Polyuethane bushings has no positive lock on pivot shafts

[1967coronet440]

Are you kidding me !?!?! It takes like 10 minutes to do them that way !!

Ha I wish

 

[RT K_line]

On really tough outer shells I use a sawzall an cut the shell long ways then knock it out with an air hammer

 

[gkent]

Lets be clear about which "shells". The ones on the shafts are the one's you whack off with hammer and chisel. The outer shells which tend to remain in the LCA are easiest to remove by welding a washer on and pressing them out - which also only takes a few minutes.

I can see where taking those out with a hammer and chisel would take some time !!

 

[1967coronet440]

Lets be clear about which "shells". The ones on the shafts are the one's you whack off with hammer and chisel. The outer shells which tend to remain in the LCA are easiest to remove by welding a washer on and pressing them out - which also only takes a few minutes.

That's what I was referring to, inner sleeves, or shells on the shaft itself were a piece of cake

 

[gkent]

Google this:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=mopa...XL7YMKHSyLD-MQsAQISw&biw=1024&bih=690#imgrc=_

Found this pic:

 

[gkent]

I agree, there would be no way maintain my ride height it is spinning inside there.

This is not true. The bushing is just a pivot and insulator. The ride height is maintained by the adjuster and torsion bar. The "advantage" to the poly pieces is a) they are much harder than stock so will firm things up and b) because they spin freely they allow the suspension to move freely.

With stock bushings you have to adjust your ride height before tightening the LCA pivot nuts. With the polys you don't (because they turn freely).

If the polys were firmly attached as the stockers are you could probably do away with torsion bars altogether simply because the poly is so much stiffer than rubber.

 

[RamRunner]

This is not true. The bushing is just a pivot and insulator. The ride height is maintained by the adjuster and torsion bar. The "advantage" to the poly pieces is a) they are much harder than stock so will firm things up and b) because they spin freely they allow the suspension to move freely.

With stock bushings you have to adjust your ride height before tightening the LCA pivot nuts. With the polys you don't (because they turn freely).

If the polys were firmly attached as the stockers are you could probably do away with torsion bars altogether simply because the poly is so much stiffer than rubber.

I don't mean to criticize, because I don't know, but shouldn't the shaft have a positive lock like the factory ones? Is this something you have knowledge about? Again not criticizing, just trying to figure this out.

 

[RamRunner]

My biggest issue is how am I going to get the nut to torque on the shaft? Stanton may be correct that once I get it tight, there may be no issue at all.

 

[RamRunner]

I was just on another forum, and I have the answer. Make perfect sense now. Ok, here's what you do 1) the pivot shaft goes in the k member without the lca, tighten up the nut. 2) install the lca to the pivot shaft. 3) install the torsion bars. 4) set ride height, then tighten the pivot shaft nut with weight of car on suspension.

 

[gkent]

I don't mean to criticize, because I don't know, but shouldn't the shaft have a positive lock like the factory ones? Is this something you have knowledge about? Again not criticizing, just trying to figure this out.

Back in the days when these were originally designed polyurethane was not an option.

The shaft does have a positive lock - in the K member and is simply the pivot upon whick the LCAs rotate. The T bars are what keep the LCA's from falling off.

The bushing - whether rubber or poly is just an insulator - so you don't have steel on steel rusting and seizing or wearing and rattling or giving too harsh of a ride. The same way rubber is used in the upper a-arms.

The use of poly just firms up the ride - as any road racer will attest to. I don't think I'd use it on a street cruiser - pro-touring or road racer only.

I imagine the factory molded the rubber to the sleeves because if they hadn't the movement would have chewed them apart in no time. Just as engine and trans mounts are all molded to the metal for that same reason. Polyurethane is hard enough to withstand that movement.

 

[gkent]

then tighten the pivot shaft nut with weight of car on suspension.

Only with stockers, not necessary with poly bushings. You can tighten the pivot shaft and leave it tight - no need to redo after adjusting ride height as the LCA will freely rotate on the shaft.

 

[747mopar]

Keep in mind if you use the profirged kit you will have to remove the old outer shell, which is a PITA. Mancini makes a tool to remove them, took me 4 hours to remove both shells in my LCA's with hammer and chisel like service manual recommends. My 2 opinion for what it's worth I would not install a pivot shaft assembly in my car that spins freely in the bushing.

Couple other tricks to remove outer shells, drop a hardened 1/8" washer in there and bend the outer lip of sleeve over to hold the washer in them press it out from the other side, can also tack weld a washer in there and press it out.

Boy your doing it the hard way, I use a die grinder and grind the shell in half.

 

[1967coronet440]

Boy your doing it the hard way, I use a die grinder and grind the shell in half.

Ya it was my first time doing them, live and learn

 

[RamRunner]

Only with stockers, not necessary with poly bushings. You can tighten the pivot shaft and leave it tight - no need to redo after adjusting ride height as the LCA will freely rotate on the shaft.

This was mentioned as the last step, to make sure the nuts would not work itself off after final assemble.

 

[RamRunner]

The method of pivot shaft in first, and lca, poly bushing on to it worked perfect, I had no issues getting them tight.

 

[gkent]

Good stuff !!

 

[VitaMeVas]

I'm having this same exact problem. I have EVERYTHING tight and torqued except for the pivot shaft. It won't grab (just like a loose ball joint). Hopefully I can get an air ratchet on it, bc i REALLY don't want to break it all back down to the pivot shaft and work forward (though I'm sure that would eventually work). **praying to the Mopar gods**

 

[gkent]

If you're having trouble getting the nuts to tighten keep in mind these are locknuts. Therefore you need the pivot shafts to be fairly tight in their holes in the K. The holes are tapered as are the shafts so a slight tap on the backside should seat them enough to tighten the nuts as well as the resitance of the rubber bushing. But if not, get a regular nut that fits and snug them up with that nut first then remove it and install the lock nut.

 

[VitaMeVas]

If you're having trouble getting the nuts to tighten keep in mind these are locknuts. Therefore you need the pivot shafts to be fairly tight in their holes in the K. The holes are tapered as are the shafts so a slight tap on the backside should seat them enough to tighten the nuts as well as the resitance of the rubber bushing. But if not, get a regular nut that fits and snug them up with that nut first then remove it and install the lock nut.

I’ll give the regular nut idea a try. Much appreciated!!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

FWIW This is how the factory manual says to do it...

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