reducing under-hood temps

[HT413]

Parachute? No-way. I was only on the street --not dragging the car. Like I said, the opening was only about 1 1/2 inch--but about 3 feet wide. I know that on my Stewart Warner Gauges, my temp ran much cooler. Actually, I'm thinking about doing that to my 66 Belvedere. While being a MOPAR person for over 50 years, I've tried about every trick in the book, and added a few chapters of my own. I got the idea when working at the Cotton Owens garage in South Carolina during the early 60's.

Fair enough. But things like thes are bandaids - if you need to add an air dam for the car to run better, there is something else wrong. My car was having some fuel boiling issues until I noticed a few things:

1- down low, the fuel mine did run a bit closer to the headers than maybe was necessary

2- after the mechanical fuel pump, the fuel line ran a bit closer to the motor than necessary

3- the carb was getting so hot I actually burnt myself on it while making some adjustments to the throttle cable while it was running.

So after rerouting the fuel line and then adding a 1" carb spacer, the car ran far better than ever and eliminated the fuel boiling issue. I considered adding heat wrap to the fuel line but it turned out not to be necessary.

 

[ScottVA]

If your fuel line has a large percentage of rubber line being run, the rubber will expand under pressure reducing the fuel pressure and thus lowering the vapor pressure of the fuel. Run metal line for as much of the distance as you can and insulate it.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Amaco still sells nonalcoholic premium in our area and that's all I run in the B's. No problem with rubber parts and fuel going bad in short term storage. Also no vapor lock.

 

[slepr1]

I noticed my underhood temp rose when I switched to an aluminum rad. The heat coming off that thing was large. I thought it was due to the aluminum being able to transfer heat quicker and that was the advantage of an aluminum rad. If I had to do it again, I would stay with the stock rad.