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Six Pack float adjustment issue -squirting fuel out

440beep

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This is a first for me, but when adjusting the float level on the secondaries, fuel squirts out from from the adjustment nuts. Never happened before, but I just replaced the needle and seat. Fuel levels are low in bowls and can’t seem to adjust it. Wonder if floats are stuck inside?

Or is the fuel just squirting out because the needle is releasing the fuel out?
 
Why were you replacing the needle and seat?
 
Normal maintenance and it had been years.
 
This is a first for me, but when adjusting the float level on the secondaries, fuel squirts out from from the adjustment nuts. Never happened before, but I just replaced the needle and seat. Fuel levels are low in bowls and can’t seem to adjust it. Wonder if floats are stuck inside?

Or is the fuel just squirting out because the needle is releasing the fuel out?
IMO....a lot depends on which style/rebuild kit you used. The best kits are by Holley and the replacement needle valve assemble, hex adjusting net, hex adjusting nut lock screw, O-rings, and fiber sealing washers permit adjustability while providing leak free operation after adjustment. Personally, I run my Holley's fuel level at the bottom of the sight hole (+/- an RCH). For me it reduces, somewhat, the hot start after a hot soak, due to fuel expansion.....ethanol blended fuels not withstanding....
Some aftermarket kits use an slightly different method for adjustment.....the hex nut is the lock mechanism with the slotted screw the adjustment method.....just opposite of the Holley way of adjustment. My preference is Holley kits.....slightly more $$$ but every thing fits and functions as origional.
BOB RENTON
 
Yes, the parts are Holley and I run the fuel levels right at the sight hole so it just weeps out when I nudge the fender.
 
Squirts out all the time, or just when you loosen to adjust? If the latter, that is normal. Just get throught it.
 
Yes, just when I loosen the lock screw. That’s what I was thinking initially because the fuel pressure gauge slowly drops to zero as the fuel seeps out. Ok, will power through it.
 
That's why there are gaskets on both sides. Once you crack it loose, you don't know exactly what you'll get. With practice and technique building, it will be pretty minimal when you get a squirter.
 
When you back off the center slotted lock screw on a Holley, so you can turn the hex nut to raise or lower the float setting, that relaxes compression on the 2 gaskets under the hex head nut and center screw and they will leak a little fuel if the engine is running. just barely back off the slotted screw enough to be able to turn the hex head nut and it shouldn’t do much more than seep a little. Or shut the motor down to make the adjustment, but residual pressure above the needle and in the fuel line will still usually spirt out some fuel when the center slotted screw is loosened.

Or am I misunderstanding your question?
 
Nope, you understand correctly. Thanks
When you back off the center slotted lock screw on a Holley, so you can turn the hex nut to raise or lower the float setting, that relaxes compression on the 2 gaskets under the hex head nut and center screw and they will leak a little fuel if the engine is running. just barely back off the slotted screw enough to be able to turn the hex head nut and it shouldn’t do much more than seep a little. Or shut the motor down to make the adjustment, but residual pressure above the needle and in the fuel line will still usually spirt out some fuel when the center slotted screw is loosened.

Or am I misunderstanding your question?
 
When you back off the center slotted lock screw on a Holley, so you can turn the hex nut to raise or lower the float setting, that relaxes compression on the 2 gaskets under the hex head nut and center screw and they will leak a little fuel if the engine is running. just barely back off the slotted screw enough to be able to turn the hex head nut and it shouldn’t do much more than seep a little. Or shut the motor down to make the adjustment, but residual pressure above the needle and in the fuel line will still usually spirt out some fuel when the center slotted screw is loosened.

Or am I misunderstanding your question?
At engine shut down, the residual pressure will dissipate via the fuel vapor separator bleed orifice, as its designed to do. When making fuel level adjustments, especially with the engine running, one must be quick and deliberate AND have a CO2 fire extinguisher handy.....just in case......
BOB RENTON
 
Problem solved. I pulled the needles back out to clean and I noticed the soft gaskets had developed significant fuzzies from adjusting. I’m thinking this was causing the problems because now I have float adjustment again. Before, no matter what I did, the fuel level wouldn’t rise. NOW, the fuel comes out when site screws are loosened.
 
At engine shut down, the residual pressure will dissipate via the fuel vapor separator bleed orifice, as its designed to do. When making fuel level adjustments, especially with the engine running, one must be quick and deliberate AND have a CO2 fire extinguisher handy.....just in case......
BOB RENTON
Indeed!
 
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