Started my leaf spring install........

[moparnation74]

I have never had an issue installing springs.....From new springs to rearched springs on over 10 cars.....

This is rather concerning to me. Especially for safety....

READ the service manual.....Did you pre torque the "eye" bolt to the front bracket? If you did that is a boo boo.......Did you install the eye bolt in the correct direction? The nut faces out and bolt head to the frame...That is a safety feature that most dont even think of. Furthermore, did you tighten the rear hanger prior to installing the springs. Thats another boo boo....The system has to be free to move and then torque after install.....

Place the front hanger bracket with the rear of the spring on the ground and screw the nuts on to support and allow play.....Then swing the rear up the spring and move the spring/hanger to slide it on.......

Be sure to jack the rear up into the frame hump....install the springs and lower the rear until the perches land in position. Still leave the jack under for support and install the u bolts....Then tighten everything down. Put on the wheels and lower car to the ground. Push on the rear of the car a few times to seat things a bit.....Then TORQUE too spec....Better have a long torque wrench for that front eye bolt......Drive around a few times and recheck everything....

 

[Officer Higgins]

Yea, now that I've had time to think about it, makes sense, should have had the springs stretched out instead of compressed.. I forgot to be smarter than what I was working on.

Here's a few more pics of the car before with its saggy bum, along with a measurement of current height, work in process pics and re-arched MP springs on their side.

View attachment 675410 View attachment 675411 View attachment 675412 View attachment 675413

beautiful car man !!!

 

[dadsbee]

What Justin said! My 16 year old nephew helped me put mine back in. Fronts attached, jack under pumpkin and back up in place. One thing for this thread.. I don't remember if I went back and torqued the front eye bolts, so thanks!

 

[threewood]

That's pretty much the procedure I used on mine except I had probably snugged up the U-bolts already. I did have to do a lot of shoving and prying to get the shackle bolts through the spring bushings to where I could get the nut on the bolt.

I tried it with the springs loose but that damned housing kept dancing around on the jack and tipping over. I think I mounted the front spring mounts, wheeled the housing over the springs and mounted the u bolts up before lifting the rear into position. Cuss words were definitely involved.

 

[Billccm]

Any updates?
I'm watching as I'm starting this job myself thanksgiving break.

 

[440beep]

Yep I had massive brain fade on this install and backed myself into corners too often all from not following the FSM. But finally, SUCCESS was had yesterday!! Car is back on the ground, just need to go back and torque everything now, and get washers for the lower shock mounts. Went with QA1 single adjustable shocks for the rear, and wow, sure is bouncy now, but it's still set as it was from factory which I think is 4 turns. Definitely need to stiffen it up a bit.

But once again this forum has proved invaluable and thanks everyone for all the help, advice, tips, (and also slaps to the back of my head), etc. Gained 2.25" of more lift. Pics before/after. And these are the best pics I can get currently as the motor has no rocker arms (installing Hughes').

 

[Billccm]

Got the job done. Took about 4 hours start to finish (including a break for leftover turkey sandwiches). I had a friend from work help me, who is a mechanical engineer. Two problems that slowed us down was the U Bolts and one shock mount.
U Bolts were not rusted at all, but would not budge with impact, or breaker bar. The nuts would pinch into the teeth of the threads and maybe move 1/32 of an inch at a time. We cut the u bolts off and moved on.
The swap itself after u bolts were off was straightforward and no real issues. We kind of pondered for awhile on the new shackle bushings as the outer diameter was much smaller than what I took off. I double checked the Mopar part numbers on Summitt, Mancini, Jegs and they all said correct for B Body 1966 -1971. We went ahead with assembly.
The second issue was resolved temporarily. The drivers rear shock mount hole on the cross member was slightly egged out. We purchased grade 8 bolts that were 1/4 inch longer, and 4 grade 8 washers. Contoured the two washers to fit in the cross member corner tightly, sandwiched two additional washer at the shock inside the cross member, and torqued the crap out of the bolt. Next month we will drop the gas tank and weld a washer, or he might fab a reinforcement plate. We are still discussing the best easy fix here (comments, please).
Test drive went well. No noises, rattles, etc and the ride is very good and stable (drove 10 miles 30-50MPH).
Ride height before was 23 1/4 on both sides (wheel center from floor to quarter lip), and now it is almost 1 inch higher on both sides. I assume it will settle some later. Slight rake is okay for me.
Thanks to my ever helpful B Body tech hotline (Threewood) for quick answers to a few questions today.
Take care.

 

[440beep]

Finally the weather was great this weekend to get the Bee out and work the new springs some more. Still getting some creaking from the rear shackles when going around corners and grease getting squeezed out the bolt holes so I'm assuming the rear shackles are still breaking/settling in? Or maybe its just the poly bushings being noisy? But I do like the rake now.

 

[Billccm]

I drove my road runner 25 miles or so Saturday. Height has settled down to about 3/4" higher than before replacement. No creak or odd sounds. I'm happy so far.

 

[Officer Higgins]

Sharp car!