Where did you get the harness made for the controller?
Sniper Efi 68 Charger
- Thread starter Pool Fixer
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Wietse
Well-Known Member
Did you get the complete Hyperspark kit? Including the complete harness which is wrapped in black protective sleeve?
It looks nice, though i feared having excessive lengths on the wiring and the need to cut it anyway.
I did cut the coil wire and shortened it, now waiting as i ordered several sizes of this plastic protective wrapping to do the whole harness to give it a clean look.
Today i also installed the Hyperspark box in the corner next to the radiator, the coil is a bit further towards the shock tower.
I have no experience with it, but i read several times they do not recommend to install the coil next to the Sniper on the manifold.
The coil is claimed to cause interference, not sure if that is confirmed or not.
It looks nice, though i feared having excessive lengths on the wiring and the need to cut it anyway.
I did cut the coil wire and shortened it, now waiting as i ordered several sizes of this plastic protective wrapping to do the whole harness to give it a clean look.
Today i also installed the Hyperspark box in the corner next to the radiator, the coil is a bit further towards the shock tower.
I have no experience with it, but i read several times they do not recommend to install the coil next to the Sniper on the manifold.
The coil is claimed to cause interference, not sure if that is confirmed or not.
drhill
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I did the Sniper EFI Conversion on this 68 Barracuda. Coil is mounted on the intake in front of the throttle body and is causing no issues.
I’ve been reading of problems using dual plane intake and I have a performer RPM. I had forgot which one as I put it on like 20 years ago. Turns it it’s an air gap so the divider is cut down, but with nearly zero hood clearance even with a drop base air cleaner, I have no room for a spacer if need be.
I ordered a street dominator which came yesterday. I’m going to swap it out. Engine builder talked me out of painting the RPM engine color 20 years ago so the SD is getting paint
I have a 4 hole 1/2” aluminum 4 hole spacer and a 3/8” thick cometec 4 hole carb gasket… was thinking of running that with the SD for temp isolation. I’ve never run a carb spacer before and don’t know which is best. I had this stuff laying around so it’s free.
The last photo I posted is what I have. Don’t know if I even need to run the spacer and if I do, is what I have right? And if it is right, what order do I stack them up?
I ordered a street dominator which came yesterday. I’m going to swap it out. Engine builder talked me out of painting the RPM engine color 20 years ago so the SD is getting paint
I have a 4 hole 1/2” aluminum 4 hole spacer and a 3/8” thick cometec 4 hole carb gasket… was thinking of running that with the SD for temp isolation. I’ve never run a carb spacer before and don’t know which is best. I had this stuff laying around so it’s free.
The last photo I posted is what I have. Don’t know if I even need to run the spacer and if I do, is what I have right? And if it is right, what order do I stack them up?
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Wietse
Well-Known Member
I am using the performer rpm manifold and have no issues.
My stealth sniper is directly mounted on it with just a gasket, i don't think you need to complicate the installation with spacers.
My stealth sniper is directly mounted on it with just a gasket, i don't think you need to complicate the installation with spacers.
I’m running the Hustle Stuff Edelbrock CH4B. No issues.
This is how I roll haha. Definitely experiencing some mission creep and I’m letting perfect be the enemy of good
speaking of something nobody was talking about, my car came with a tic tic clock, no tach. I’d like to get a repro tach. What would I need to run one of those with sniper? I’d prob go with the one that looks like a tic toc tac without the tic toc part .
Wietse
Well-Known Member
If you go for the (repro) tic-toc-tach you will require a Tach adapter to make it work.
I am using an MSD 8920 adapter for my OER repro tack, just follow the wiring diagram for Voltage triggered setup.
If you decide to use one, do not mount it inside as they make quite some buzzing sound, keep it in the engine bay.
Other aftermarket types can be connected direct on the brown rpm output wire of the sniper I believe.
I have mine mounted inside, and don’t hear it.
I have mine connected to the tach lead on the Sniper Stealth EFI.
What are your thoughts on running wires under the intake? I’ve seen people do it and it gives a nice clean look but since there’s only a Jenky piece of tin between the world and the lifter valley, doesn’t it get too hot?
I have some wires tucked under the back to hide the connections. The distributor and water temp are the only 2 that follow the OE wire harness.
I did use harness tape on the wiring, to make it blend.
Going under the intake, wouldn't be an issue.
New intake installed, hyperspark distributor installed. Fuel lines and filter complete. Most of the wiring complete. Need to make wires as the hyperspark has an hei style cap.
Also, my original coil mount idea prob won’t cut it. I was already worried about it being so close to the front of the TB where the ecu is… and now that it’s sitting there, it’s touching the valve cover and the dist cap. I may go for a cleaner look and put it on the firewall
I also ordered a set of cast aluminum valve covers that Mancini sells. Got the plain black ones. Plan is to paint them engine color. Not sure if they are wrinkle finish or not.
Just a crazy thought, maybe they will be thick enough to drill and tap for very small screws to mount some wire loom holders?
Also, my original coil mount idea prob won’t cut it. I was already worried about it being so close to the front of the TB where the ecu is… and now that it’s sitting there, it’s touching the valve cover and the dist cap. I may go for a cleaner look and put it on the firewall
I also ordered a set of cast aluminum valve covers that Mancini sells. Got the plain black ones. Plan is to paint them engine color. Not sure if they are wrinkle finish or not.
Just a crazy thought, maybe they will be thick enough to drill and tap for very small screws to mount some wire loom holders?
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Wietse
Well-Known Member
Good progress, getting close to fire it up again.
That hyperspark coil is huge, I was surprised when i unboxed it and seen it has such a big foot print.
I bought several sizes of black cable sleeve (self closing) and once all wiring was done wrapped all cable harness with it for a cleaner look, and it provides some protection against abrasion if any.
Just curious, what type serpentine belt system do you have there?
That hyperspark coil is huge, I was surprised when i unboxed it and seen it has such a big foot print.
I bought several sizes of black cable sleeve (self closing) and once all wiring was done wrapped all cable harness with it for a cleaner look, and it provides some protection against abrasion if any.
Just curious, what type serpentine belt system do you have there?
got it 8 or 9 years ago from jerry at SD concepts. There's I found it on Moparts. There's a few systems out there but it bothers me a little that they call them serpentine kits but it's multiple belts still. That's just a peeve of mine and when I hear "serpentine" I think of modern cars with one belt.
This one is one belt. It does run the water pump in reverse but that was made clear up front and shouldn't make a difference if you run a flowkooler or similar straight vaned WP.
Pro's:
-uses off the shelf parts for the actual belt drive available at any autoparts store- tensioner, idler pulley, etc..
-doesn't come with any of the accessories, so you source them yourself locally. It's all magnum 5.2/5.9 stuff. alternator, power steering pump.
-the only thing "custom" are the massive aluminum brackets so any breakage down the road would be in off the shelf parts
Cons:
-moved the accessories forward. I couldn't fit it so I moved my radiator in front of the core support. My rad is a monster thick aftermarket Fluidyne so maybe someting wider and thinner would work.
-water pump runs backwards so have to choose that carefully
-designed for modern replacement aluminum WP housings. I had to get a little jiggy with spacers to make it work with my OE '71 smogger 440 WP housing.
-I dont' know if he makes them anymore.
Rad in front of core support… don’t judge me, I don’t own a welder lol
This is the part where I say It's not my best work.... but that's a lie. It's about as good as I'm capable of. Honestly, it hurt to cut into the car at all. I'm a fan of mods you can unbolt to go back to stock... but this is a factory 318 car and functionally, it works and I now have a ton of room betweeb the front of the engine and the rad, even with the fans mounted.
This is the part where I say It's not my best work.... but that's a lie. It's about as good as I'm capable of. Honestly, it hurt to cut into the car at all. I'm a fan of mods you can unbolt to go back to stock... but this is a factory 318 car and functionally, it works and I now have a ton of room betweeb the front of the engine and the rad, even with the fans mounted.
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If you wanted to, they do offer the round OE looking Hyperspark coil.
I removed the label, and put ECS's OE coil decal on it.
Holley Sniper EFI 556-153 Sniper EFI Canister Ignition Coil
New for the Sniper EFI product line is a factory replacement Sniper EFI canister style ignition coil. This ignition coil is potted with a premium grade epoxy, making it perfect for high vibration environments and can be mounted in any direction (horizontal, vertical, or upside down). No oil...
www.holley.com
Ebay, a guy makes the controller extension to your length, so I have it coming out of my console, and I added the splitter, so I have the Holley dongle accessible in the console.
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