me get a good list for the A/C tools I need?
I went quickly to Summit Racing to spec out a couple of things.
First, I need a good set of gauges. Something like this? I like that it has a case to keep it neat and tidy when I don't use it.
View attachment 1499287
Then, I guess I need a vacuum pump. Like this?
View attachment 1499288
Obviously I need cans of R134a (mine has been converted).
Any feedback on my tool choices? Additions? Replacement? Subtractions? Any feedback is appreciated!