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Recommendation Garage Floor Epoxy/Paint

For sure epoxy and welding/cutting/fabbing do not get along. I had lots of burn spots. Maybe I'll try the acid stain and sealer route next time. Don't remember what brand the epoxy was, got it from an industrial supply house. If I go back with that, may have to bring it in from out of state as the PRC is making it harder to get. I'll investigate when the time is right.
 
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I thought we had some left but I guess not. It was bought through Sherwin Williams though.
We weld, plasma cut, have parts cleaner , pressure wash and everthing else on this floor and have had no issues with epoxy. Like I said in my first post, the only thing that has touched it was brake fluid. It hardened back up after it was cleaned up a dried.
 
Colored conctete.
1. Does not wear off
2. If chipped the color is still there
3. Clean and reseal it looks like new

The biggest problem with concrete paint is it has to breath or it will not stay. Moisture barriers should be below the concrete not above it.
Find a commercial building materials supplier if you want the best product not the local big box store. Most paint store carry a commercial coating line.
Notice: Coatings not paint.

Personally I would use epoxy only on elevated surfaces.

Also when designing a garage floor a concrete base with a modified concrete overlay maybe a better way to go. Especially if corrosive elements are in its future.
A higher strength concrete will also refuce chipping.

Concrete can be half the building cost and not a good place to go cheap.
 
I also had a problem with my concrete spalling in the garage. I put down 2 or 3 coats of urathane and never had any problem with that ever again. I spilled solvents, oils and everything else on it and never damaged the finish. $.02
 
Peoples republic of china?
Close! If our governor "Moon Beam", aka Gerry Brown, has his way it will stand for that. Currently though its California, land of freebies, doobies, p/c, etc etc.
 
Okay, i get it. Peoples republic of california!
Much as i hate moonbeam, im confident our next governor will be worse.
 
Colored conctete.
1. Does not wear off
2. If chipped the color is still there
3. Clean and reseal it looks like new

The biggest problem with concrete paint is it has to breath or it will not stay. Moisture barriers should be below the concrete not above it.
Find a commercial building materials supplier if you want the best product not the local big box store. Most paint store carry a commercial coating line.
Notice: Coatings not paint.

Personally I would use epoxy only on elevated surfaces.

Also when designing a garage floor a concrete base with a modified concrete overlay maybe a better way to go. Especially if corrosive elements are in its future.
A higher strength concrete will also refuce chipping.

Concrete can be half the building cost and not a good place to go cheap.
I like colored concrete but the biggest problem for me is most concrete companies around here won't put it in their trucks because some of the color may end up in the next load. I suppose maybe if you were the last load of the day they might?
 
Since I'll be doing all types of fab work including welding I didn't think epoxy would be a good choice and instead acid stained mine then sealed it. My thoughts were epoxy burns and will get burn marks all over it from the welding whereas sealer should hold up better, be easier to touch up and can be waxed as well. My floor was stained to mimic natural stone/slate so the variety of color also makes blemishes less noticeable. I can take a better pic but this is all I have at the moment.View attachment 646662
How long do you have to wait on the concrete till you do the stain and sealer? I know the epoxy must have at least a 90 day timespan till you can put it on.
 
Say away J-25 sealer. Everything eats through it. Did my slab with it and have totally hated it for the last 11 years.
 
I like colored concrete but the biggest problem for me is most concrete companies around here won't put it in their trucks because some of the color may end up in the next load. I suppose maybe if you were the last load of the day they might?
Here they charge $50 washout fee per load of concrete.

I did a stamped and stained concrete project a couple years ago. Had stain that went into the truck and 2 different colored release agent powders to keep the stamps from sticking to the concrete. After that we sealed the floor with concrete sealer.

I have been thinking about using the colored release agent powders thrown on after screeding but before running the float over. Just get a random pattern then seal it with something durable. (I will be putting plastic and styro under the concrete)

When walking thru walmart last time i noticed the floor had just a clear finish over the concrete. What would that be? Sure seems durable for foot traffic and not too slippery. Would it be good for heavy equip? I know there are some biggies on scooters there but i will be driving tractors and combines in and out of the shop. Any help is appreciated.
 
How long do you have to wait on the concrete till you do the stain and sealer? I know the epoxy must have at least a 90 day timespan till you can put it on.
I'm not sure, it was quite a while before I did mine so I was well past the time frame. Google Decocrete or Kemco and see what they say but I believe it's not a long time, basically cured but has to be dry and not to humid.
 
Time is not the important factor for coatings. Concrete cures in 28 days to max strength. It will take years to completely cure.
Before applying stain or coatings the moisture content needs to be below the recommended level for the product being applied. Way to many variables to set a time. If the applicator is not checking .moisture content in the concrete or willing to find a different applicator.
Also with stains. If the concrete provider will not alow it in the mixer. Powdered stains on wet concrete ( just poured, not cured ) hold up better than liquid after cured.

Liquid stains can be a pain to remove. No one recommends staining over stain. Just something to think about.
 
This is the outdoor pad we did for our corn crib gazebo. Dye in the truck and then 2 different colored release powders before stamping then pressure washed when dried. A sealer was sprayed on after this pic was taken. That really brings out the color.

20160706_124321.jpg
 
What's 'burnished'? Looks like they're just finishing it in the video.
 
We just call that power trowelling in the midwest. Gives a super smooth finish. Did they put a sealer on afterward?
 
We just call that power trowelling in the midwest. Gives a super smooth finish. Did they put a sealer on afterward?
But not near a smooth as polished concrete. Polishing is done after the concrete had set but not cured. Almost mirror like before ever putting down a sealer.
Definitely not a garage floor finish unless your creating a show room.
 
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