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Quick checklist of work underway to run by my Racers Hangout "friends"...

Lol....
Well, anyone else care to add anything, please do.
I mostly wanted to know if there was anything that the work being done now had a direct relationship with, so "while I'm at it, while part A and C are being done, what is part B?" kind of thing...
I got some great advice and some things to do later.
Maybe as the glorious stroker approaches completion, I'll start a thread:
"USCT inner fender braces...J-bars
EITHER or BOTH?"
Stay tuned for that one sometime next year, and feel free to continue to add on or comment on that here.
Thanks!
:thumbsup:
 
I know the song by Paul Simon you reference, but the only guess I can make to your veiled one-off is because I'm moving away from "stock/original"?
Non-numbers matching drivetrain gave me the green light on that from the date of purchase, and because of my experience with 2 local brothers, friends of mine, both with 70 Roadrunners, both who are always in pursuit of "correct or "OEM"________" even though one is a Hemi clone of an original 383 RR, both gorgeous examples of OEM, no way could I compete, and that's not what I have ever wanted to do. Bad *** cruiser, and kick some *** on GMs and Fords on test and tune night, and stay faster than the wife's GTO. That's what I'm looking for and working towards. I'm mindful of the "V" in the VIN, but not to the detriment of my goals...
Or you may have meant something else altogether..:D
Well remember, you asked...and keep in mind, I love the car, what you do here and all reports are you're a top
notch sort of fella.
That said...
I'm one of "those guys" who thinks that pedigreed cars (and a V-code certainly qualifies as one of those!) should
be preserved/restored as much as possible to what they were new - because after all, that's what makes a V-code
special.
Numbers-matching or not, there's a certain added responsibility to being the steward of such a car in my opinion.

Now, I understand it's your car and you can do what you want with it, obviously - and if you're trying to not do
anything "permanent" so as not to harm the next steward's ability to return the car to it's provenance, I applaud
that too naturally.
Given that, however (and correct me if I'm wrong here) there are two overlying themes to your "build" posts that
stick out, again in my opinion:
1. You're proud of the car's rarity as a true V-Code and understand what that means
2. You're also seemingly constantly posting of all the ways you're building the car using anything other than
what makes it an original V-Code, like that heritage doesn't matter

Folks do that all the time with other, more pedestrian models of course - your garden variety /6 and 318 cars,
for example - and it's not really a big deal because those cars don't have the same level of pedigree, whether
we agree with it or not. Nobody much fusses if someone takes a six banger Belvedere sedan and goes to town on
it, for example.
Heck, anybody can do up any car out of the hot rod catalogs, after all....
And I don't begrudge them if that's what they want to do. Heck, have at it! We all love seeing more
pedestrian models built all to snot and we sure love seeing Mopar whipping up on any GM or Ferd.
Just don't do it to a pedigreed car, please.

To me, there is a responsibility taken on when someone obtains one of the rare, hard to find
(and getting rarer by the day) more pedigreed cars.
Some might see that as being "saddled" or restricted in what is acceptable to the hobby in what they do with
such a car - and they're right, there is, in sort of the same manner in which someone doesn't take an
original Duesenberg and does an "LS swap" on the thing.
Yikes...
It's precisely because the car is so rare and desirable that such responsibility comes with it....
Cars like that are so valuable because the market says so - and the market says so for all of the usual
nostalgia and emotional reasons of wanting to see an example of why the cars were so special back then,
to see them as they were (hence the correct definition of the word restore - "to make as new").
Their heritage is what makes them special, desirable and nostalgic and tugs all the heart strings of
pure fans of the marque - and having as many examples of what they were new for future generations
is where the responsibility comes in to play.
Original hemi's and six pack cars were rare new and they're rare as hell now. That makes them pretty
much all candidates for being restored as much as possible in my opinion.

All that said, again mad props and respect for what and who you are and what you do from me.
It's your car and it ain't none of my business in the end. Just my opinion is all.
 
As modified as my brick is,it still has torsion bars and leaf springs.I managed to remove 200 lbs to get down to 3700 with my 200 lbs. I don't need to remove another pound to reach my goals but another 50 to 75 lbs might still be had.
FMJ has a 65 "B" body at 3000lbs,,,,,,,not gutted like a race car to the naked eye.
I take alot of ball busting because I'm not in the 8's after 20+ years with this engine:carrot::lol:
 
Well remember, you asked...and keep in mind, I love the car, what you do here and all reports are you're a top
notch sort of fella.
That said...
I'm one of "those guys" who thinks that pedigreed cars (and a V-code certainly qualifies as one of those!) should
be preserved/restored as much as possible to what they were new - because after all, that's what makes a V-code
special.
Numbers-matching or not, there's a certain added responsibility to being the steward of such a car in my opinion.

Now, I understand it's your car and you can do what you want with it, obviously - and if you're trying to not do
anything "permanent" so as not to harm the next steward's ability to return the car to it's provenance, I applaud
that too naturally.
Given that, however (and correct me if I'm wrong here) there are two overlying themes to your "build" posts that
stick out, again in my opinion:
1. You're proud of the car's rarity as a true V-Code and understand what that means
2. You're also seemingly constantly posting of all the ways you're building the car using anything other than
what makes it an original V-Code, like that heritage doesn't matter

Folks do that all the time with other, more pedestrian models of course - your garden variety /6 and 318 cars,
for example - and it's not really a big deal because those cars don't have the same level of pedigree, whether
we agree with it or not. Nobody much fusses if someone takes a six banger Belvedere sedan and goes to town on
it, for example.
Heck, anybody can do up any car out of the hot rod catalogs, after all....
And I don't begrudge them if that's what they want to do. Heck, have at it! We all love seeing more
pedestrian models built all to snot and we sure love seeing Mopar whipping up on any GM or Ferd.
Just don't do it to a pedigreed car, please.

To me, there is a responsibility taken on when someone obtains one of the rare, hard to find
(and getting rarer by the day) more pedigreed cars.
Some might see that as being "saddled" or restricted in what is acceptable to the hobby in what they do with
such a car - and they're right, there is, in sort of the same manner in which someone doesn't take an
original Duesenberg and does an "LS swap" on the thing.
Yikes...
It's precisely because the car is so rare and desirable that such responsibility comes with it....
Cars like that are so valuable because the market says so - and the market says so for all of the usual
nostalgia and emotional reasons of wanting to see an example of why the cars were so special back then,
to see them as they were (hence the correct definition of the word restore - "to make as new").
Their heritage is what makes them special, desirable and nostalgic and tugs all the heart strings of
pure fans of the marque - and having as many examples of what they were new for future generations
is where the responsibility comes in to play.
Original hemi's and six pack cars were rare new and they're rare as hell now. That makes them pretty
much all candidates for being restored as much as possible in my opinion.

All that said, again mad props and respect for what and who you are and what you do from me.
It's your car and it ain't none of my business in the end. Just my opinion is all.
:thumbsup:

Got it!!
So what I thought you were alluding to is what you meant.
I hear ya, and I appreciate your perspective.
From my POV, the non #s drivetrain gave me the go ahead to do what I want. It just so happens that being able to do what I want meets my desires for the car, what I want to use it for.
If it had the original 440, I would have only ever done 100% reversible mods, if ANY. It does have "6 pack" rods and crank. I'm guessing from a couple of things I've seen it may have seen some serious track time, but that's just a guess.
I don't have the desire to bring it back to "original" and with the engine long gone, the transmission long gone, I don't even know how anyone could go about doing that? I'm thinking it would be impossible.
So I'll do what I want, honor the 6bbl heritage in my own way (always feed it with a 3x2 intake) tell the V code story because the V will always be in the VIN, and gawk in wonder and amazement at original numbers matching V-code cars (and A12s too) whenever I see one!
I'm not keeping my "coin" date stamped, skid plate equipped K-member, the QA1 is going on right now, so if anyone is pursuing a real V-code K-member, I can help a car like that, that may be closer to 100% original, get that much closer to complete.
 
:thumbsup:
I don't have the desire to bring it back to "original" and with the engine long gone, the transmission long gone, I don't even know how anyone could go about doing that? I'm thinking it would be impossible.
Of course you do, but I'll go ahead and state the obvious:
Most desirable to the purist/highest value is numbers-matching, naturally.
"Original/matching numbers."
Second most desirable is like type engine/transmission (date-code correct if possible).
"As new".
Hard to talk the V-code talk without being able to walk the V-code walk if there's little V-code left in the car.

I'll use my own car as an example:
Talk about everything original being gone from the car - with this one, it was.
Basically a shell in the mud for a couple decades. Nothing special, since they made well over 20,000 '68
GTX's and mine was a "base" model one anyways.
Half the metal was replaced because it was simply rotten and gone; There was no interior, driveline, etc.
A definite candidate for taking some license within the spirit of what the car once was....
Not exactly a "pedigreed" car.

Still, it was an original GTX, so...
"GTX" meant a 440 if the optional hemi wasn't chosen. Check, car has a 440.
Interior is all exactly what a GTX would have come with in '68, down to the upholstery patterns.
Car wasn't a console car to begin with; it isn't now as a result.
Anything possible to be done with Mopar parts pretty much was, save a couple parts that
simply are too expensive/unobtanium for such a pedestrian model.

When someone walks up to me and asks that invariable question "is it an original GTX?", I say "yes -
but next to nothing on the car is original".

They'll walk up to me in a parking lot and eyeball the car, then say something like "I remember these.
GTX's had 440's. Is this one a 440?"
"Yep - but not numbers-matching".

Is the car worth near as much as the price guides will tell you?
Nope, because it is in no way a numbers car.
But...was it done faithfully to represent what that type of car actually was in 1968?
You bet. Wouldn't have it any other way. That's the whole point of it.
Otherwise, I could have fetched a cheap Dart and opened up the Summit catalog....

Agree to disagree. Much respect!
-Ed
 
Of course you do, but I'll go ahead and state the obvious:
Most desirable to the purist/highest value is numbers-matching, naturally.
"Original/matching numbers."
Second most desirable is like type engine/transmission (date-code correct if possible).
"As new".
Hard to talk the V-code talk without being able to walk the V-code walk if there's little V-code left in the car.

I'll use my own car as an example:
Talk about everything original being gone from the car - with this one, it was.
Basically a shell in the mud for a couple decades. Nothing special, since they made well over 20,000 '68
GTX's and mine was a "base" model one anyways.
Half the metal was replaced because it was simply rotten and gone; There was no interior, driveline, etc.
A definite candidate for taking some license within the spirit of what the car once was....
Not exactly a "pedigreed" car.

Still, it was an original GTX, so...
"GTX" meant a 440 if the optional hemi wasn't chosen. Check, car has a 440.
Interior is all exactly what a GTX would have come with in '68, down to the upholstery patterns.
Car wasn't a console car to begin with; it isn't now as a result.
Anything possible to be done with Mopar parts pretty much was, save a couple parts that
simply are too expensive/unobtanium for such a pedestrian model.

When someone walks up to me and asks that invariable question "is it an original GTX?", I say "yes -
but next to nothing on the car is original".

They'll walk up to me in a parking lot and eyeball the car, then say something like "I remember these.
GTX's had 440's. Is this one a 440?"
"Yep - but not numbers-matching".

Is the car worth near as much as the price guides will tell you?
Nope, because it is in no way a numbers car.
But...was it done faithfully to represent what that type of car actually was in 1968?
You bet. Wouldn't have it any other way. That's the whole point of it.
Otherwise, I could have fetched a cheap Dart and opened up the Summit catalog....

Agree to disagree. Much respect!
-Ed
I understand. I'm afraid that Anakin Skywalker has become Darth Vader, and turning back now just isn't going to happen. Bench seat-sold. Console? I LOVE a console between bucket seats! AMD N96 hood (no "N96 on the fender tag though) already on it and looks beautiful, but alas, the Weiand Super Stock intake, polished...MESMERIZING! so the hood has to change, and I invested $1400 in hood and paint! Sold my old clean flat hood. I even have N96 vacuum parts I may or may not be able to use, depending on what I do with the next taller hood.
For me the line of demarcation between "keep original appearing" and "make it like I want it" was crossed the day I found out it wasn't #s matching, which was when I saw the numbers cast into the block, stamped into the 18 spline 833, and honestly, the selling price. It was more than a non-Hemi or non-V code, even if there was a comparable 70 RR out there in similar, far less than perfect but presentable condition.
That's another thing, I had been looking for a while. I'm really glad I found exactly what I found, and when the bank asked for the VIN, I am absolutely certain that V added value, no doubt at all!
So thanks for your perspective, and I totally get it, but you don't know the power of the dark side.....
:D
 
with a lower car "stance" & wider front tires (than a frontrunner)
you may want to do the inside, engine bay forward J-bars

instead of the outside the well wells/shock mounts
may have (?) some lower/wider tire/turning clearance issues

(a full cage tied together, fully tied together to the sub-frame
& sub-frame connectors to the cage, rear frame shock supports
& the torque boxes etc. & all the sub-frame tied also to the rockers
& with forward J-bars for shock mounts coming off the front hoop uprights
is far better, {even something like below, when you don't have a front cage hoop}

but this is a mostly street driven car we are talking about after all)

If or when the car starts acting like
a flexy-flyer (old 60's face-forward childs sled on wheels), twisting from all that torque
it ties the firewall inner fender/shock mount & frame
triangulated for a much stronger stiffer front section of a uni-body car

these J-Bars or forward "strut" (Magnum calls them below)
or shock tower & front frame section stiffening bars
Magnumforce Racing design, it's a pretty well thought out design
you don't necessarily need to buy them form Magnumforce Racing
(some here really hate them, I personally never had any issues with anything I ever got from
Ron Jenkins/Magnumforce Racing, albeit I haven't bought anything from there for decade or more)

BUT;
you could have a decent fab guy, cut, bend, fab & make them up for ya'
elephant ears motor plate "tabs" & all, if needed or just add them later

Magnumforce foward bars struts-stiffeners (1a).jpg


Magnumforce foward bars struts-stiffeners (1b) shock tower stiffeners.jpg


Magnumforce foward bars struts-stiffeners.jpg


Magnumforce foward bars struts-stiffeners Hemi with elephant ears.jpg
 
Last edited:
with a lower car "stance" & wider front tires (than a frontrunner)
you may want to do the inside, engine bay forward J-bars

instead of the outside the well wells/shock mounts
may have (?) some lower/wider tire/turning clearance issues

(a full cage tied together, fully tied together to the sub-frame
& sub-frame connectors to the cage, rear frame shock supports
& the torque boxes etc. & all the sub-frame tied also to the rockers
& with forward J-bars for shock mounts coming off the front hoop uprights
is far better, {even something like below, when you don't have a front cage hoop}

but this is a mostly street driven car we are talking about after all)

If or when the car starts acting like
a flexy-flyer (old 60's face-forward childs sled on wheels), twisting from all that torque
it ties the firewall inner fender/shock mount & frame
triangulated for a much stronger stiffer front section of a uni-body car

these J-Bars or forward "strut" (Magnum calls them below)
or shock tower & front frame section stiffening bars
Magnumforce Racing design, it's a pretty well thought out design
you don't necessarily need to buy them form Magnumforce Racing
(some here really hate them, I personally never had any issues with anything I ever got from
Ron Jenkins/Magnumforce Racing, albeit I haven't bought anything from there for decade or more)

BUT;
you could have a decent fab guy, cut, bend, fab & make them up for ya'
elephant ears motor plate "tabs" & all, if needed or just add them later

View attachment 973285

View attachment 973286

View attachment 973287

View attachment 973288
VERY NICE!! :bananadance:
:thumbsup:

ALL of those look nice, especially for being an added on "piece of pipe"...
Really glad you posted those pics Budnicks!
Yes, I think inside the fenderwells looks great. I'm going to show my mechanic so he can see what the future holds, and run the A/C and heater hoses thru the firewall bulkhead accordingly, leaving room for Mr.Sparky to do that job.
Big help!
 
Last edited:
The bronze car pix (last 2) look like a reinforcement plate was welded to the firewall.
Others look like they are going through the firewall skin, but what are they being welded to??
 
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