Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[fullmetaljacket]

After looking in every possible direction I could think of for fenders, I finally decided to go the direction of WEIGHT LOSS, and ordered up fiberglass fenders, a pin-on hood with 5” RO23 scoop, and bumpers. Also planning on mounting the bumpers on aluminum brackets. The fiberglass shipment has already been recieved, and I have no remorse on the purchase yet.

I’ve accepted and embraced that this is a racecar. In the past it’s been a compromise; no more . The goal is to have one of the premier 67 Plymouth B-Body race cars in the country. I rarely drive the car on the street anymore, and when I do it’s just down to the local cruise night. So the specter of a rowdy racecar rolling through the parking lot is as much of a bonus there than it is at the track as far as I’m concerned.

We should be able to shave a good 150 lbs off of the car, most of it right up front where it counts. The goal is to bring it in under 3500lbs. Last time I weighed it, it was 3660. But that was with the old 8-3/4 out back and the stock seats and buddy seat in place. It now has a D60 in it, and I can attest that there’s a significant weight factor there. But it also has lightweight poly race seats now. Those two items just might have canceled each other out, and they certainly moved the center of gravity rearward.

A friend from High School (a LONG ways back ) who owns his own body shop is helping me with the body and paint work on an after hours “friends and family” sort of deal. He’s been instrumental in pushing me to get this project moving.

More updates to come….

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Let it be said, let it be done. You're now talking the language of Drag racers with a weight loss program. It will be better and faster than before. The drivetrain will stress less. Keep us posted.
Hint: Grade 2024 aluminum fasteners with the appropriate washers and nuts will cut a few more pounds especially when deleting the hood hinges.

 

[33 IMP]

Sorry for your loss!
You won't be the first or last victim of poor track maintenance.
I saw a car lose a ton of fluid at the finish line of our local track, and unfortunately nobody in the tower or on-track personal noticed. I tried to reach the guys in the timeslip booth in time to stop the racing, bit didn't make it. Next guy down track rolled a big block Vega several times.

 

[padam]

Very sorry to hear about this! I admire how you found peace about the situation quickly. We all can learn from this. I don't have a lot of laps but, I hear about these things often enough to be realistic. Ideally we have a spotter (how practical is that?) FWIW the rules speak against big-end braking/driving but, everyone that I know close DOES IT! Currently being a heads-up guy and tester I joke that "I won't ever lift" if I'm ahead of them in brackets (to chase an ET) All that said, the track should have been totally cleaned of course. Thanks for sharing.

Bracket racers love to race you guys

 

[Budnicks]

After looking in every possible direction I could think of for fenders, I finally decided to go the direction of WEIGHT LOSS, and ordered up fiberglass fenders, a pin-on hood with 5” RO23 scoop, and bumpers. Also planning on mounting the bumpers on aluminum brackets. The fiberglass shipment has already been recieved, and I have no remorse on the purchase yet.

I’ve accepted and embraced that this is a racecar. In the past it’s been a compromise; no more . The goal is to have one of the premier 67 Plymouth B-Body race cars in the country. I rarely drive the car on the street anymore, and when I do it’s just down to the local cruise night. So the specter of a rowdy racecar rolling through the parking lot is as much of a bonus there than it is at the track as far as I’m concerned.

We should be able to shave a good 150 lbs off of the car, most of it right up front where it counts. The goal is to bring it in under 3500lbs. Last time I weighed it, it was 3660. But that was with the old 8-3/4 out back and the stock seats and buddy seat in place. It now has a D60 in it, and I can attest that there’s a significant weight factor there. But it also has lightweight poly race seats now. Those two items just might have canceled each other out, and they certainly moved the center of gravity rearward.

A friend from High School (a LONG ways back ) who owns his own body shop is helping me with the body and paint work on an after hours “friends and family” sort of deal. He’s been instrumental in pushing me to get this project moving.

More updates to come….

View attachment 1943133

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Great decision should look great too...

never hurts to get a lil' weight off the nose for weight transfer
less wear on tires & brakes or shocks too

Win Win

 

[dvw]

The decision to make a no compromise racecar is a good one. As we all know its still a compromise As most of us are still using the factory floor pan, firewall, rails, etc. When mine was built I focused on 3 main items. Safety, weight, ease of service.Though it still has steel bumpers, fenders, stock unibody (except tubs). The weight empty is around 3125 with a Mega block and truck Dana. Weight reduction from chrome moly cage, moly tube steering shaft, moly tube strut rods, trimmed K frame, light brakes, aluminum drive shaft, light seats, lexan sie and rear windows with no regulators. Carbon bumper brackets, hood, and scoop (all homemade). Stuff that could be improved? Glass bumpers and deck lid, aluminum block, lexan windshield, light non stock steering wheel. If it it's not needed ? Cut it off.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

Thanks for the input, Doug. The “elephant” thread has been eye-opening and inspiring. You sharing your go-fast secrets is certainly helpful. This re-build will certainly attempt to incorporate as many helpful tricks as I can muster within a reasonable budget.
Since I’m at the suspension portion of the teardown phase, I’ll solicit opinions on TORSION BARS. My current set of .880” bars are in seemingly fine shape, but I can’t help but think a lighter set would be beneficial, especially with the weight I’m taking off the nose.
I’m currently looking for a set of .840 bars…. They seem to be unobtanium. If anyone knows where a set resides, please point me in a direction.
I’ve also read a little bit about having them ground down. “Centerless grinding” is the process I’ve read about. Anybody have experience with this? How much should I be concerned with this component? I would really like the car to unload the front end like a real racecar does. What do the Stock Eliminator & SuperStock guys do with current builds???

 

[Tex013]

LW i run the 880 bar . Due to difficulty in locating the 840 I wouldnt worry too hard . I have a World block sitting on top of mine no worries .
Do you have actual weight of fglass fenders or weighed both , steel/fglass ? Like you I have gotten more race than street now i have a rollbar. But as i still drive it weekly it can keep the bench seat .

Tex

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I don't know the sizes of the various torsion bars, but on mine, I kept the original small block bars and the car unloads the front rather fast with a big block. You have a similar setup in that you have a big block in a steel front and like Tex said, you won't notice much. Personally, I think the Mopar front suspension is one of the best adjustable and drag friendly systems.
Install those glass fenders, hood and bumper and look at every nook and cranny to shave weight while you're at it and that pup is going to get out and scoot.
Once you have the front frame rails, firewall, cowl and side aprons trued and figured out, your Jack-LaLane program can commence.
Now mind you, I am speaking from a STREET CAR perspective, LOL, not a RACE CAR brute.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

PS: Being that it looks like your K-member may be bent, If you're in the market for a new K, I would take into account DVW's excellent massaging and grooming of his K-member to lose weight and gain space.