• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Poor old car won't start

Peter B

New Member
Local time
4:10 PM
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Largo, FLorida
Just acquired a 1967 Dodge Coronet 500 4 door sedan w/ 383 2 barrel. Had been sitting for quite some time but did start recently. Suddenly, it has decided not too. Will crank and there is plenty of fuel. Rebuild the carb and replaced the coil, but now nothing. Open to all suggestions.
 
Welcome to the Forum Pete!
Thanks for joining.
Send us some pics of your 1967 Dodge Coronet.

You say: plenty of fuel.
In gas tank OR in carb?
Is new coil good?
Try installing "Old Coil"
Why did you purchase new coil?
Coil not hooked up backwards is it?
Check for spark at plugs please?

Step 1.
Determine if fuel is going to carb by: A) removing fuel line to carb and have someone crank engine. Do you see gas? YES is good.
Re-comnnect fuel to carb line.
Step 2.
Determine if you have spark to your spark-plugs. Pull a spark plug wire (one at a time) have someone "turn the key over" and in a shaded area see if you can detect the spark plug wire "arcing" a spark. It should be at least 40K Volts (40,000 volts Biight blue)
See spark on all plugs?

Yes?
Then check to see if plugs are fouled/wet and smell like fuel.

If no, engine should start unless carb fuel float is inoperative and allowing fuel in carb bowl to "seep" into manifold and into cylinders.
FLOODED condition will not ignite spark in combustion chamber. WET.
Do you have a local "shop" you can take it to or some "good buds" to help?
 
welcome to FBBO, ask the question over in the General discussion forum you will get many more responses too... could be the fusible link ?? or some other ignition issue, could be a bad ground ?? is the coil wired properly ??, possible a ballast resister ??, or even condenser or points ??, if it still has them, could be something in the bulkhead connections on the firewall ??, they're notorious for corrosion & electrical connection issues, {clean the both sides of the connections, with a small bronze wire brush, pipe cleaners, Q-tips, sand paper etc. & some electronics spray cleaner & put a dab of dielectric grease on all the connections, before reinstalling them, be careful unplugging them they could be very brittle} not knowing all the specifics, it's kind of hard to diagnose over the w-w-w... Good Luck you can find a wiring schematic over @ www.mymopar.com under the tools section & then wiring diagrams.. I'd highly suggest you buy a Factory Service manual too, great to have around for trouble shooting & repairs/spec.s
 
welcome to FBBO hope you find the problem good luck
 
First thing I'd ask since you rebuilt the carb is, did you properly set the float to the proper dimension. It all should have been described in the rebuild instructions. Is so make sure fuel is getting to carb AND into float bowl. If so check the wiring on the coil. If it is right, then you'll check the fire from the coil. This MUST be done with no fuel, grease, or combustibles present. I repeat MUST be. Simple way is to unplug coil wire from distributor and find a phillips screwdriver that fits it snug, usually a #2 will work, of sufficient length to reach bare metal. Make sure the handle is good and you are not touching any metal with your hand. 60, 000 volts kinda hurt. Hold shaft 1/8-1/4 inch from bare metal. Crank engine, flame (spark) should be bright blue to white, nothing less. If so, do the same with a plug wire. If no spark anywhere, I'd first suspect the condenser in the distributor. I've had them to go bad and kill everything. Also burned or misadjusted points cause weak or no spark.
This the way I'd proceed. Just a few things that might help. Good luck
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top