Rear shackles sliders info

[66Satellite47]

They won't lower the car that much and you will be lucky to lose an inch with them. SS springs...nature of the beast. A few years ago I took out two leaves from a set and the car still sat high. These days I don't run them and just stack my own so I can get the height I'm looking for.

I made my own too. I used the leaf dimensions from original 3000# SS springs, except used my stock '65 main leaf (21" front segment) & arched to get the height I wanted. It took a couple of tries re-arching the two or three longest leaves on each side. The spring shop can do it pretty easy & cheap I'd think. Tell them how much you want to lower it & the weight on the rear.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

The Caltrak slider is slightly different than the Afco. Wonder if it's a better design ?????

http://www.calvertracing.com/store/calvert-leaf-spring-sliders-p-165.html

 

[dvw]

Look the same to me. This is what we run. They seem to work fine. Cheap

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Heavy-Duty-Chrysler-Type-Leaf-Spring-Sliders,5817.html

 

[cdr]

i used the one DVW posted.

 

[actionange1]

I use the MP 3/4 inch relocation kit from an A body with some mods to work on the B body with Caltrac mono leaf and bars. Springs are 1 inch lower as built from Calvert.
No binding, no pinion angle issues (stock location spring perches).
Simple and effective...

 

[NTOLERANCE]

Those that are running these - where/how are you welding them in?

I have the speedway sliders - are you welding them in with the weigh on the axle and the leaf spring eye bolt in the middle of the "slot"?

 

[cdr]

on mine the spring eye is about 2 thirds to the rear of the slot with car sitting full weight

 

[NTOLERANCE]

on mine the spring eye is about 2 thirds to the rear of the slot with car sitting full weight

And being there the slider doesnt " bottom out" on full compression?

 

[cdr]

so far it has not.

 

[Traction Dynamics]

yes put the weight on the car and center the spring eye in the slider. you can add some washers to the insides of them to take up side to side movement, just not tight. the ones I get at speedway come with an aluminum bushing to replace the rubber one. It is sized for the B-body rear eye. too big for the A-body spring.

 

[moobster]

What is the length of the slot on the sliders?

 

[Cranky]

What is the length of the slot on the sliders?

IIRC, 4"

Edit: Just checked Speedway Motors and theirs has a slot length of 4.5"

 

[biomedtechguy]

I had recently started a thread "triangulated 4 link or Caltracs" is part of what it was about, and when I decided on Caltracs (when previously I was "sure" I was going with a triangulated 4 link) I also asked about sliders...
It's up to 7 or 8 pages. It was quite a ride, but I appreciate all the patience and advice.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...f-this-thread-but-sliders-or-shackles.182378/

 

[dvw]

Well, just be careful. I would shim the pinion angle (cheaper) with the spring in the lowest height hole before I went with the sliders. I would be concerned about fore and aft axle movement if you aren't going to add any locating arms to hold things in place. I would be interested in seeing the Nova setup to see what he had there besides the sliders.

They work fine. Cheaper from Speedway Automotive. Fore/Aft movement has always been and still is controlled by the front spring eye. They barely lower the car. Pinion angle change isnt measurable. The biggest advantage is moving the rear spring attachment forward to a point that it wont bind the springs at max separation. If you're running radials you may need all you can get. Street driving isnt compromised. Our car has been 1.38 60ft with 3.55 gear on DOT radials using them.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

The biggest advantage is moving the rear spring attachment forward to a point that it wont bind the springs at max separation. If you're running radials you may need all you can get.

Doug, that is the ideal scenario for me.
What do you mean by "moving the rear spring attachment forward to a point that it wont bind the springs at max separation"? Does that just occur because of the sliders, do the sliders mount where the shackle is, or is there a chance of it being located somewhere much different?
I saw that the location should be decided on a body weight loaded suspension IIRC.

Street driving isnt compromised. Our car has been 1.38 60ft with 3.55 gear on DOT radials using them.

 

[dvw]

Doug, that is the ideal scenario for me.
What do you mean by "moving the rear spring attachment forward to a point that it wont bind the springs at max separation"? Does that just occur because of the sliders, do the sliders mount where the shackle is, or is there a chance of it being located somewhere much different?
I saw that the location should be decided on a body weight loaded suspension IIRC.

The factory location of the shackle is generally to far rearward for drag racing. As the car separates the shackle pivots forward. When the shackle is parallel to the leaf spring the spring can not separate from the body any further. Separation loads the tire. The shock controls the speed of the separation. The slider allows more travel than the shackle. It is possible to move the factory shackle forward. However the slider is a cheaper, cleaner, and easier approach.
Doug

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I had to UNweld and reposition the sliders as the were hitting the end of the slot in the slider

 

[Dan64]

I had to UNweld and reposition the sliders as the were hitting the end of the slot in the slider

Are they noisy on our crappy Northeast roads?.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The factory location of the shackle is generally to far rearward for drag racing. As the car separates the shackle pivots forward. When the shackle is parallel to the leaf spring the spring can not separate from the body any further. Separation loads the tire. The shock controls the speed of the separation. The slider allows more travel than the shackle. It is possible to move the factory shackle forward. However the slider is a cheaper, cleaner, and easier approach.
Doug

Thanks Doug.
There are so many replies in my rear suspension decision thread, once I changed my mind from RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated 4 link to Caltracs, saying "you don't need sliders", "they aren't worth it", etc, and yet the scenario you describe is exactly what I want.
The main reason why I am so on board with sliders is actually watching them function on a Mopar by a forum member.
Just watching them work make them look like an obvious choice, even to a rookie like me (or maybe because I know so little?) so it's encouraging that you speak so highly of them.
Maybe some of the experts are worried about me, the rookie, lining up next to them, and they don't want me to have all of the "good stuff"...
Lol. J/K

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Are they noisy on our crappy Northeast roads?.

They re not that bad. I put little wrap ties "tween the bushings