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You are right, it was back further.
I've seen a dent just like that removed from paintless dent removal, its just finding a good one. can't even see it unless you know its there took about 45 minutes and $300.00 I wouldn't touch it could cause more damage with a little too much push
My son had good success with a basketball. Insert stabilize then inflate. It's pretty easy to control. Might be with a try.
Yep, why I stopped with the plunger bit in a hurry. The hairdryer at first did take what I'd estimate to be "half" the dent out just by getting it hot, but then stopped doing anything. The plunger bit was quickly abandoned once I saw that the dent (or at least a good portion of it) was popping out, then right back in. By the way, the paint codes for anyone who knows what they mean (holy crap, 11 years ago!):
that's a list of tints by weight..... you have the recipe........ would be best to know what brand it is and find a supplier who sells it
1st I have seen this Ed. Let the PDR guy try. A good one can really surprise you as long as he isn't working near or under filler. That said, The ding is very fixable , you have the paint code, A good body man will blend the color staying away from the door and clear the qt. If you have a good painter its going to work out fine.
No repair ideas to add, just wanted to say it made me sick to see it. Hope it works out, no pun intended. That is a beautiful car.
I'm all for PDR, absolutely. That would be a wonderful thing.
Thanks. She's a good 20 footer for sure. I need to get some touch up paint made up off those codes as it is, though. Lots of amateur painter booboo's on the car, but I'm not fussing about them since I have never even tried to paint a car myself. Oh heck, almost forgot... My friend with the local body shop was trying to distract me from my self-anger and mentioned I should busy myself trying to get a lot of old compound out of the nooks and crannies the previous owner had left. When I told him I'd tried all sorts of stuff and was on the verge of chucking up a brush in a Dremel, he laughed and said to get some 3M adhesive remover instead. Well, I did. Tried some this evening and I was amazed. The crap WORKS!
Isopropyl Alcohol and water mixed 1 to 1 in a spray bottle. Will take care of hard left over rubbing compound. Some rubbing may be required.
For whatever it is worth.. My paint mixer said it is near impossible to match older paint, even if you know the factory paint code.. He say's because the materials they used then. is no longer available.. For example, years back there was lead in the paint, and lead affects the color.................MO
Well now, that's a good question Mo. Was there stuff in paint from 11 years ago that isn't in it now? I'm betting lead wasn't in it then either, though...
Certainly cheaper than this 3M stuff, that's for sure. I'm spraying sparingly onto a microfiber towel, then just wiping with a minimum of pressure and the old compound literally dissolves like nothing. It's like MAGIC!
I did the same thing last year. I have single stage paint and it was not cheap to repair my fender. Looks great and no problem with the paint matching.
I can relate. I did the same thing as well last fall. It cracked the paint in one area and I haven’t even taken it to anyone yet... made me sick for sure!
Ed, Paintless Dent Removal should be able to take care of that with NO sign that it was ever hurt. Like was said, you need to find a guy who is very well versed in the art, even if it involves taking it to a large city out of your area. I've used several guys with fantastic results. A few I've declined to let touch the cars based on their apparent inexperience or indecision about how good the repair would turn out. One involved a motorcycle tank that had a 2x6 fall on it during an earth quake. The corner put a pretty good crease in the tank. The tech was stoked to have something out of the ordinary and took it on as a challenge to his expertise. Came out perfect... I think it is money well spent to find the right guy and avoid all the problems associated with paint matching. You always have that as Plan B, if necessary.
Used Paintless Dent Removal on my wives Stratus. It was right in the middle of the back door. Looked great. Then about 5 years after, that the area started to rust. No rust on the rest of the car. It was like the paint separated from the metal.
You mentioned Hagarty, problem solved..... they will easily shell out enough to fix the dent, and paint the entire side to match. Find someone who can handle it if you have to search the planet for a super talented pdr artist.......... he aint working cheap, he may or may not achieve the desired result, and he may not even exist....... if you're gonna spend time, energy, and money; just give it a proper dent repair. remember.... these pdr guys are fixing late model stuff on car lots, and the metal they are used to working with is pretty flimsy.... most of them are hacks, I've seen it all
The PDR is worth a shot. We have two very talented ones up here. They’re expensive and worth it. I had a couple of dents taken out of my wife’s beater Pontiac and one out of her new Hellcat. You couldn’t tell where they were on either car. I’ve seen more hacks in the paint and body trade than PDR.
The appraiser was out last Friday. Seemed like a nice enough fellow and told me enough about his experience (he has several years practical experience) that I felt ok with him doing it. I told him all I knew about the damage and especially lobbied him about what my friend had warned about (paint matching). Without hesitation, the fellow agreed and told me the respray would no doubt include the entire roof, along with the quarter "to the nearest demarcation line" (meaning folds/seams I guess). He asked if I was ok with Hagerty cutting the body shop the check, assuring me they would not be paid until I was happy with the work. I think it's going to be ok. Waiting on the process now.