Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[fullmetaljacket]

After looking in every possible direction I could think of for fenders, I finally decided to go the direction of WEIGHT LOSS, and ordered up fiberglass fenders, a pin-on hood with 5” RO23 scoop, and bumpers. Also planning on mounting the bumpers on aluminum brackets. The fiberglass shipment has already been recieved, and I have no remorse on the purchase yet.

I’ve accepted and embraced that this is a racecar. In the past it’s been a compromise; no more . The goal is to have one of the premier 67 Plymouth B-Body race cars in the country. I rarely drive the car on the street anymore, and when I do it’s just down to the local cruise night. So the specter of a rowdy racecar rolling through the parking lot is as much of a bonus there than it is at the track as far as I’m concerned.

We should be able to shave a good 150 lbs off of the car, most of it right up front where it counts. The goal is to bring it in under 3500lbs. Last time I weighed it, it was 3660. But that was with the old 8-3/4 out back and the stock seats and buddy seat in place. It now has a D60 in it, and I can attest that there’s a significant weight factor there. But it also has lightweight poly race seats now. Those two items just might have canceled each other out, and they certainly moved the center of gravity rearward.

A friend from High School (a LONG ways back ) who owns his own body shop is helping me with the body and paint work on an after hours “friends and family” sort of deal. He’s been instrumental in pushing me to get this project moving.

More updates to come….

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Let it be said, let it be done. You're now talking the language of Drag racers with a weight loss program. It will be better and faster than before. The drivetrain will stress less. Keep us posted.
Hint: Grade 2024 aluminum fasteners with the appropriate washers and nuts will cut a few more pounds especially when deleting the hood hinges.

 

[33 IMP]

Sorry for your loss!
You won't be the first or last victim of poor track maintenance.
I saw a car lose a ton of fluid at the finish line of our local track, and unfortunately nobody in the tower or on-track personal noticed. I tried to reach the guys in the timeslip booth in time to stop the racing, bit didn't make it. Next guy down track rolled a big block Vega several times.

 

[padam]

Very sorry to hear about this! I admire how you found peace about the situation quickly. We all can learn from this. I don't have a lot of laps but, I hear about these things often enough to be realistic. Ideally we have a spotter (how practical is that?) FWIW the rules speak against big-end braking/driving but, everyone that I know close DOES IT! Currently being a heads-up guy and tester I joke that "I won't ever lift" if I'm ahead of them in brackets (to chase an ET) All that said, the track should have been totally cleaned of course. Thanks for sharing.

Bracket racers love to race you guys

 

[Budnicks]

After looking in every possible direction I could think of for fenders, I finally decided to go the direction of WEIGHT LOSS, and ordered up fiberglass fenders, a pin-on hood with 5” RO23 scoop, and bumpers. Also planning on mounting the bumpers on aluminum brackets. The fiberglass shipment has already been recieved, and I have no remorse on the purchase yet.

I’ve accepted and embraced that this is a racecar. In the past it’s been a compromise; no more . The goal is to have one of the premier 67 Plymouth B-Body race cars in the country. I rarely drive the car on the street anymore, and when I do it’s just down to the local cruise night. So the specter of a rowdy racecar rolling through the parking lot is as much of a bonus there than it is at the track as far as I’m concerned.

We should be able to shave a good 150 lbs off of the car, most of it right up front where it counts. The goal is to bring it in under 3500lbs. Last time I weighed it, it was 3660. But that was with the old 8-3/4 out back and the stock seats and buddy seat in place. It now has a D60 in it, and I can attest that there’s a significant weight factor there. But it also has lightweight poly race seats now. Those two items just might have canceled each other out, and they certainly moved the center of gravity rearward.

A friend from High School (a LONG ways back ) who owns his own body shop is helping me with the body and paint work on an after hours “friends and family” sort of deal. He’s been instrumental in pushing me to get this project moving.

More updates to come….

View attachment 1943133

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Great decision should look great too...

never hurts to get a lil' weight off the nose for weight transfer
less wear on tires & brakes or shocks too

Win Win

 

[dvw]

The decision to make a no compromise racecar is a good one. As we all know its still a compromise As most of us are still using the factory floor pan, firewall, rails, etc. When mine was built I focused on 3 main items. Safety, weight, ease of service.Though it still has steel bumpers, fenders, stock unibody (except tubs). The weight empty is around 3125 with a Mega block and truck Dana. Weight reduction from chrome moly cage, moly tube steering shaft, moly tube strut rods, trimmed K frame, light brakes, aluminum drive shaft, light seats, lexan sie and rear windows with no regulators. Carbon bumper brackets, hood, and scoop (all homemade). Stuff that could be improved? Glass bumpers and deck lid, aluminum block, lexan windshield, light non stock steering wheel. If it it's not needed ? Cut it off.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

Thanks for the input, Doug. The “elephant” thread has been eye-opening and inspiring. You sharing your go-fast secrets is certainly helpful. This re-build will certainly attempt to incorporate as many helpful tricks as I can muster within a reasonable budget.
Since I’m at the suspension portion of the teardown phase, I’ll solicit opinions on TORSION BARS. My current set of .880” bars are in seemingly fine shape, but I can’t help but think a lighter set would be beneficial, especially with the weight I’m taking off the nose.
I’m currently looking for a set of .840 bars…. They seem to be unobtanium. If anyone knows where a set resides, please point me in a direction.
I’ve also read a little bit about having them ground down. “Centerless grinding” is the process I’ve read about. Anybody have experience with this? How much should I be concerned with this component? I would really like the car to unload the front end like a real racecar does. What do the Stock Eliminator & SuperStock guys do with current builds???

 

[Tex013]

LW i run the 880 bar . Due to difficulty in locating the 840 I wouldnt worry too hard . I have a World block sitting on top of mine no worries .
Do you have actual weight of fglass fenders or weighed both , steel/fglass ? Like you I have gotten more race than street now i have a rollbar. But as i still drive it weekly it can keep the bench seat .

Tex

 

[fullmetaljacket]

I don't know the sizes of the various torsion bars, but on mine, I kept the original small block bars and the car unloads the front rather fast with a big block. You have a similar setup in that you have a big block in a steel front and like Tex said, you won't notice much. Personally, I think the Mopar front suspension is one of the best adjustable and drag friendly systems.
Install those glass fenders, hood and bumper and look at every nook and cranny to shave weight while you're at it and that pup is going to get out and scoot.
Once you have the front frame rails, firewall, cowl and side aprons trued and figured out, your Jack-LaLane program can commence.
Now mind you, I am speaking from a STREET CAR perspective, LOL, not a RACE CAR brute.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

PS: Being that it looks like your K-member may be bent, If you're in the market for a new K, I would take into account DVW's excellent massaging and grooming of his K-member to lose weight and gain space.

 

[dvw]

Mine has the 774/775 (.860") slant six bars it came with. It's funny my sons car also has the same bars and is lighter in front than mine. It leaves flat with no wheelie. The 64 takes every thing to keep it down. Both run good 60 ft. His 62 is mid 3400 lbs. It has been 1.290/9.57. The 64 is mid 3300 lbs been 1.25/8.96. So more power, less weight equals better 60 ft. What I would suggest is if you are worried about traction, get the 1" longer upper ball joints to increase front end travel. These will require modifing the shock mount as the shock will be the limiting factor of travel. Strange shocks are even to short for factory travel. Use poly bushings in the lower and strut rods. We use rubber in the uppers as Moog is the only company that makes offset bushings. Every B Body needs offset bushings as the were designed to have very little caster. The strut rods on mine were cut apart. The ends machined down to fit into .090" moly tube. Then welded the ends into the tube. They were also shortened 3/8" to increase caster.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

Thanks Doug. Now we’re talking effective racecar stuff! I recall your tip on the offset bushings from a previous post. I have had that moog part # in my Summit wishlist for a while now. I just may give you a call at some point to go over the ball joint and strut rod mods.

After getting the fenders off, the Pass side frame rails and inner fender appear to be perfectly straight. I’ll measure it against the front clip I have to verify. With any luck, maybe we can save one side. Although the cowl has to come out someway anyway.….
Learning as I go here guys, but having fun. Wish me luck with the measurements.

You’re right about the K-member, FMJ. I’m worried it’s bent. It’s certainly sitting cocked due to the driver frame rail being bent…. Still need to get these components apart and measure them individually to know exactly where I sit. Plan all along has been to modify the existing K-member to shed as much heft as possible, as long as it’s salvagable.

 

[RemCharger]

Pull the DS torsion bar out. Might be a chore, have to loosen the lca possibly.. now put the lca back in, and slide the bar up to it. It should be apparent if it lines up. The bar could be bent as well.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Pull the DS torsion bar out. Might be a chore, have to loosen the lca possibly.. now put the lca back in, and slide the bar up to it. It should be apparent if it lines up. The bar could be bent as well.

I agree with Rem here. That bar on the drivers may now be bent.
I would also check the K-member mounting holes underneath on the passenger side to see if they were stretched outward from the pressure before you think of saving that side.
Also and also check the drivers side torsion bar crossmember to make sure that isn't out of line. You may or may not need to use your whole donor front clip, but measure a hundred times and cut once. Get a good measuring tape handy.

I'm sure I am preaching to the choir here, but most would just throw in the towel and get a donor car to start anew. Your car on the other hand has a presence and now a unique relationship with you. BRING THAT B!TC(-) BACK. Good luck.