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Pros and cons of buying a low miler?

slimt

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as the title reads. What to look for?
 
Low mile what? New,? classic? Truck, car SUV? Gas, diesel???
Need more info....
 
With the "age" factored in, I'd still think things like brake/fuel lines , rubber components....
 
Leaky seals and gaskets. Dry rotted bushings, tires and wires. I have had a couple of super low mile classics over the yrs that were more of a headaches than 200k mile clunkers when it comes to mecahnical. If you plan on driving it at all than get records indicating what has bee replaced an when. If it truly is all original and was not kept in a bubble and run once a week for the last 60 years than plan on inspecting and replacing every vulnerable part on the car over a short time span as you drive it.
 
a real low mileage car (less than 10k ie) is more like a typical collectible item.

Could be driven very short distances but if it is truely original you don't want to replace too many parts with new chinese junk. It is more like putting it on a trailer to a show to present it, maybe drive it to a local drive in show and admire it in your garage. It is usally not a car you want to replace to much stuff and ad on many miles.

So if you are more into driving and activly enjoying: Buy another car.

Carsten
 
Low mileage can be just as hard on a vehicle as high mileage, for a 50 year old one. Either way, they have to be completely gone through.

Positive thing about a low milage one is it should be mostly factory correct with all of it's original parts. Great for sharing references with other people who are restoring one like it. Hopefully sheet metal is in good shape if it was stored properly.

One more thing, make sure it isn't 110,000 miles. There are many things to look for that shows high milage. Some people will advertise the mileage without saying 100,000.

Good luck with your decision.
 
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Like everyone else is saying, start with the parts that don't age well. Any rubber parts, complete fuel system and brakes is where I'd start.

Pros and cons are obvious, you get a car that's more likely to be fully intact and in excellent shape if stored correctly, the only con is you may feel quilty driving it.
 
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If it really is all original, that is a good price for a Coronet 500 big block with that few miles perhaps the one of the lowest in existence.
Note that the wheels are not original, but that's a minor thing in my opinion.
 
If it really is all original, that is a good price for a Coronet 500 big block with that few miles perhaps the one of the lowest in existence.
Note that the wheels are not original, but that's a minor thing in my opinion.
Originals are included
 
66 bb coronet. Under 10000 mile car. Indoors most of its time.



I don't know how young you are, but 100,000 miles on today's cars may be the norm, but back in the day, when these old beaters hit 80,000 miles, they were ready for the junkyard, no matter what shape they were in. Components just didn't last that long. That said, given how easily they rusted out and fell apart, it's a miracle that a couple thousand survived somewhat intact, but I would imagine that several things need to be done to any 50+ year old car with that kind of mileage.
 
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