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Port the RPM's or TF240

justcruisin

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I have spoken to a shop in regard to porting my RPM's but I didn't really like the vague response I got to flow numbers and for the price I could sell the eddy's and buy the TF240 heads for not a lot more.
I have hacked on a few heads myself before but I don't want to mess these up. I was considering having a good valve job done and just opening up the walls in the push rod and bolt areas and skinnying the guide boss myself. Question is - is it worth it, the engine is 440/448ci, 10.2:1, xs282s, 1.5 arms, rpm intake, headers and 850 quick fuel. Car and me goes 4050lbs on the track. Runs great but I want to spend more time at the track. Are the trick flows too much for this.
 
I will need to buy rockers for the Trick Flows so u can step up to 1.6 rockers. Ur best bet may be a new torque converter from Dynamic, PTC or Ultimate. U will likely gain 3-5 tenths with just a good converter. Call anyone of them a be honest. U will be very happy the. A good tune goes a long way. Kim
 
The rpm's can be redone to provide some very good AirFlow, the question would seem to be if the basically a "440" non-stroker Engine can use/translate that extra AirFlow from the redone rpm's or the TF240's into quicker ET's at the track......
begging the larger question around other parts that are being contemplated for change ie: Cam ? Intake? etc., etc., = $ spent for E.T. Change.
If you are NOT changing Camshaft/Rocker Ratio as well...... comparisons between airflows of the two heads must be limited to the .520/.540 Lift of the 282

All that said, can you provide more info on the current setup ?
Current/Planned Intake change ?
Any planned Cam change or staying with the XS2828S ?
Rear Tire Diameter
Rear Gears
Headers ? Exhaust if any ?
Torque Convertor Stall speed ?

Remember,
the quickest way to faster ET's is to drop the 60 ft time.... as anything gained/lost in the 60ft time can basically be doubled off ET ?
for example:
if currently logging 1.8 second 60 ft times.... and T/Convertor swap to provide a 1.6 second 60 ft time can yield close to a .4 second drop off E.T. at the end of the 1320 on the same mph.
 
On my bench, Ede heads will flow about [email protected] lift with a basic “normal” porting job.
No holes, no tubes, no epoxy.
And even with that basic type of job, in light of what the TF heads cost....... you’ve probably spent too much time/$$ on them.

That being said, with the current build, I doubt there would be much difference in power between the 300cfm Ede heads or the TF’s.
If other upgrades are planned for the future(like a stroker)...... sell the Ede’s now before you put more $$ into them.

If you’re going to do the porting work yourself, that changes things a bit.
 
OK, so this is street car, 71 R/T Charger that I take to the track now and then. I have only run it with a street tire and 3.23 gears, it has an 11" converter that will flash to 3200. Has run 12.7 @ 110mph. I want to add a lower rear gear as a whole center section so that I can swap it out as I like my 3.23 for the open road and some 28" drag radials for track days. Intake and cam I want to keep, I am limited for hood clearance but I could add in some 1.6 rockers, (which brand). It has 1 7/8" headers. The converter is weighted, the crank is the original HP, big rod crank, the machine shop said they couldn't balance it with my new pistons and H beams so they added weight to the converter but the front is neutral. I have only run it with a full exhaust but can run it open. It is set up for the street with 1.03" T bars, stock XHD springs, it does have a full set of double adjustable shocks. Goal is drop a second without compromising it on road trips with the 3.23 gears.

IMG-2392.JPG
 
I’d try some gears/tires at track first before I changed anything.
To see how far away the goal really is.

One of my friends had that same basic combo.
71 Charger, 446, RPM heads, xs282s, SD, 850, 1-7/8 header, 3950lb race weight, 4.10’s, 10” converter...... ran upper 11.’s
 
Ok, good advice, If I was to add some 1.6 rockers and new springs, what brand would you suggest. Is it worth some power.
 
It won’t be a ton of power, but probably would be def gain with that cam.
Worth the expense? That’s up to the guy spending the $$$ to decide.

I usually use the HS made Mancini rockers for that type of build.

Add some Isky 8005-a springs and you’d be all set.
 
OK, I'll do that, I have spoken with Dr Diff and he said he has a 35 spline helical gear 8 3/4 in the pipeline, I will have him build me a compete center.
 
I'm great at spending other people's money so how about going with 4.10's with a True trac and installing a Gear Vendors overdrive that would make the 4.10 act like a 3.23 when you want it to.
 
My 2cents: if it’s not a car that you’re chasing every last HP and hundredth of ET with, I’d put the money elsewhere. Eddy’s aren’t the wholly grail, but they also probably not the weakest link in your combo at this point either. Given your stated goals, I like the idea above of looking at gears and an O/D option. For a driver, that would be a great upgrade.
 
So two years on I finally got to go to the track. Same combo as before but changed the crank for a new scat forged crank. I opened up the port runners and trimmed down the guide bosses myself, had a 30 degree backcut done on the intake valves and added some 1.6 mancini arms. 4.1:1 gear and 275/60r15 ET Street R's. Seems the 60 needs work. Any advice. Car# 393 left lane. DA was around 1000ft.

DSC01679.JPG
 
So two years on I finally got to go to the track. Same combo as before but changed the crank for a new scat forged crank. I opened up the port runners and trimmed down the guide bosses myself, had a 30 degree backcut done on the intake valves and added some 1.6 mancini arms. 4.1:1 gear and 275/60r15 ET Street R's. Seems the 60 needs work. Any advice. Car# 393 left lane. DA was around 1000ft.

View attachment 1406772
Yep the 60' is lazy for the time.
So, you dialed 12.30 and ran a 12.0??
 
Yes, was running 12.3's with a 1.95 60ft, the last run I let the tires heat up more so that it dragged the engine down on the burn out. Just getting a feel for the car at the moment.
 
Ok yes you have to go out repeatedly many times to get a grip on what the car is capable of, before dissecting what its not capable of.
 
Yes, was running 12.3's with a 1.95 60ft, the last run I let the tires heat up more so that it dragged the engine down on the burn out. Just getting a feel for the car at the moment.
I’m a 4speed guy but I’ve heard that you should not let the tires bite coming out of the water (actually not with a clutch either. )
 
Yep, can be hard on the trans if your in 1st, I use the original valve body but with a TF2 shift kit minus the high gear restrictor as I run 15 springs in the high gear clutch. The valve body has low band apply and I fitted a 16 roller 6 bolt sprag and billet front drum. I start in first (no choice there) and shift to second on the line lock then roll out with a bit of weight on the brake ( I have the line lock on the rear with the input/output reversed) when the motor starts to pull down I let off. Second gear has a 2.25" red lined solid band. Well, that's how I did it on the last past.
 
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