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priming car with epoxy primer, new at this

davek

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So Im still waiting for the metal work to get done. So Im going to prime the car while waiting. The charger did have a repaint I think on it so dont know if I can spray over it. Sat outside for over 10 years so paint is dull. Im using Omni epoxy so can I spray over the paint . I know I have to scuff old paint and sand any rust off. Wipe down . I just want to get the car sealed. All the work is being done outside,no garage. Charger is striped down no fenders,hood,trunk lid or chrome pics are for just a reference.

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It is always best to strip down to bare metal because you don`t know what is hiding underneath, just sanding will not completely remove rust, you need to sandblast or chemically treat. If you are just sealing it to prevent more rust untill you do strip it back to bare metal that is fine - just scuff it up and wipe it down with cleaner and shoot.
 
So Im still waiting for the metal work to get done. So Im going to prime the car while waiting. The charger did have a repaint I think on it so dont know if I can spray over it. Sat outside for over 10 years so paint is dull. Im using Omni epoxy so can I spray over the paint . I know I have to scuff old paint and sand any rust off. Wipe down . I just want to get the car sealed. All the work is being done outside,no garage. Charger is striped down no fenders,hood,trunk lid or chrome pics are for just a reference.

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Just do something, I’m ready to ride. Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeezzz.
 
Metal prep the rusty areas. I agree i wouldn't trust that old paint.
Take it off.
Doug
 
I use a lot of Omni epoxy , it seems to be the best of the few brands available here. I like to throw in a bit of reducer and use a 1.8 to 2.0 tip, seems it helps with a smoother finish. And it still is available in about 4 colors. Of course what he said, the closer to bare metal you get helps guarantee you not painting over thick rust, and that's the main goal.
I spent most of this week blocking down high build primer. Which is pretty difficult to do down here when you are drops torrents amount of sweat on your sanding surface. Gobs up the paper.....but we just learn to deal with super high humidity this time of the season........
 
I would recommend SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) Epoxy over Omni Epoxy. I do use a bit of Omni Epoxy, but now I only use it for sealer (reduced). Here is one of the many reason I prefer the SPI Epoxy over the Omni: It sands easily, and will not gum up your sand paper like omni epoxy, DP40 series PPG Epoxies, etc. You can put down say two coats (over properly prepped bare metal). Do not use any metal conditioners, etc under the epoxy. Never use etch primer under epoxy. Later you can go back into it, and do your body work right over the epoxy (after 7 days scuff it with 180 grit paper for filler). If you use the Moni Epoxy, you will find out right away what I mean when it comes time that you will have to sand some of it. I also have one of the largest and best Auto Body and Painting Groups on social media, where we advise out member's how to do all this body stuff, properly. One of my adm's is a retired Dupont Paint Chemist. Other Mod's are very knowledgeable, and some are building exotic 300k car's, etc. Out goal in that specific group is lead others towards doing a correct job (procedure) on their car's. Pic is the older label on the can, but you get the idea. This epoxy sands beautiful.

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Thanks all , guess I need to suck it up and sand to bare metal. Do it right the first time. Thats why I asked.
 
I would recommend SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) Epoxy over Omni Epoxy. I do use a bit of Omni Epoxy, but now I only use it for sealer (reduced). Here is one of the many reason I prefer the SPI Epoxy over the Omni: It sands easily, and will not gum up your sand paper like omni epoxy, DP40 series PPG Epoxies, etc. You can put down say two coats (over properly prepped bare metal). Do not use any metal conditioners, etc under the epoxy. Never use etch primer under epoxy. Later you can go back into it, and do your body work right over the epoxy (after 7 days scuff it with 180 grit paper for filler). If you use the Moni Epoxy, you will find out right away what I mean when it comes time that you will have to sand some of it. I also have one of the largest and best Auto Body and Painting Groups on social media, where we advise out member's how to do all this body stuff, properly. One of my adm's is a retired Dupont Paint Chemist. Other Mod's are very knowledgeable, and some are building exotic 300k car's, etc. Out goal in that specific group is lead others towards doing a correct job (procedure) on their car's. Pic is the older label on the can, but you get the idea. This epoxy sands beautiful.

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A link to your site please,I would like to check it out.
 
mopmusc, I m just a novice painter at best, so still much to learn. Question, why do you sand epoxy primer? I have never, I may sand down to the epoxy coating. Are you just topcoating over a finished, sanded epoxy?
 
You may get away with simply block sanding an area with NO obvious rust down to factory primer. But if there IS rust you can see, going to bare metal and treating the metal is your best option to stop the rust from progressing below (later added) paint.

Unless the car has been out in a dry arid location like New Mexico, if it's been sitting out in the rain for 10 years or more, there is likely rust all over hidden and visible, and you may need to go to bare metal and treat prior to primer.

A die/angle grinder fitted with a sturdy wire brush (rated for the high RPM) can make quick work removing the existing paint. I would estimate the bulk of the paint can be removed in just one day using such a tool.
 
mopmusc, I m just a novice painter at best, so still much to learn. Question, why do you sand epoxy primer? I have never, I may sand down to the epoxy coating. Are you just topcoating over a finished, sanded epoxy?
There is on occasions where you might want to sand epoxy, and I love having that option when I want to do so. Also, when i am going to do bodywork, i put down a coat or two of SPi epoxy, wait a few days, than do my filler work over the epoxy. Now and then you will be sanding epoxy doing this when you Sand your filler. I hate epoxy when it plug's up my sandpaper. SPI EPOXY WON'T PLUG YOUR SAND PAPER UP. After I am done with my body work, I can top coat areas needed with a bit more epoxy, than go to 2K primer if that is what my top coat will be. I am doing all this over properly prepped and clean bare metal, ofc.
 
I had an old paint and body guy Tell me that he always sanded down to bare metal epoxy primer waited it for it to flash and immediately put two or three coats of 2K on. If he had body work, he sanded the 2k down to the epoxy and applied filler. I haven't tried this but I have been meaning to ask people with more knowledge than I if this was a good idea.
 
I had an old paint and body guy Tell me that he always sanded down to bare metal epoxy primer waited it for it to flash and immediately put two or three coats of 2K on. If he had body work, he sanded the 2k down to the epoxy and applied filler. I haven't tried this but I have been meaning to ask people with more knowledge than I if this was a good idea.
Times have changed since he did much of it. Products are now different. Info he is giving you is half correct. Strip to bare metal, pull and hammer and dolly dents you will be fixing. tape up shoot 2 coats of epoxy over bare metal. No need to be spraying any 2K primer after it. I recommend Southern Polyurethanes Inc epoxy. Price is good and it won't plug up your sand paper when you apply and sand body filler over it. No sense wasting 2K primer on it now. I also use SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) 2K primer as well when the time comes. Join my group on Facebook, and you can ask all the questions you want. Be sure to answer the few questions asked to join. You can also say something to the effect that Lyle told ya to join. Good Luck. pm me if you need the link to my Auto Body and Painting Group.
 
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