Pushbutton Restoration

[dvw]

It appears this seal has a smaller outer diameter than the bearing unlike the late standard flange inner seal. Good tip.
Doug

 

[Ron H]

Although I was talked into the green bearings on mine (ahh fellow member called me an idiot for doing) I put them in with a change from 3:23 to 3:55, curious why would these bearings be needed for the change to a '65 trans?

 

[dvw]

The trans has nothing to do with the axle bearings. For what it's worth. I've never failed a green bearing. Many years and miles. I have had a factory axle bearing fail, once. And yes it was greased.
Doug

 

[Ron H]

Thought I'd give yaz an update on the button resto FYI. The photos show my mule drive button in painting process and then after cleaning and buffing. I used water-based paint from a hobby store 'flooding" the indents gently wiping off excess for later polishing after it dried. I used rubbing alcohol with just slightly dampened paper towel to remove the residue. The prep involved using sand grit sticks I found at hobby store when buying the paint to get the old paint off then went with a wet sanding process with 2200 grit before the painting. Well, aside from the raggy condition of the button I'm not too unhappy with the results. The idea was a vivid return of the lettering...now to keep my often greasy fingers off them before 'pushing em huh. Also I tried another mule button using a crayon painting stick and less happy turn out.

 

[Ron H]

For those interested in this project here's the latest. DON'T use any alcohol based **** on the buttons. I used water-based paint and it was evident that's what was initially used as water would start breaking down the old paint. Except my nifty idea even gently using a bit alcohol to remove the overlay was a bad one. It etched the plastic. I'm now testing some other stuff to use to remove the paint...including just water.

 

[dadsbee]

Lighter fluid won't attack plastic.

 

[khryslerkid]

For those interested in this project here's the latest. DON'T use any alcohol based **** on the buttons. I used water-based paint and it was evident that's what was initially used as water would start breaking down the old paint. Except my nifty idea even gently using a bit alcohol to remove the overlay was a bad one. It etched the plastic. I'm now testing some other stuff to use to remove the paint...including just water.

View attachment 705856

I'd just use your dremel, on low speed with a small, (no bigger than 1/2" dia) wool buffing wheel. Try the white rubbing compound. Most water base acrylic paint won't be affected by water once cured. You'll have to test a sample and see what it does. After buffing you can wash off the compound embedded in the letters. Remove the aluminium sleeve so it doesn't get messed up.