Silly question - 6 pack 440

[Mopewbie]

Hi all.
I'm trying to run the car a bit better, it's way too rich.
The exhaust keeps spitting black sludge all the time, cold or hot, no stop.

I've been playing with timing and a vacuum gauge, managed to get a better result and way better response but I know that's not the way.
Also the idle screw is completely loose and the rpm still high, if I force it down the rpm will decrease but that means i need a very strong spring?! Definitely can't be right.

Car is sounding fine but still needs adjustment. So silly question are... what are those screws in the center carb for? If I close it and turn to open it will go almost 2 turns if much and that's it, and no difference whatsoever in the engine sound.

What's the ideal timing for it? I'm attaching a pic showing where it is at the moment.

I know the front and rear can be adjusted by some magic since it's impossible to reach the mixture screws but would love to avoid that.

Also here's a link to a quick video showing the exhaust:



What am I missing here?

Thank you.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Check your float level.

 

[Orig69]

What fuel pump are you using?

 

[Mopewbie]

Check your float level.

All of them? Seems to be ok apart from the last one but will double check tomorrow. Thank you.

 

[eldubb440]

there are no silly questions......

 

[440 PHIXX]

All of them? Seems to be ok apart from the last one but will double check tomorrow. Thank you.

Yes. Pull the site plug one at a time, and adjust til the fuel is just dripping out. It’s been a while but, the metering block screws on the side of the center carb should be turned in til they lightly seat, and then backed out 1 1/4 turns.

Adjust the float levels with the car idling. If you don’t have a 502 cam.

 

[70sixpkrt]

I would adjust the outboard carbs mixture screws no more than 1/4 - 1/2 turn out from seated. Those screws that you circled are mixture screws for the center carb. It looks like you still have the caps on the screws. Take the caps off and you will see a small screw under the cap. Screw them all the way in and then out about 1 1/2 turns.

 

[440 PHIXX]

For the timing, I use 10 degrees BTDC. And 32-35 full advance at 2800 RPM.

 

[Mopewbie]

Hi-flow sending unit going through this:

 

[440 PHIXX]

I ran an electric into the Carter mechanical on my Six Packs and had about 7-8 psi at the carb fuel line. You might want to put a gauge on to varify.

I also used the factory metal vapor separator, and ran the return line.

 

[Orig69]

That looks like a hi-po Carter fuel pump it can put out 7-1/2 psi plus an electric fuel pump that could be why it's running too rich.

 

[440 PHIXX]

That looks like a hi-po Carter fuel pump it can put out 7-1/2 psi plus an electric fuel pump that could be why it's running too rich.

That set up was recommended in the DC Engine Manual. I have it on both my Charger and ‘Cuda. It doesn’t need a regulator. Like I said in a previous post, it was about 8 psi at the carbs, after the vapor separator and filter.

The electric pump is just pushing it up to the mechanical pump. I’m running the stock fuel line.

 

[dadeo]

That screw in the idle mixture position of the metering block looks like a fuel bowl vent screw to me - yikes? Does it have a tapered end like this?

 

[Demonic]

It might be happier at 7 psi. 2300 carbs were known for throttle shaft bind. If it needs a stronger spring to go back down, look for that problem and cure it.

 

[Daves69]

What are your plugs telling ya?

Maybe, shut it off after running and spitting, disconnect the outboard throttle return rods. Open the outboards and look down the bores for raw fuel or puddles.

DO NOT FORGET TO RE-ATTACH THOSE RODS!

Review this........

 

[Orig69]

That set up was recommended in the DC Engine Manual. I have it on both my Charger and ‘Cuda. It doesn’t need a regulator. Like I said in a previous post, it was about 8 psi at the carbs, after the vapor separator and filter.

The electric pump is just pushing it up to the mechanical pump. I’m running the stock fuel line.

My car ran too rich with the same mechanical fuel pump when I replaced it there was no more running too rich.

 

[Mopewbie]

My car ran too rich with the same mechanical fuel pump when I replaced it there was no more running too rich.

Thank all for the replies about the pump, I'll try to measure the pressure.

 

[Mopewbie]

What are your plugs telling ya?

Maybe, shut it off after running and spitting, disconnect the outboard throttle return rods. Open the outboards and look down the bores for raw fuel or puddles.

DO NOT FORGET TO RE-ATTACH THOSE RODS!

Review this........

Plugs are looking just fine, much better than it was before I decided to fiddle with timing.

 

[Mopewbie]

That screw in the idle mixture position of the metering block looks like a fuel bowl vent screw to me - yikes? Does it have a tapered end like this?

View attachment 1531313

View attachment 1531314

No, can only turn like 1,5 turn at most but has been mentioned that it's acap, mayne I can find the tapered behind and make my life easier.

 

[440 PHIXX]

My car ran too rich with the same mechanical fuel pump when I replaced it there was no more running too rich.

You could always run a regulator. My problem was fuel starvation at WOT. The electric pump cured that. I even opened up the metering plates as per the DC Manual. Yellow springs I think. This was back in the 80’s with no internet. So many guys gave up on the Six Pack because it had been tuned incorrectly. I just followed the instructions.