Speaker suggestions for a decent sound system

General Mopar Tech Discussions

  1. 1972GY8SE

    1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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    Agree.
    Botton line is the system components are mismatched.
    So, either add the appropriate power to match the current speaker requirements or replace the speakers to match the existing head unit output.
    And good luck locating speakers with such a low nominal power spec, I have been looking for myself, I also need rear speakers and don't want to add an amp.
     
  2. biomedtechguy

    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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    From the (one, crowded) picture, it looks like the sound comes from the ports, so if that is the only exit point to move the air, then that is the best way to position it, with the ports closest to the parallel surface.
    That is another way to boost SPL (Sound Pressure Level, measured in dB) called "corner loading". If you look at 2 surfaces, shaped like a L, you have one corner already, and then if you add vertical corners, that can boost SPL again.
     
  3. 1972GY8SE

    1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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    I found this set on eBay.

    Up for sale is (2) NEW 6x9 car audio speakers. These are OEM basic replacements for low wattage applications. Get yours today at this excellent price! Price includes shipping to the lower 48 states.
    Output Power: 60 Watts (P.M.P.O.) 30Watts (R.M.S.)
    each speaker
    Frequency Response: 50Hz~20KHz
    Sensitivity: 89dB/W(1M)
    Impedance: 4 Ohm
    Mounting Depth - 3"
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-6x9-...o-Stereo-Replacement-Pair-4-ohm-/160918957382


    Like KD, I would be happy if the stereo sounded as good as a basic modern OEM system.
    I don't listen to ear-piercingly loud techno music anymore. :)
     
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    • biomedtechguy

      biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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      That spec I quoted makes those a non-starter. I've tried to emphasize how important efficiency is, and you post 89dB speakers...:poke::p
      Let me spell it out, using those as an example, along with the 22 WPC your amp puts out.
      89dB@1w 90=2w 91=4w 92=8w 93=16w
      By 94 dB, your done, at 32WPC. Look at that color sound chart, and decide if that's loud enough for you. Better keep your windows up to keep wind noise out.
      EDIT: That opinion is based on the paperwork posted, that showed 22WPC, 50WPC max. Adjust according to your amp output, and your desired dB level.
       
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      • RJRENTON

        RJRENTON FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        All well and good.....
        But for me, I'd rather listen to the engine....the sounds of the engine as it approaches 6000 RPM in top of second gear and the shift to 3rd and the six barrel carbs open sucking in 1350 CFMs of air, the drone of the FlowMasters, and the whine of the trans..... BTW....the old Mopar AM (only) radio works...but who cares....the engine sounds SO much better...... after all....isn't this what its all about???? Just my opinion of course.
        BOB RENTON
         
      • biomedtechguy

        biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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        All of THAT is exactly why a guy like me, who loves music and is into really good gear, car and home, has NO interest in having a radio or sound system in my Roadrunner!
        For me, that mechanical music is EXACTLY what I want to cherish when I'm driving Miss Victory!
         
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        • 1972GY8SE

          1972GY8SE Well-Known Member

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          Thanks for the info Bio.
          I was too focused on the nominal spec.
          I am looking at some Kappa's now.
          Power Handling
          110W RMS, 330W peak
          Sensitivity (@ 2.83V)
          96dB
          Frequency Response
          35Hz – 30kHz
          Voice Coil Diameter
          1-1/16in. (35mm)
          Impedance
          2.5 ohms
           
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          • Kern Dog

            Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Not sure if this is directed to me but I never mentioned having an amp. I do not have one.
             
          • biomedtechguy

            biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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            Yes it is, yes you do, it's built in to the head unit, and those are your power output levels. You especially could benefit from high efficiency speakers!
             
          • biomedtechguy

            biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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            :thumbsup: :lowdown: Just check the amp section compatibility with the rather low impedance @ 2.5 Ohms
            Also, men generally can't hear frequencies above around 16kHz (from years of women screetching at us) women up to about 18kHz, but most speakers are rated from 20Hz to 20kHz which is considered the full audible sound spectrum.
            I am thrilled that my Theater Room sub is rated down to an astonishing 11 Hz!! That is subsonic THUMP you FEEL, but because of the size and design of the 2 14" long excursion woofers and the 4 14" passive radiators, it's also very FAST and TIGHT. Add in the ButtKickers, and explosions are something you really FEEL!
            The surprising thing about the ButtKickers is that they are great for bass in music too, especially at lower volume levels where bass naturally becomes more difficult to perceive. The sensation of bass makes the brain think it "hears" more bass! Very cool!
             
            Last edited: Dec 22, 2019
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            • Paul Boucher

              Paul Boucher FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Kern, you are not slow if you are driving that Charger! Just remember that!

              As for the speakers, I think you would probably be better off, if you are OK with it, installing a smaller 4 channel amplifier to drive your speakers. You don't need anything huge. Something in the 45-75watt RMS range should be good.

              Most will probably be around 50 watt RMS. This is just a consistent rating, all amps will have also have a peak power rating, meaning that on heavy notes, or turned up, they will produce a lot more wattage for short periods of time, so do let it fool you that your speakers are rated 120 watt RMS, but you would only be using a 50-75 watt RMS amp. It should still be more than enough to do what you want to do.

              From the specs and the reviews I read, your speakers are pretty good and you would really be downgrading to try to find ones that would work using the head unit for power alone. Your head unit is good as well, and can be tweaked by the right person to help dial it in with the amp to sound really good.

              If you try to power speakers from your head unit alone, it will never sound as good, loud, or as much bass as your Ram, (not even close) even with matching more efficient speakers to the head unit. I think if you bought new speakers you'd just be disappointed again and end up wasting money. A small 4 channel amp would be money better spent.

              You could probably get one with the wiring kit for $150-175ish to $250-275ish depending on brand and your budget. I would look at Kenwood, Alpine, JL Audio, Memphis Audio, Rockford Fosgate, JBL Audio, Pioneer, or Kicker. They should all be around that price range and will be able to do what you want.

              I would also say that with a smaller 4 channel amp and the size of your speakers you should most likely not have to do anything to your electrical system. If you add a subwoofer at any point to the mix you would most likely need to do something.

              I would suggest, having worked at them, go to an actual auto audio store, skip the big box stores like Best Buy, and tell them what you want to do (a basic 4 channel amp to boost your output some), and see what they have. The stereo store will be able to better elaborate on the differences and/or advantages of one brand over the other, and maybe have something on sale.

              Again, I would avoid anything with crazy power ratings (like 250 watts rms / 2000 watts peak), all the cheap brands, as they will all sound like crap, or burn up; like Zues, Hifonics, Dual, Boss, Autotek, Pyle, Pyramid, Lanzar, or Planet Audio. If you go somewhere and that is what they are pushing, walk right out.

              Hope this helps. Paul
               
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              • biomedtechguy

                biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                One of the things I admire about the mid 2000s Ford GT is the "optional McIntosh sound system"
                THAT says 1st Class
                 
              • rumblefish360

                rumblefish360 Well-Known Member

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                OH! I forgot to mention, I also installed a stiff foam basket sold through Crutchfield, that helps base response and overall sound under or behind each speaker. It helps keep the sound moving forward rather than into the doors and trunk.

                The only other thing I can think of is if your speakers RMS power handling of, say, 150 watts, then a amplifier w/a RMS or let’s say, 50 watts is used, the sound will not be so good at the top end of its power out put. The louder you push it the worse sounding it will get.

                 
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                • biomedtechguy

                  biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                  Maximum power handling capability has nothing to do with your premise.
                  Distortion as a function of power output and speaker power handling capability would come into play if you were to exceed the rated power handling capacity of the speaker, and that distortion would be due to the speaker physically deforming, and possibly overheating of the voice coil (that drives the magnet to make the speaker move).
                  If you push any amplifier up its power output range, at the upper levels to max power output, the level of distortion generally increases.
                  A couple of things to look for in an amplifier regarding distortion is the stated distortion level @ RMS power output as well as the stated frequency that they measure that number at. ANY full range amplifier (vs a dedicated subwoofer amp) should have its power output and distortion level rated from 20Hz to 20kHz! If the full range amp is rated at 1kHz, THEY ARE CHEATING and you can bet the full range distortion level will be significantly higher, and/or the "power output" capability is less, possibly HALF of what is stated at the relatively easy to power 1kHz.
                   
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                  • biomedtechguy

                    biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                    Another thing to look for is ANY amp that has its distortion level rated as .0X @ stated power output. "Point zero" followed by any number (the lower the better) is a great low distortion level.
                    OTOH, I'm seeing all of the amps I've quickly scanned at Crutchfield rated at 1%THD, and that's ok too, as long as they rate ALL of them at 1%. Otherwise, for example, an amp that puts out 50 WPC at .08 THD would likely achieve 150-200 WPC at 1% THD.
                    You see why I can't stay heavily involved in this thread. I have work to do.
                    I'm trying to help, but there's a lot involved.
                    If you can find someone local who is both knowledgeable AND trustworthy, that is a good place to start.
                     
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                    • Paul Boucher

                      Paul Boucher FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                      Then you can throw in THD % ratings at different ohm resistance...:rofl:...brains fried!
                       
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                      • 451Mopar

                        451Mopar Well-Known Member

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                        I put some Infinity Kappas in the Convertible. Pretty decent sound considering not the best speaker placements. Did need a sub for low bass, driving top down on the car really kills the bass response.

                        The Kappas have a pretty high sensitivity (more sound per power put into them), I think 94+ db@2.83v. Range is good too, 35Hz to 35,000 Hz. Not sure why they need such a high range, maybe to please my dog?
                        https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108K90CSXM/Infinity-Kappa-90csx.html?tp=106
                         
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                        • rumblefish360

                          rumblefish360 Well-Known Member

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                          Then the below is also wrong because this is what I was saying. Perhaps I worded it wrong?
                          I think we are in the same page.
                          :thumbsup:
                           
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                          • rumblefish360

                            rumblefish360 Well-Known Member

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                            Good advice on finding a trustworthy place.
                            It is hard to “Nutshell” this topic with description.

                            @Kern Dog

                            I have out together a few systems (not overly complicated) over the years that friends of mine were really impressed with. But I think it was easy. Staying with one manufacturer for everything produced really produced nice results.

                            Also having a salesperson that actually knows there stuff is freakin great! I like the smaller shops for this because this. The owner is the installer and is a salesman for what he carries. The guy I like the best said to me “I don’t wanna well you a system. But it will be you that will decide if you like what I have or not. The system will sell itself. I’ll explain anything you want to know. What is it you want from your stereo?”

                            I didn’t always purchase what he had but he was my first stop each and every time. Small shop, limited space & inventory.

                            Anyways, keep asking around. Try a shop or two. Find them audio junkies. Ask questions.

                            So far my personal favorites have been an entire Kenwood set up and my 4 Infinity speaker set up in my Magnum with the 10 sub. It’s a little mish mashy of parr’s, but there all quality units.
                             
                            Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
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                            • biomedtechguy

                              biomedtechguy Accelerati Rapidus Maximus FBBO Gold Member

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                              I was going to say that "dog" thing but forgot. Good one!
                              Remember too, if anyone for home or car audio installs an INDEPENDENTLY powered subwoofer AND crosses OUT the bass that the sub plays, the rest of the speakers will sound better AND the amp(s) driving them as well as the speakers themselves will work more efficiently!
                              My sub handles 40Hz down, my main 3 front speakers are rated at 32Hz on the low frequency end, so the roll off is 12dB per octave (not a "brick wall" filter). That means my mains still put out kick drum and a LOT of bass, but the deepest stuff comes from the sub, freeing up power in my main amps and the sub only has to handle 60Hz down, main 3 fronts 40Hz up, and the other 6 speakers in my 9.1 surround system, although most are rated below 50Hz, are rolled off at 60Hz, so they are working in their best range as well.
                              Short version: put a dedicated POWERED sub into your system, and EVERYTHING will sound better and work more efficiently! It's NOT just about "more bass"
                              (NOT the fish!)
                               
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