Please School me on A/C Tools

[PlymCrazy]

A friend of mine has this setup. We used it last night to recharge the A/C on the Tahoe. It took a whopping 64oz of refrigerant to recharge. This was my 2nd time doing an A/C system recharge with him. I'm still learning. When he bought all of this equipment a few years ago it cost him around $400. (That's a Robinair vacuum btw. Sorry about the glare.)

 

[eldubb440]

A friend of mine has this setup. We used it last night to recharge the A/C on the Tahoe. It took a whopping 64oz of refrigerant to recharge. This was my 2nd time doing an A/C system recharge with him. I'm still learning. When he bought all of this equipment a few years ago it cost him around $400. (That's a Robinair vacuum btw. Sorry about the glare.)

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dude, you wearing crocs?

 

[PlymCrazy]

dude, you wearing crocs?

Saw that coming. Almost edited it out. Nope, not me wearing crocs in that pic…not this time anyway lol. That was my buddy Steve. Waiting for someone to give me slack about the Detroit sticker on his air compressor tank too…

 

[eldubb440]

. That was my buddy Steve.

tell Steve she needs to shave her legs

 

[PlymCrazy]

tell Steve she needs to shave her legs

Dude, I'm gonna tell him right now . He's a ballbuster too so if you want his response, PM me. I won't hijack this thread anymore.

 

[HawkRod]

5. No, pressures tell you what is happening inside the system, but systems require a minimum fill weight which should be listed on a sticker somewhere around the engine compartment or also in Service Info.

So does this mean that if a system is low on refrigerant (like my 70 is now), that I need to pull out what remains in order to refill it with the proper weight of refrigerant?

Dude, I'm gonna tell him right now . He's a ballbuster too so if you want his response, PM me. I won't hijack this thread anymore.

No worries - all in fun...

 

[Nxcoupe]

So does this mean that if a system is low on refrigerant (like my 70 is now), that I need to pull out what remains in order to refill it with the proper weight of refrigerant?


No worries - all in fun...

Technically, yes. Practically, no. Just fill till pressures are where they should be for the temp and humidity of the day. That will be close enough for it to feel comfortable.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Amazon product ASIN B08BFBF4XV
Amazon product ASIN B08P1WRZ1S

 

[kiwigtx]

This is a great add - thanks Paul.

Yeah, I'm not trying to become the best outfitted A/C guy around, but like you, simply to be able to service my systems and make them work reliably.

Do you mind expanding on your statement:

Thanks,

Hawk

I see a new A/C Repair Business in your future Hawk. With your mechanical skill and background, I am sure you could do this even as a hobby business.

I only wish you lived closer to me....trying to find the right guy for auto-A/C is difficult at times.

 

[Virg464]

So does this mean that if a system is low on refrigerant (like my 70 is now), that I need to pull out what remains in order to refill it with the proper weight of refrigerant?


No worries - all in fun...

What Nxcoupe said. If your system is low there is a leak, whether it's a pin hole or a nitrile o-ring, the system is leaking so two options 1-charge and add UV dye, find the leak, recover the system, repair, recharge (lots of work) or 2-recharge the system until your pressures are where they should be (knowing you will be doing this again. The big problems come when the system leaks down completely, allowing moisture inside, that can/will kill your receiver/dryer, which is basically just a big can of desiccant.

 

[HawkRod]

I see a new A/C Repair Business in your future Hawk. With your mechanical skill and background, I am sure you could do this even as a hobby business.

I only wish you lived closer to me....trying to find the right guy for auto-A/C is difficult at times.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm just a stubborn guy who has had issues finding a good shop that I would even trust to get near my car - dealing with A/C stuff makes it even harder. So, I'll try to learn and do it myself.

I'm sure I'll make mistakes, but with the FBBO brain trust: hopefully not too many!

 

[toolmanmike]

A good gauge set like Robinair, an air powered or electric vacuum pump, and an accurate duct thermometer for basic recharging. A scale if you feel the need to "fill it up to the proper level". I just add until the duct temp is good. There are a lot of clutch and seal tools but they are for compressor repairs which few tech's do any more. Sometimes Schrader valve tools come in handy if you are chasing leaks. Lot's of tools but many you don't need unless you are doing extensive repairs. Oh I forgot about leak detection. That can get spendy. A spray bottle with some soap can detect external leaks at Schrader valves and pipe/tube fittings. Evaporator cores will require a electronic 'sniffer". I sold this stuff for 3 decades.

 

[eldubb440]

my Drango leaks slow......I put 2 small cans in every spring, and I'm ice cold all summer. The key is to never let it all leak out.

 

[HawkRod]

What Nxcoupe said. If your system is low there is a leak, whether it's a pin hole or a nitrile o-ring, the system is leaking so two options 1-charge and add UV dye, find the leak, recover the system, repair, recharge (lots of work) or 2-recharge the system until your pressures are where they should be (knowing you will be doing this again. The big problems come when the system leaks down completely, allowing moisture inside, that can/will kill your receiver/dryer, which is basically just a big can of desiccant.

Thanks.

My A/C has been rock solid for 8 years. However, I recently had to mess with the A/C compressor when I replaced my 383 engine with my stroker 400. I thought one of the A/C compressor connectors "moved" just a little bit, so I wonder if me messing with it loosened that connection.

My thought is to tighten that connection, recharge the A/C and see if it leaks again.

 

[eldubb440]

if it holds vaccuum, it wont leak.....the gauge shouldnt move

 

[bandit67]

Hawk, just remember R 134 is a blend of refrigerants . So, technically , the guru's say when that leaks down the blends ratio changes. The taught rule of thumb is you can shoot more gas in ONE time, and then one needs to pump down and recharge. That is to achieve maximum efficiency. But as eldubb posted, most just recharge till it cools satisfactory to us and ride on.

 

[Virg464]

Thanks.

My A/C has been rock solid for 8 years. However, I recently had to mess with the A/C compressor when I replaced my 383 engine with my stroker 400. I thought one of the A/C compressor connectors "moved" just a little bit, so I wonder if me messing with it loosened that connection.

My thought is to tighten that connection, recharge the A/C and see if it leaks again.

Right, nitrile 0-rings are not forgiving (at all), they will split/cut at the littlest of movement. But like eldubb440 said, if you tighten things up and it will hold a vacuum, charge it and get your pressures up, or like toolmanmike said use a duct thermometer, if memory serves I think we would shoot for around 40*F at the outlet (if exterior temps and humidity levels will allow). If you do crack things open just remember that cleanliness is paramount! and plug every orifice and and cap every line.

 

[GTXDAN]

Hawk I wouldn't spend a lot on tools that you are just going to use once in a while. Tools like 1 Wild R/T posted will work fine for the occasional use most people do. I've had the same R12 gauges and vacuum pump for 40 yrs and they weren't top of the line back then and still work great. Weighing the charge is usually done when you charge the system after it has been opened for service, and you are using a 30lb tank of gas. Nobody weighs 1lb cans. Fill it until the pressures and temps coincide. If you have the system open and install new o rings it's best to lube them with refrigerant oil before putting it back together. They will seal better and not be as susceptible to damage when installing them. I do know that Chrysler had the best a/c back in the day. When it was charged up and working right it would put out 35*F air and freeze your but off. Good luck.

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm just a stubborn guy who has had issues finding a good shop that I would even trust to get near my car - dealing with A/C stuff makes it even harder. So, I'll try to learn and do it myself.

I'm sure I'll make mistakes, but with the FBBO brain trust: hopefully not too many!

You and I are very much alike. I have paid thousands for tools to do one-off jobs for myself.

 

[HawkRod]

First of all, I greatly appreciate all the information and support. Thank you all for your answers and help!

In the case of my 70 Road Runner, the system has not leaked down completely; the compressor still comes on, but the air is not as cold. My plan for that car is NOT to open the system up, but rather go in, tighten one connection (it is a PITA to get do since my compressor is hidden below my alternator), and then refill it to "specification". Hopefully that will solve the issue. If it does not, then I will need to bring the system down to zero and try to find where it is leaking.

For later projects: I have three other cars to work on. Two have factory A/C, need complete refurbishments, new dryers, O rings, etc. and conversion to R134a. Another is a restoration that is getting a Classic Air system. So I have enough to keep me busy!

Again, I appreciate the advice - now to make a final choice for the tools...