Quick question

[gkent]

Hmmm ... there's a reason cast cranks are "externally" balanced. My guess is that weight cannot be added because it requires welding and that's no easy task with cast iron. In fact, it could very well weaken the crank. A forged crank ... anybody can weld that !! So as far as internally balancing a cast crank - I don't think so.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Mallory metal plugs can be used to balance the cast crank but really isn't cost effective.

 

[beanhead]

So here is the consensus. Stick with the LY rods, and possibly have the crank internally balanced.

I do plan on doing all new ARP studs/bolts everywhere for strength. Both the intake manifold and heads will be port matched for better flow.

Vehicle is a 68 Charger, 8 3/4 SureGrip 323 gears and a 727. I have been looking at the Edelbrock 7194 for the cam. Thoughts?

Cam choice...very subjective, really depends on your setup and what you want from the car. Remember the 'right' cam for a given combo will out-perform the 'hotter' cam with mismatched parts...for your 7194 cam, I personally would run more rear gear and at minimum 2500-ish stall...With the heads you have, if you have piston/valve clearance I (again just my opinion) I would look for a less duration/higher lift cam...

 

[dvw]

Personally I wouldn't bother balancing it. Use the LY rods, L2355F pistons, cast crank damper, B&M cast crank flex plate. That way you can use any converter. Contact Cam grinders with your info and get their input. Err on the conservative side of duration (230-235) with all the lift (.500"+) you can get on a 110LCA would be my bet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ogle-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-b-m&gclid=Cj0KCQiA

Doug

 

[SimDog]

Personally I wouldn't bother balancing it. Use the LY rods, L2355F pistons, cast crank damper, B&M cast crank flex plate. That way you can use any converter. Contact Cam grinders with your info and get their input. Err on the conservative side of duration (230-235) with all the lift (.500"+) you can get on a 110LCA would be my bet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ogle-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-b-m&gclid=Cj0KCQiA

Doug

I really appreciate your advice. I do agree with your suggestion to stay on the conservative side when it comes to a cam choice, I want to maintain some vac for power brakes. I've been doing some research on converters and I like the Dynamic 11" w/2600-3200 stall. My stock '68 converter probably won't work with the new setup very well. I am sticking with the 323 gears because I plan on doing mostly hwy driving and I really don't want to run high RPM's.

 

[dvw]

I really appreciate your advice. I do agree with your suggestion to stay on the conservative side when it comes to a cam choice, I want to maintain some vac for power brakes. I've been doing some research on converters and I like the Dynamic 11" w/2600-3200 stall. My stock '68 converter probably won't work with the new setup very well. I am sticking with the 323 gears because I plan on doing mostly hwy driving and I really don't want to run high RPM's.

If you have the stock 10" Mopar converter they're around 2200-2400 with a combo like yours. If you have the larger 11", don't even think about it. Call Kenny Ford at PTC. He sells a great converter for around $500.
Doug

 

[SimDog]

If you have the stock 10" Mopar converter they're around 2200-2400 with a combo like yours. If you have the larger 11", don't even think about it. Call Kenny Ford at PTC. He sells a great converter for around $500.
Doug

Ok, so I braved the cold temps and went out to the shop to measure them. One from the RV is an 11in and actually has a sticker on the body that says "LO Stall" so that's easy enough! The other one from the older 727 is 12in and has no identifying marks. I did some research and found it could have a stall of 1850-2100 or 2350-2650. I am curious, but ruling out using either one of them.

 

[440SportSatellite]

I have a B&M balanced flexplate (#10237) for a cast crank that I used for about 18 months before I converted to a 5 speed. Paid around $100 for it from Summit. I'd be willing to part with it for $50 plus whatever the cost of shipping is, if you're interested.

 

[SimDog]

I have a B&M balanced flexplate (#10237) for a cast crank that I used for about 18 months before I converted to a 5 speed. Paid around $100 for it from Summit. I'd be willing to part with it for $50 plus whatever the cost of shipping is, if you're interested.

Deal! I'll PM you.

 

[SimDog]

Personally I wouldn't bother balancing it. Use the LY rods, L2355F pistons, cast crank damper, B&M cast crank flex plate. That way you can use any converter. Contact Cam grinders with your info and get their input. Err on the conservative side of duration (230-235) with all the lift (.500"+) you can get on a 110LCA would be my bet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ogle-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-b-m&gclid=Cj0KCQiA

Doug

How about this for a cam?

Hydraulic roller
110° LSA

288 adv duration intake

294 adv duration exhaust

235 intake duration at .050

241 exhaust duration at .050

.545 intake lift at 1.5:1

.545 exhaust lift at 1.5:1

106° intake center line

Too much? Maybe I should stick with a hyd flat tappet

 

[dvw]

How about this for a cam?

Hydraulic roller
110° LSA

288 adv duration intake

294 adv duration exhaust

235 intake duration at .050

241 exhaust duration at .050

.545 intake lift at 1.5:1

.545 exhaust lift at 1.5:1

106° intake center line

Too much? Maybe I should stick with a hyd flat tappet

The nice thing about hyd roller is set it and forget it. The bad? cost and can be RPM limited. In your case I don't think RPM will be an issue. The specs sound in the ball park.
Doug

 

[SimDog]

QUOTE="dvw, post: 910846512, member: 2923"]The nice thing about hyd roller is set it and forget it. The bad? cost and can be RPM limited. In your case I don't think RPM will be an issue. The specs sound in the ball park.
Doug[/QUOTE]
Ok guys,

I know I am wearing you all out with my questions.

Just one more please !

My calculations show I will be at ~10:1 compression. So here are my two cam choices:

Comp cams Cl21-228-4
Rpm range 2500-6200
Rated for 10:1 compression
285int/297exh
Duration at 050 - 241int/247exh
Lift at 1.5:1 factory - .545
110* LSA
Recommend 3000 stall converter

Comp cams Cl21-227-4
Rpm range 2000-5800
Rated for 9.1:1 compression ratio
275int/287exh
Duration at 050 - 231int/237exh
Lift at 1.5:1 factory -.525
110* LSA
Recommend 2500 stall converter


Goal is to have a driver but also want it to be fun to drive and sound great, by that I mean a little lumpy! Running 8 3/4 SureGrip w/323 gears. *Maybe put in a gear vendors overdrive if budget allows. I like the first one because it matches my engine, but running 323 rear gears it may be too much. Having somewhere around 500hp shouldn't that help overcome it a little? I don't need to burn the tires off of it and I don't plan on racing.

All replies are appreciated because I want to get this right! This is my first go around so be kind

 

[mopar 3 B]

If you really want to use a comp call them tell them what you have and what you want to accomplish.
Books are fine. Give you a idea what out there but may not be best for your app..

 

[oldbee]

If you really want to use a comp call them tell them what you have and what you want to accomplish.
Books are fine. Give you a idea what out there but may not be best for your app..

Probably 2nd cam choice? “Budnicks” posted somewhere about more lift&less duration for street; kinda thinking about the same for myself(course the “lumpy” always sounds righteous).

 

[SimDog]

If you really want to use a comp call them tell them what you have and what you want to accomplish.
Books are fine. Give you a idea what out there but may not be best for your app..

This was good advice!

I called them as suggested and they said the Cl21-227-4 is the perfect choice for my application. They said the car will have better acceleration and be much more enjoyable to drive than with the 228.

Got to give a shout out to "dvw" Doug. He called it perfectly on what specs to look for, which helped me narrow my choices.

Thanks everyone for the awesome input!

 

[dvw]

Let us know how it works out.
Doug

 

[SimDog]

Just received my 2500 stall converter! One more piece of the puzzle!

 

[wyrmrider]

I was the AMC rep on the Rambler Indy Project
1200 Horsepower, 1000 horsepower for 30 minutes on Dick Jones Champion spark Plug (honest) dyno
CAST CRANK
So Cast Crank LY Rods ( I side grind, mag and shot peen but very rarely have I found a bad one and then a visual would have seen a spun rod bearing), Direct Connection Bolts (SPS) get some light pistons- I've used lots of those 2355's and they are HEAVY- you can really rev better
RV stall converter works great with the right cam if you have tall gears like 2:71s 3.23's etc

 

[Cranky]

I have two sets of L2355F's and they are forged.....at least they were the last time I looked. And I've been known to ball end mill 200 grams off those heavy slugs.

 

[wyrmrider]

I used to take the 2355's and mill D dishes in them to work with the 915 heads to get some quench and still have a reasonable compression ratio
thick heads, and rings are down low so no problem with deep dish
actually they are "Impact Extruded"